"How strong is your glue?"

Yeah, I”ve used Gorilla glue in setting up the kitchen, I did some seamless miters around the countertops… but now, It’s waterproof titebond for everything. I’ve got to say, I”ve been very happy using it, and now after reading said article… I’ve got great piece of mind as well.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Vincent Van Gogh -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

I have been pro Gorilla glue for handy man repairs. I have fixed aluminum window screens with it. My bathroom door hinges where stripped out with Gorilla glue and duct tape to the rescue. When it comes to initial assembly of wood projects I like the Titebond series.

My rule of thumb is :
If it fits use regular wood glues .
If it doesn’t fit use urethanes.
If it’s at all punky use Epoxy.

bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

I’m also a Titebond fan for almost everything.

-- Bruce from Central New York

I use Titebond also, but for some of my projects with glass I’ve been using Elmers ultimate polyurethane glue for attaching wood to glass. Anybody else use this glue? opinion? Any other wood-on-glass glue you would recommend?

-- mike, wisconsin, www.whatwooddo.com

Mike, does the Elmer’s poly glue foam like Gorilla glue? I think the air bubbles are its biggest weakness, plus it tends to foam out of the joint creating a cleanup mess.

Bob, FWW mag tested tight, perfect and loose joints with the 5 glues given. Gorilla didn’t hold up. Are there any other type “urethane” glues with a stronger bond?

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

Yes Dadoo, the Elmers does foam. I’ve learned to use less to cut down on the cleanup. I trust the strength in places where the glass fits into a same-size groove that I’ve cut, but I have a couple of pieces where I’ve glued glass shelves flat on top of smaller wood blocks. They seem tight and sturdy, but I am nervous about the long term and selling it to a customer, so I’m staying away from designs like that in the future.

-- mike, wisconsin, www.whatwooddo.com

I use the elmers polyurethane,if i glue up pieces for carving.its not noticable after staining or painting{and its cheaper}

-- Robert, mountainwoodcarving@netzero.net

Titebond III is my main glue for clean wood with a good joint. I HAVE used polyurethane in repairs where I had a torn-up joint that I couldn’t restore properly (old church pews with bad joints to begin with, for example). The gap-filling qualities can come in handy if strength isn’t a primary concern, & I haven’t noticed any real difference between the major brands. I think Dadoo is right about the bubbles being the Achilles heel of these glues.

Epoxy is great stuff, but sometimes it’s hard to get in place, like on the aforementioned pews.

-- Robert from Raymond, MS. "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence is therefore not a practice, but a habit." - Aristotle

I use Gorilla Glue, Titebond III and liquid hide glue, dependent on fit, need for strength and complexity of glue up. Gorilla Glue wins for me especially with lamination, as the PVAs tend to swell thin sheets shop-made veneer.

What I would really like to know is, does anyone here use that Titebond HiPurformer hot reactive PU glue gun? I have itched for one for several years, but have held off for a number of reasons, cost being one of them. I think that stuff might not foam.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I use Gorilla glue on the barrels that are inserted into wood blanks for pen turning. The glue expands to make a tight bond with the metal barrels to the wood blank and fills in the gap. The barrels never slip when turning the blanks. For wood projects that have close tolerance, I use Titebond III.

-- WeeWilly