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What do you use for adjustable workbench feet?

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Forum topic by Dan658 posted 02-05-2015 10:06 PM 3703 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dan658

93 posts in 729 days


02-05-2015 10:06 PM

I’m planning on building a new workbench soon and I’ve decided to do adjustable feet since my basement isn’t very flat and I want to make sure it is exactly the same height as my table saw. The standard home center ones seem too weak, so what have you come up with? Did you make some or buy heavy duty feet?

This is all I’ve found so far. It seems simple and sturdy.


13 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2143 posts in 1632 days


#1 posted 02-05-2015 10:08 PM

I just use a wede shaped piece of wood shoved under one or two legs.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

610 posts in 1020 days


#2 posted 02-05-2015 10:27 PM

That’s a good idea using the bolts. You can add a second nut to lock the bolt to keep it tight at the adjusted height.

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1177 days


#3 posted 02-05-2015 11:58 PM

I bought some heavy duty feet at my local hardware store.
They have a 2 1/2” wide base to them.
I think they were about $3 each or it may have been 2 for $3.
Ace Hardware or a big True Valye store.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#4 posted 02-06-2015 12:37 AM

3/8” all thread, with one nut set in like you have it and another to lock it.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View NoThanks's profile

NoThanks

798 posts in 988 days


#5 posted 02-06-2015 03:15 PM

I use the bracket with the threaded hole for the bolt.
Just drill a hole into the bottom of the leg for the bolt to go into.
I could have put a lock nut on it, but it doesn’t move.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View mtnwalton's profile

mtnwalton

13 posts in 486 days


#6 posted 08-08-2015 01:04 AM

I’m using Kreg double lock casters with 1/2” adjusting bolts on a multi purpose table I’m building. So far they look like they’ll work great. I’m a big believer in everything mobile.

View CharleyL's profile

CharleyL

196 posts in 2824 days


#7 posted 08-08-2015 02:36 AM

I use pinball machine feet. They are available from The Pinball Resource www.pbresource.com for less than $1.00 each. They are a very well made coaster type foot that handles an uneven floor well with a 5/16 or 3/8 bolt about 2 1/2” long to thread into the bottom of the leg. A standard hex nut can be used for locking them at any length. A T nut or most any kind of threaded insert of the correct size in the bottom of the leg will accept them.
Each foot will handle about 500 lb.

Charley

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#8 posted 08-08-2015 12:30 PM

Similar to what you did but the bolt went through the board and i have a cinching nut on the other side of the board.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View CharleyL's profile

CharleyL

196 posts in 2824 days


#9 posted 08-08-2015 01:20 PM

Sarah,

What more can I add? Look at the feet on a pinball machine. Then imagine putting it on a wooden leg. You need to drill a clearance hole up into the leg, then install a threaded insert. There are only 2 bolt sizes of these 3/8 and 5/16. You choose which size you want when you get to order them. The pad part is the same size (from memory) about 1 3/4 diameter and only the bolt size is different. To install the foot, add a hex nut to the threaded part of the foot and run it all the way down to the foot by hand. Then the foot, with the nut already screwed on, gets threaded up into the insert in the bottom end of the leg. The excess length of the bolt is why you need the deep clearance hole. Screw the foot in until it is about 3/4” from the bottom of the thread and the hex nut. Install the rest of the feet in their legs the same way. Then place the table, machine, or whatever in it’s final position. Put a level on the top of the machine or table and then unscrew the feet until all feet sit firmly on the floor and the level shows that the top is level in all directions. Then use a wrench to turn the hex nuts up to the insert in the bottom of the legs and tighten them to lock the foot at that height setting. Done.

If you ever move the machine/bench/table to a new position, do the same leveling and adjustment steps again.

I’ve used these feet on my scroll saws, my Unisaw out feed table, my work benches, etc. None have ever failed. A cheap and very workable solution.

Charley

View KayBee's profile

KayBee

1083 posts in 2706 days


#10 posted 08-08-2015 06:48 PM

I’m using hockey pucks and bolts for leveling feet. Not done yet, but this is what they will look like.

-- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way

View jedc43's profile

jedc43

1 post in 3259 days


#11 posted 08-28-2015 07:34 PM



I m using hockey pucks and bolts for leveling feet. Not done yet, but this is what they will look like.
Thats a awesome idea… but I think it would work alot better with Bruins Pucks… :)

- KayBee


View Murdock's profile

Murdock

118 posts in 1943 days


#12 posted 08-28-2015 07:48 PM

I used these for two benches

http://www.rockler.com/combination-leg-equalizer

I did replace the mounting plates with heavier duty t-nuts that I purchased at a hardware store.

Obviously not as thick as the ones shown above using the bolts, but I haven’t had any issues. Both benches are Fir legs with a double thickness of 3/4” plywood for tops. 6’ long, not sure how much they weigh, but I do have the shelf loaded down with tools.

I do like the hockey puck idea though

-- "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." - Albert Einstein

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3926 posts in 2703 days


#13 posted 08-28-2015 09:52 PM

Put a large fender washer between the nut and the wood leg.

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