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Metal Band Saw

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Forum topic by Barto posted 212 days ago 456 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Barto

23 posts in 213 days


212 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tools bandsaw

Hi,

Just a quick q’ from a newbie… Can you use a metal band saw for wood working?

Like the one on trademe (New Zealand’s own eBay): Metal band saw

Thanks!

-- Bart, Waimauku NZ

View Skarp's profile

Skarp

180 posts in 224 days


212 days ago

Well, with a blade designed for cutting wood, technically yes. However I wouldn’t want to, as they are designed with different goals in mind and if the saw was used for metal cutting then you’d be dealing with metal shavings and oil and such getting on the wood. I’d really look for a woodworking band saw with a nice table, miter slot and fence. Also not sure if they make wood blades for any given size of metal saw.

-- Ooo, er.

View lew's profile

lew

4501 posts in 653 days


212 days ago

Skarp is right about the blade but also the saw you referenced is strictly for cutting something to length. You would be missing out on some of the real advantages of a “regular” band saw such as resawing, cutting curves etc.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

2762 posts in 546 days


212 days ago

like lew said – horizontal metal cutting bandsaws are designed to cross-cut metal pipes to length, whereas the real strength of a woodworking bandsaw is it’s ability to rip to width… like when resawing, or ripping rough lumber safely.

more things that a woodworking bandsaw (vertical) incorporates are the fact that there is a table perpendicular to the blade which allows intricate cuts – curves, joinery, etc.

so, to answer you question – no, this type of metal bandsaw wouldn’t work for woodworking.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View daltxguy's profile

daltxguy

565 posts in 812 days


212 days ago

The price is right but the machine is wrong for woodworking. In its present form, it’s designed only to cut a straight line in metal and very slowly using liquid to wash the swarf. You have to get rid of the liquid flow, speed up the drop to a much faster rate and then…maybe. But you can cut straight lines in wood already and faster and more accurately with other much more versatile tools like a table saw or even a jigsaw.

yes, you could use it to cut wood, but its use would be very limited. If you can take it apart, sit it upright and add a table, change the blade to a wood cutting blade ( plenty of shops here will weld up a custom length blade – topmaq for example ) then you might have a tool worth using for woodworking.

Personally, I’d pass on it and look for a woodworking ( or even something like a butcher’s bandsaw) model which has all those features already.

-- Steve, New Zealand, www.steveracz.com

View marcb's profile

marcb

705 posts in 571 days


212 days ago

a wood working bandsaw is worth its weight in gold when ripping rough lumber like Purplev mentioned. Makes it dead easy to use wide boards to make small parts with out all the jointing or fear of kick back.

I pent about 4 hours this week doing just that, last project I used rough lumber on I didn’t have the bandsaw, it has now paid for itself not even mentioning all the resaw and curve work I’ve used it for.

View Barto's profile

Barto

23 posts in 213 days


211 days ago

Cool, thanks! makes sense

-- Bart, Waimauku NZ

View moshel's profile

moshel

479 posts in 581 days


181 days ago

Sorry for adding to this so late….
I agree with everyone else here – Metal bandsaws are not suitable for wood. Here in NZ, I think that the best thing for you would be to look for an old dyco, tanner or logan (I have logan). They are heavy cast iron and were designed to last. try to find something next to you that you can pickup, as shipping costs will be very dear.
another advice – go for 14” and not 10”. I find that the tool that I use THO MOST in my workshop now is the bandsaw. I have no Idea why some people say its the last tool you should get. 10” saw would limit what you can do greatly.

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

View stefang's profile

stefang

1655 posts in 232 days


177 days ago

The big gap between the teeth on a bandsaw blade is essential for clearing sawdust out of the curve as it cuts, In general wider gaps (less teeth per inch) are better for most uses including re-sawing. Finer toothed blades are useful for doing scroll type work or other work where you need a fine cut and/or it would be difficult to sand

-- Mike, American in Norway

View Barto's profile

Barto

23 posts in 213 days


177 days ago

Listened to all the advise! Couldn’t really come up with an excuse to spend NZ$800+ on a tool I’ve never used before so bought a ‘desktop’ model on trademe (NZ’s eBay) for $65 (about 40 US) – and I love it! Will probably replace it with something more serious at some stage.

Understand what you’re saying Stefang! The small bandsaw I bought is excellent for scrolling, resawing was less successfull!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Building-renovation/Tools/Power-tools/Saws/photos/a-215532551/p-92481755.htm

-- Bart, Waimauku NZ

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