LumberJocks

Awful noise halfway through table saw cut

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by mcg1990 posted 02-13-2015 03:20 AM 1141 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 757 days


02-13-2015 03:20 AM

I have a Craftsman 22124 (pic not mine), I bought it maybe a month ago from CL but new in box.

I used the stock blade for a while and it was fine but struggling when ripping thick stock, so I went and bought an Irwin 24T ripping blade for $20 from the local hardware store. It’s not the Cadillac of ripping blades, but I wanted a cheap one so I don’t have a lot invested in a blade for when I switch to a Freud thin kerf and accompanying thin kerf BORK.

Today I noticed the most horrific noise when using it, starting when about half of the blade is in contact with the wood. It’s horrendous. I haven’t knicked the blade and it’s teeth are sharp to the touch. It doesn’t char the edge of the wood, and it’s parallel to the fence. The blade doesn’t wobble when spinning at full speed but it does appear to when slowing down. Maybe it’s just an illusion due to the tooth pattern though.

I really don’t know what it could be, and it’s making me dread using it. It still feels somewhat underpowered (I’d seen and dreamt of beastly saws having boards glide through like butter, this is not that) but again it could be due to poor tuning. Other than that, what’s the chance of it being the blade itself? Tomorrow I’ll swap it out for the stock blade and see if there’s a difference, but seeing as I’ve written this much so far I’d appreciate hearing if anyone else has had this issue and how they fixed it.

Thanks


17 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#1 posted 02-13-2015 03:38 AM

Hard to tell without actually seeing (and hearing) what you are talking about.. but the ‘wobble’ when slowing down along with the noise makes me think it might be the arbor bearings. If you could post a video so others can see and hear what you are describing, that would be a big help.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2145 posts in 1638 days


#2 posted 02-13-2015 03:56 AM

Probably the belt slipping.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#3 posted 02-13-2015 04:18 AM


Probably the belt slipping.

Wow.. completely forgot about the belt.. those things have a poly-v and not multiple V’s.. sure sign of belt slippage would be the wonderful smell of burning rubber. Hope that’s it.. about the easiest thing to fix other than forgetting to plug it in the wall :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View splatman's profile

splatman

562 posts in 864 days


#4 posted 02-13-2015 04:43 AM

How about loose motor mounts?
Does the motor seem loose or rattle (when idle) when the saw is moved or shaken. Check the elevation system for looseness. Check the bolts and screws for tightness. Vibration is notorious for causing fasteners to work loose. Else, I do not know. Maybe the blade is of crummy quality.

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 687 days


#5 posted 02-13-2015 04:47 AM

Could even be the mounting washer and bolt, are they tight enough, is the washer facing correctly?

-- I meant to do that!

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2840 days


#6 posted 02-13-2015 10:31 AM

I’d check the belt first. It’d be great if you could have someone record it on video for you, then post it.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2840 days


#7 posted 02-13-2015 12:01 PM

p.s.: Check that the pulleys are tight too….these might have a double stacked set screw, meaning it’s possible to tighten the top one, and still have the pulley loose on the shaft if you don’t tight the bottom one too.

Also, make sure your BORK adjusted correctly, and not rubbing against the blade at all. I’d try eliminating some variables. If you don’t find anything with the pulleys or belt, remove the riving knife and see if the sound continues. Do you have a new ZCI in place? If so, it’s possible that blade flex is causing contact with the insert. Does the sound occur when running but not cutting? Does it occur with the blade removed?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View bold1's profile

bold1

262 posts in 1312 days


#8 posted 02-13-2015 03:17 PM

My Craftsman table developed a nasty noise soon after I got it. Turned out there was no key, from new, between the pulley and shaft. The pulley still made noise after I put a key in and aligned the belt, but a new pulley took care of that.

View agallant's profile

agallant

530 posts in 2351 days


#9 posted 02-13-2015 03:49 PM

I would start with the belt, inspect it. Unless it looks pretty much new I would change it out. They are cheep.

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 757 days


#10 posted 02-13-2015 11:43 PM

I’ve checked and tightened everything but it still has the issue. I did delve a little deeper into the troubleshooting though but trying out a few different cuts.

The noise starts once the stock reaches half-way across the blade, and seems to only be an issue if there is a lot of material to the left of the blade. I.e. Ripping stock down the center = noise, using left mitre slot to cross cut = noise, however using right mitre slot to cut stock and just shaving a small amount of the left end = no noise, ripping just a little off the stock (with stock obviously to the right of the blade) = no noise.

I’m starting to think it’s a bad blade. Perhaps it’s warped? I’m really not sure, so the next chance I get I’m going to swap out the blade for the one that came with the saw. I intended to do that today, but betwen wrestling with the magnetic switch on my new[to-me] jointer, playing with my new planer, and building a Valentine’s day gift I’ve been stuck for time..

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 687 days


#11 posted 02-14-2015 12:52 AM

And you’ve checked your fence parallel off the blade?

A fence with an abnormally large gap at the out feed end of the blade could cause the blades left side out feed to scrape the cut off big time.

-- I meant to do that!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#12 posted 02-14-2015 01:06 AM

If it persists with the miter gauge and not just the fence, wouldn’t be a fence issue.. sounds more like your table isn’t set parallel to the blade.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 757 days


#13 posted 02-26-2015 06:41 PM

Just wanted to let you all know that the source of the problem was found to be… the blade. Yep, as simple is that. It was a new Irwin Marathon 24t ripping blade. I noticed it looked like it was wobbling as it slowed down after being turned off, and found that once I replaced it with the stock blade all the problems disappeared. With no instruments could I detect any warping of the blade though.

Thanks everyone for your input.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1195 days


#14 posted 02-26-2015 07:00 PM

One bent tooth could be the problem. I had the same thing happen with one of my blades. It doesn’t take much, about .003-004”. Not readily detectable without instruments either. Put your bad blade back on, set your tri square at a mitre slot to one tooth. Mark it as tooth #1, and rotate your blade checking whether each tooth touches the end of the square, and repeat until you’ve checked all teeth. If one is off just that amount I indicated above, you will notice a tooth either touching the end of the square more than the other teeth, or not touching at all…. A bent blade will have several teeth touching.

Find a blade sharpener near you, and purchase an Amana blade. They cost a little more, but are made for cabinet shops, and are pretty good quality, instead of that crap from the big stores… ..... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2325 posts in 1761 days


#15 posted 02-26-2015 07:29 PM

I was gonna suggest a good blade. A 24 tooth is fine in a circular saw for demolition work and rough cuts but not much else.

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com