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Fault with Grizzly Jointer - Mag switch not engaging?

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Forum topic by mcg1990 posted 02-14-2015 04:07 PM 1571 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mcg1990

159 posts in 754 days


02-14-2015 04:07 PM

A few weeks ago I bought a used G0586 8” Jointer. I got the deal of the century, but the seller did warn that the magnetic switch was faulty, however he had – in box – the replacement Grizzly sent him.

I try getting that switch wired up but it won’t work at all. It’s the wrong switch. I get the new, correct switch, wire it in, and it still doesn’t work. When you press in the green power button you can hear that electrical kind of vvvrrrrrrrrrrr, but nothing happens. The same thing happened with the previous switch. However, if you hold in the button on the SDE (see below, it’s the black part in the centre of the white housing), the motor starts running so long as you hold it in. This was the case with the previous switch too. I only ever held it for a second or so as I didn’t want to damage anything.

But this time I tried holding it in for a little longer, and what I found was that after 3 seconds the magnetic coil does eventually engage and ‘suck in’ the button to keep the current flowing, which is what it’s supposed to do with the hit the power button. With the machine running I can use the Jointer to it’s full capacity, which is great, but I don’t like that I’m having to use this work around.

The Grizzly tech support has so far been utterly disappointing, so I’m posting here in the hopes that perhaps some of the electrically savvy among you may be able to help me out and inform me of any diagnostics I can run.

Thanks


19 replies so far

View mcase's profile

mcase

446 posts in 2591 days


#1 posted 02-15-2015 04:06 AM

It seems odd that three switches fail – Do I have that right? the original, the first replacement, and the second replacement, ALL malfunction? It leads me to think the problem may not be just the switch. Magnetic switches often have overload relays – if the motor draws more than its rating the relays stop power to the magnetic coil and “on” contact is broken stopping the motor. It may be possible that the motor is drawing so much on start-up that the overload relays are cutting power to the coil. Once the motor is running the draw may lower enough for the relays to power to the coil. I’m just guessing though. It just seems unlikely that three switches would fail and fail in the same way. You might have better luck if you ask this question on an electrical forum.

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mcg1990

159 posts in 754 days


#2 posted 02-15-2015 04:57 AM

Yes. I don’t know the circumstances that the first switch failed (it presumably ran fine for some time), and the second switch was not intended for this model so again it’s not possible to definitively know if it’s the same fault across all three/independent of all three.

Is the overload relay the part of the switch with the green dial (white in the above pic)? If so, I’ve tried changed it’s settings but nothing different happens. Thanks for your input though, and I have asked on another forum to see if they can help. I’ll contact Grizzly also with the new information on Tuesday if I haven’t solved it by then.

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MrUnix

4217 posts in 1661 days


#3 posted 02-15-2015 06:54 AM

Are you sure that switch can be used for single phase 110/220VAC?? It looks like a three phase switch since it has lugs for L1, L2 and L3. If it does work with either, maybe you have to wire it on specific lugs (like L1 and L3 for 110/220 or something like that). If it’s not the same as the original, I’d return it and ask for the same one as what was in there.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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exelectrician

2327 posts in 1889 days


#4 posted 02-15-2015 09:02 AM

On the coil there will be a voltage stamped either 115V or 220V using a voltmeter you have, measure the voltage at the coil, it should match the number stamped on the coil.

But using my intuition from the diagnostics that you have already performed. I would say you are applying 115V onto a 220V coil. Simply ask Grizzly for a 115V coil.
If they cannot help, read the nameplate of the switch, Google it and order the part from the distributor.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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mcg1990

159 posts in 754 days


#5 posted 02-15-2015 05:41 PM

This is the intended switch for the Jointer. It’s a 220v coil in a 220v switch for a 220v jointer on a circuit supplying 220v (tested).

I’m heading back down to the shop now to test a few more areas, and double check that none of the wires are frayed or split.

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exelectrician

2327 posts in 1889 days


#6 posted 02-15-2015 08:07 PM

You would get chattering of the contractor if the coil was a 380V and you supplied it with 220V, check that too.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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klassenl

170 posts in 2121 days


#7 posted 02-16-2015 03:40 AM

It would be helpful if you posted more pictures.

-- When questioned about using glue on a garbage bin I responded, "Wood working is about good technique and lots of glue........I have the glue part down."

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#8 posted 02-16-2015 04:05 PM

Sounds like a bad coil. Even if it’s new.

Edit: check resistance on the NC contact. May have issue there. Should be 0-1 ohm or so. Anymore than that and the added resistance may be an issue.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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descolada

52 posts in 1260 days


#9 posted 02-16-2015 05:21 PM

I actually hit this same problem last week for my Grizzly jointer/planer and was finally able to fix it last night. I had the same symptoms you did, but mine occurred after i opened up the machine to change the belts.

I’m almost 100% sure the problem was related to the emergency off button. I was able to fix my problem by turning it on with the switch’s override button with and then without the emergency button pressed. While doing that I heard that click coming from the switch and the machine ran normally.

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

2327 posts in 1889 days


#10 posted 02-16-2015 06:49 PM

I think TheFridge has a very valid point!

Check the contacts in the overload unit by blowing (3M air in a can) or 40PSI compressed air gently into any small holes while pushing the reset button repeatedly.

Note: do not use 120 PSI air on overload contacts they are small and can bend out of shape inside the housing permanently destroying the unit…major $$$ loss.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 754 days


#11 posted 02-17-2015 12:31 AM

I’ve currently got all my machinery pushed into the centre of the room while I put up and paint my walls. In a day or two I’ll run the checks suggested and get back to you.

Descada – what I’ve tried doing before is – while the machine is running having used the override – hit the stop button and immediately hit the On button to see if it will continue to run. It does not. As others have suggested, I think the issue is either due to too low voltage coming into the cool due to resistance in wires/connections, or due to a bad coil. Could you elaborate on how yours got working? I couldn’t tell what it is you did.

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descolada

52 posts in 1260 days


#12 posted 02-17-2015 02:43 AM

With mine, I left it run for a bit with the override button. Then I let the override go and engaged the emergency stop (not the “off” paddle). I then used the override button and let it run for a few seconds. I think this is where the problem was fixed, but not positive. Then, with the machine off I disengaged the emergency off (rotated it and let it pop out) and held the switch override again. At some point in the last two runs I heard a click coming from the mag switch and after that I just hit the “on” button and everything worked.

My situation may be a bit different, because I wasn’t hearing any electrical sound when I was hitting the on button previously. That may just be because of my hearing though…

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

17664 posts in 3138 days


#13 posted 02-17-2015 07:09 AM

Sounds like a low voltage issue trying to pull in the mag starter coil. Maybe bad contacts in start switch? Lose connection in the start circuit? That wold be in the 2 wires that connect to the start switch and are parallel with holding contact on the mag starter. Sound to me like both mag starters are probably good. good luck.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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TopamaxSurvivor

17664 posts in 3138 days


#14 posted 02-17-2015 08:36 PM

Just an after thought. Using a higher impedance meter rather than a digital meter should make finding this problem quite simple. I always used what is called a wiggins Even an older analog meter with a needle movement will be much better than a digital. They tell you things you are better off not knowing ;-))

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

2327 posts in 1889 days


#15 posted 02-18-2015 07:01 PM

Hey Topamax I still have my “wiggy” great T/S tool.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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