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Forum topic by Derek Lyons posted 04-22-2009 10:38 PM 1033 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Derek Lyons

584 posts in 2315 days


04-22-2009 10:38 PM

1) What kind of paste wax do you recommend for the jointer?

2) What side of the rough stock do you start jointing with? Common sense suggests the widest, as that gives you the best contact with the fence for the next side.

3) If the piece being milled is stable enough (I.E. it won’t tip), could you just run the fourth side through the planer rather than face jointing on the tablesaw?

Thanks!

-- Derek, Bremerton WA --


6 replies so far

View eddy's profile

eddy

931 posts in 2111 days


#1 posted 04-22-2009 11:07 PM

#1johnson paste wax #2set the board on a flat surface what ever side is cupped goes down. i have always had good luck starting with the edge and then jointing 1 face white chalk lines drawn on the board helps a lot #3 you need 1 flat surface to start with to register on the bed of the planer or all you will get is the same shaped board (cupped/bowed) only thinner. as the rollers will push the wood flat when it goes Thur the planer
but what ever cup/bow that was there you were trying to get out will pop write back into shape
hope this helps also ck here/u-tube and other places i have seen a lot of good videos people have posted on this subject

-- self proclaimed copycat

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2568 days


#2 posted 04-23-2009 02:03 AM

Here is part 1 of a pretty good 2 part video that was produced by Keith Cruickshank that deals with the steps involved in dimensioning rough lumber. It should answer most of the questions that you have asked.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View JasonIndy's profile

JasonIndy

186 posts in 2182 days


#3 posted 04-23-2009 05:27 AM

All things being equal it doesn’t hurt to cut with the grain too. Like Eddy said whichever way the board will lay the most stable is the side you want down. If you’ve got a grain reversal or can’t tell which way is which it doesn’t hurt to do a pass both ways to see which tears out the least.

View angelis's profile

angelis

54 posts in 2655 days


#4 posted 04-23-2009 04:48 PM

I have been using “Slideez™” from Behlen. Great product, no silicone. I picked it up in a Woodcraft Store.

View feinstein_cabinets's profile

feinstein_cabinets

8 posts in 2132 days


#5 posted 04-23-2009 04:53 PM

use any paste wax that is used for floors. a lot of people use car paste wax which is good too but floor wax drys to a harder consistancy.

flat side down when jointing

-- Let there be sawdust

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2395 days


#6 posted 04-23-2009 05:01 PM

Johnson’s Paste wax $5 anywhere.

School of thought goes ‘FEE’ : Faces , Edges, Ends.

joint one face, (you don’t really need to have a straight ‘jointed’ edge against the fence for this one- also, it’s hard to keep a thin edge against the fence while jointing a face).

plane the opposing face

now that you have a parallel board. joint one edge on the jointer.

you could I guess plane the last edge on the planer, but since usually you’ll be milling ~6-~8 (depenging on jointer capacity) boards, it’s easier to get the last edge on the table saw.

if you’re milling a 2”x2” board, you could prob. do it on the planer as well. but that might require several passes, whereas on the table saw you only need 1.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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