Starting with rough cut boards, now what?

what tools DO you have in your arsenal? I think that would help people asses what other techniques you could use to help you out based on what you have and can use.

in general, your idea is good- get 2 faces flat and parallel, then joint the edges (jointer/handplane/router/circular saw) – I would suggest AGAINST jointing the 1st edge with the table saw, as your rough lumber edges are NOT straight, and might cause the first rip to pinch against the blade = kickback + injuries (possibility, not saying it’ll happen – but better safe than sorry)
second edge (once you have 1 edge jointed) you can use the table saw, as you have one straight edge to reference against.

if you have a bandsaw/jigsaw you can cut your parts to rough size – this will give you less material you have to (hand?) plane, which will make it easier on you – so, if your drawer face is 2”x12” , find a part in the long rough board that will give you a 2×12 , and that has the least amount of cupping/twist in it. and cut (larger) that piece with a jigsaw/bandsaw – then you have a smaller piece that you can easily hand plane (and dont need to hand plane the entire board just for that part) it’ll also reduce the cupping on each individual piece you’ll be working with.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Purplev’s advice is right on…without a jointer that’s the best way. And, even though a bit more work you can get just as good results.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://web.me.com/deceiver6/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html

Kind of another almost related question. When stacking lumber to dry it is important that it be level and have drying sticks between that are the same thickness? HAAAAAAAAA i told ‘em so but they wouldn’t listen!!!!!

And thanks for the help PurpLev and Daniel!

You can find around many places and also on this site a jig to hold boards to get 1 straight edge and to then cut the other side.

And yes you need them flat first.

You can also do some rough to size cutting, maybe making them a little wide and a little long so you don’t need to take the curvature out of a long board when you really need shorter pieces. I also let the oversize pieces age for a which which lets them become acclimated to my shop so that I don’t cut them to final size and then have them warp.

I may make them about 1/8” wider than needed and 1/4 longer so that I can do a final trim after everything has stopped moving.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

PurpLev and Karson areiving you the straight skinny. Cutting the lumber close to size first is good advice even if you do have a jointer and a planer.

I have a 6 foot long straightedge attached to a piece of hardboard. One side lets me use a circular saw/60 tooth blade to cut sheet goods close to size with very little splintering on one side, the other is for the router. You could use a straightedge and a router to edge-joint a fairly flat board. You can even use a router free-hand, between two boards, to get a mated edge—IF you can set the boards up flat enough and stiff enough. Not the best, but I’m not that good with a hand plane.

-- Now, where did I put those bandaids?

I looks you have a pretty good arsenal of tools but lacking one of the most important. I agree with the comments above. In my world everything I make starts at the jointer or a #6 or 8 hand plane depending on the size of the material. If you use a hand plane, after jointing (using a hand plane) the edge & cutting your pieces to the approximate size you can speed things up flatten the face by tilting the blade to one side and work across the grain to remove as much material as you can taking the imperfections out of the face at a pretty good pace. Work the cupped side less material to remove. I picked up a good tip in a plane class with Rob Cosman, put the face of the board you are working on against your bench top put your fingers an the corners and see if you can rock the board. If so move the board in circles for a couple seconds and you will see a some polished areas develop. These will be the high spots. Nick this areas down and if you repeat the process a couple times it will be flat enough to run through your power planer. Put the face you worked on down and make a couple passes. Turn the board over and take hand plane marks out. I have done it this way before and it worked for me.

Good luck.

-- If you are not living on the edge you are taking up to much room.

Rough cutting to size will save you a ton of lumber. larger boards often have just enough cup to them that its impossible to get them to a normal build size like 3/4 if you surface them full length.

By cutting them as small as possible (I try to leave 3-4 inches in length and at least 1/2” in width) you distribute all that curve to small areas and you can normally get a good board out of it.

Purplev had a great hint with using the jigsaw for your rough cuts if you don’t have a bandsaw. I’ve done it on the table saw, but for safety sake it takes a lot of time using a jointing jig for the rips (a wide board with clamps to hold the board. The wide board rides the fence.

thanks for all the good advice guys! I just put new blades in the planer and i think they are dull already and i don’t have 3 40” x 10” or12” boards planed to 3/4” yet so i might be making a jointer jig for the TS very soon!

BLUCHZ, I am not sure what area you are in, and what kind of money you may have available, but I would definitely look into buying a jointer, it will save a lot of time, and wood. To that end, check out craigslist, as I have purchased a Grizzly Jointer and a Grizzly tablesaw that way, both in great shape and at great prices. ...just a thought.

i got some 12’ lumber ( rough ) years ago and needed them straight on 1 edge .
the guy went to the tablesaw and took a 16’ straight 1×6 they used ,
and set the fence over to acomodate the 1×6 and the width of my board .
with mi board crown edge out in saw path then holding both to fence ,
pushed them together through saw . 1 straight edge !
make sure to not let 1 ride over/under the other , as it moves the cut
and can bind .
i have used this in the field many times since , with various lenght boards .
also can clamp a straight board or edge and run a flush trim bit along it
to replicate straight on your board , then use that edge to saw fence and rip your board.
be safe

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart