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Unisaw (right tilt) Blade Height Question

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Forum topic by Shadowrider posted 02-15-2015 10:57 PM 1028 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shadowrider

183 posts in 676 days


02-15-2015 10:57 PM

How much is the blade supposed to clear the table when in it’s fully down position? Hopefully these pics will show it, but mine is only clearing the table by a tiny amount. These pics are in the full down position and I’m not seeing how one can cut a zero clearance insert in anything resembling a safe manner.

 photo IMG_0581_zps4a52d865.jpg

 photo IMG_0584_zps67a155af.jpg

Note: This is just a blade I threw on to check things out with until I get my full kerf 40T in.


13 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 02-15-2015 11:00 PM

That is how it is.. it just barely clears the top of the table when fully retracted. Easiest way to make a ZCI is to get a smaller blade (ie: a 7 1/4” circular saw blade), start the slot with it and then switch to your normal blade to finish up.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#2 posted 02-16-2015 03:52 AM

Are you sure there isn’t something blocking the elevator arbor? I’d check thoroughly the top of the blade should be below the underside of the table top. Even though most factory inserts have precut bottoms home mades wouldn’t set onto the tabs for a safe plunge.

-- I meant to do that!

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MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#3 posted 02-16-2015 05:22 AM


Are you sure there isn t something blocking the elevator arbor? I d check thoroughly the top of the blade should be below the underside of the table top. Even though most factory inserts have precut bottoms home mades wouldn t set onto the tabs for a safe plunge.

Re-read the OP’s post.. the blade does go below the table, but just a smidge.. all Unisaws I have ever used, including my own, are like that. The inserts for a Unisaw are 1/2” thick (which means they go 1/2” below the table top), so you can’t just plop one in and raise the blade. There isn’t enough room to do it that way, so you have to resort to other methods, such as using a smaller blade first. Another method as shown by Matthias over at woodgears.ca is to clamp the new insert on top of the old one and then raise the blade up through the new one.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 953 days


#4 posted 02-16-2015 05:40 AM

Mines the same. Do what he ^ said.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Shadowrider's profile

Shadowrider

183 posts in 676 days


#5 posted 02-16-2015 06:10 AM

Yes I’m sure that all is well in the trunnion. Not much can really be out of whack there without it being obvious. I just aquired this and it’s my 1st cabinet saw. Last one I used was some 35 years ago in high school. I’ve had the top off, gave everything a good cleaning, lube and replaced the arbor bearings. The internals are is great working order, I was just concerned that this saw may have had some shims removed from between the table and the cabinet. This saw has been used extensively in a vo-tech. I know there were no shims at all under the top when I removed it and I was thinking I may have to add some. Sounds like I don’t and from the research I’ve done there isn’t supposed to be any shims on the vast majority of these saws unless they are required for alignment of the mitre slot with the blade at 45.

Many thanks for the quick replies.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7224 posts in 2843 days


#6 posted 02-16-2015 11:21 AM

My Shop Fox isn’t much different, nor have most of the other saws I’ve had. As mentioned, a smaller diameter blade or router bit to get the cut started is your solution.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1188 days


#7 posted 02-16-2015 11:40 AM

With a brand new blade, mine’s just below the table as well. The blade I currently have installed has been sharpened a few times and the top of the blade tips are about 0.060” – 0.070” below the top of the table.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1960 days


#8 posted 02-16-2015 12:26 PM

Someone said it, start with a smaller blade.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#9 posted 02-16-2015 08:26 PM

I take it back I measured all my 10 and 12” blades today not sure if related to age manufacturer or how many times they’ve been sharpened to date. All my 10” are from 9 7/8 to 9 31/32. All of them are below the ground sides of the opening but above the insert seat.

-- I meant to do that!

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3025 posts in 1265 days


#10 posted 02-16-2015 08:31 PM

One of the advantages of the Leecraft ZCIs is that they have a groove cut in the bottom to allow the blade to fit in:

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Shadowrider's profile

Shadowrider

183 posts in 676 days


#11 posted 02-17-2015 06:24 AM



One of the advantages of the Leecraft ZCIs is that they have a groove cut in the bottom to allow the blade to fit in:

- CharlesA

I’ve been looking at those, they seem to be somewhat reasonably priced. Some time back I would have sworn I saw some in the $17 -$18 range, but I can’t find them now to save my life. I’m actually considering fixing up my old Crapsman bandsaw and getting a bench sander just to make my own inserts. $50 a pop is kind of frightening for as many as I think I’m going to want.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1960 days


#12 posted 02-17-2015 12:05 PM

If you need a lot of them, let me suggest something that might work better. Look at this from Infinity tools. I had a similar insert plate for my Unisaw and thought it was the cats meow. You can make you own filler strips . I just bought one for my current saw (sold the Uni a few months back with the insert) and they are extremely well made, plus they allow the use of the splitter, something that’s not always possible with a shop built one. Another possibility : I think Charles Neil offers one as well. Someone here can point you to him, I’m not that familiar with his stuff.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Shadowrider's profile

Shadowrider

183 posts in 676 days


#13 posted 02-18-2015 04:31 AM



If you need a lot of them, let me suggest something that might work better. Look at this from Infinity tools. I had a similar insert plate for my Unisaw and thought it was the cats meow. You can make you own filler strips . I just bought one for my current saw (sold the Uni a few months back with the insert) and they are extremely well made, plus they allow the use of the splitter, something that s not always possible with a shop built one. Another possibility : I think Charles Neil offers one as well. Someone here can point you to him, I m not that familiar with his stuff.

- Fred Hargis

Thanks for the info because I was looking at that one too. As long as a dado will clear those screws it should be good to go.

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