leveling extensions on R4511

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Forum topic by Cato posted 05-01-2009 10:09 PM 1667 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3313 days

05-01-2009 10:09 PM

I am assembling a Ridgid R4511 granite top table saw and put on the right wing extension and it was sagging, so I put 2 layers of masking tape underneath the threaded rods that bolt the wing to the main table. It still sags about 1/16th, and I am thinking of building another layer or two on top of the tape already on there.

The support rods that have allen screws for aligning to the seam on the table, inner one, and outer one for sagging are already screwed in pretty tight.

Anybody have any suggestions??

I was tired last night at the end of this assembly so I am going to pull the wing tonight and recheck with a fresh set of eyes on the problem. Definitely want to get table flatter than it is now before I mount the front and rear guide rails.

7 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3649 days

#1 posted 05-01-2009 10:45 PM

maybe some pictures here would help…

so you’re saying that the 4 allen set screws on the T-bars “assisting” bars are screwed all the way to the top already? and you still have the wing 1/16” under the table?

if thats the case, you could use shims (use cardboard, or paper – as the masking tape is too thin. another thing you can try is replacing those set screws with longer screws.

the important thing is that the 3 bolts and nuts that connect the wing to the table can be tightened up with the wing flush with the table. the 4 set screws are really only there to help you align the wing, they do not hold the wing’s weight (eventually), just help you keep it aligned while you tighten the 3 large nuts – those are going to be holding the wing in place. so feel free to shim as much as you need to as long as you can align the wing and table, and tighten it there in place.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3313 days

#2 posted 05-02-2009 12:37 PM

PurpLev- thanks for the help. I found out that one of the outer allen screws would only screw in part way and then had a thread issue. Rather than re tap, I switched it out and put it in the left extension which lined and leveled perfectly. With the right wing I used a short strip of lead tape, normally used for weighting golf clubs, under each thread bolt and that did the trick and now I am flat level. Hurray!!

Also thanks for your posting of your assembly experience, as it helped me immensely. I only have to install the splitter and guard assembly and then see what tweaking I need to do. Herculift U bolt needs some adjusting because I have to hand lock it when raising, so i am guessing it needs a centering tweak.

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3649 days

#3 posted 05-04-2009 04:14 PM

glad my posts could help.

once you have everything setup (things could take a bit of getting used to before you know their “right” settings for your needs) you’ll really appreciate this saw. it’s a really great piece of machine. make sure you get a good blade for it. there are numerous options out there, all are better than the factory supplied one.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View a1Jim's profile


117095 posts in 3578 days

#4 posted 05-04-2009 04:53 PM

Hope it goes together well

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3313 days

#5 posted 05-05-2009 04:10 PM

Think I got everything adjusted about where I want it and will probably apply some thread sealer to the allens under the extensions soon. My fence was just a little off of square, from front to back and that was easily adjusted with the allen screws on the back of the T bar, and I am quite pleased with how well the fence locks down. Splitter took a couple of minutes to get lined up, and fixed Herculift U bolt.

I use my table saw mostly for ripping and my radial arm saw for crosscuts. I will probably get a good 24T rip blade to put in the TS before long, and take out the Hitachi thin kerf combo that I have in it now.

View marcb's profile


768 posts in 3674 days

#6 posted 05-05-2009 07:10 PM

I highly recommend the Freud GLR blade for rip operations.

View klawman's profile


42 posts in 3048 days

#7 posted 01-31-2010 09:37 AM

Cato: I am still truing the R4511 I got a couple of weeks ago. The first time I set it up, I believe I got the wings pretty level, but I had to tear it part way down so as to remove the top. (I had to reem out some of the holes to which the top was bolted, in order to align the blade parallel to the mitre slots.) Now the wings droop. I was wondering how to shim it and its seems you and PurpLev are talking about shims in two different places; between the extension and the support bar(s) and between the edge of the table and the edge of the extension wing. I gather what ended up working for you was inserting the lead tape along the lower part of the edge of the top, where it interfaces with the edge of the wing. Yes?

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