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Got lucky on an 8" Grizzly Jointer. Any tips for a first time user?

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Forum topic by mcg1990 posted 02-05-2015 03:58 AM 1277 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mcg1990

159 posts in 756 days


02-05-2015 03:58 AM

Seems perseverance and patience really pays off. After getting a NIB Craftsman 22124 for $440 I was on the hunt for both a Jointer and Planer. I missed a couple of good 6” Jointers for $250 and was about to jump on a 6” Grizzly for $400, ‘til I found this:

For $300. So now it’s mine.

It was 3 hours away and is missing the dust vent and blade guard, but I just ordered those from Grizzly with $25. And I’ve got to wire up a new switch assembly for it (seller included the new one Grizzly sent him), but I should have running tomorrow morning. The whole unit is in great condition overall, with only minor stains on the steel.

3 of us managed to lift it into my truck which was absolutely incredible. We put a scrap of plywood on my F150’s trailer gate and lined up the jointer perpendicular to the back of the truck. We then all grabbed onto the outfeed table and lifted it into the air, with the infeed table on the plywood scrap. Once we got it high enough the base could be pushed onto the gate and slid up the bed.

I’ve seen people here fret about how to transport them – laying down, base detatched etc – I’ll tell you that I had the unit standing up with 4 ratchet straps around it. One strap went over each in/outfeed table, and the remaining two wrapped around the top of the base. It didn’t budge even the tiniest bit.

Getting it off the truck and into my shop was more dramatic. Long story short, we needed a second fork lift to get the first one out of the grass-turned-mud, and I had to buy my neighbour a bottle of Wild Turkey to say sorry for the ruts.

Back to the jointer though:
Can anyone suggest little things I should check/clean before I get going? I’ve noticed the wheel for the infeed table adjustment is pretty tough, but then again it is lifting an awful lot of weight so perhaps it’s meant to be. When I get it switched on I’ll report back after some test runs and perhaps you guys can let me know if everything is running as it should.


15 replies so far

View unbob's profile

unbob

718 posts in 1367 days


#1 posted 02-05-2015 04:44 AM

Congrats on that, I have a similar model. Its a good machine. Mine was stiff in table movements, I had to clean and re-lube the table ways. As always check the knives before switching on.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1773 days


#2 posted 02-05-2015 06:00 AM

Clean it up if need be. Wax the tables and fence with something like Johnson’s past wax. Check for anything that might be lose. Make some test cuts. If it makes straight flat square stock good. DON’T FIX IT IF IT AIN’T BROKE!

If it doesn’t cut the way a jointer should check the knives for sharpness. A perfectly tuned jointer and cut weird if the knives are dull. So if it doesn’t cut the way it should the first thing is to make sure the knives are sharp and adjusted to the out-feed table before messing with other stuff.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#3 posted 02-05-2015 07:21 AM

I have that jointer. Bought it new, right around the time Grizzly stopped selling them. Good value, particularly as it has a fairly long bed.

Jointers are dead.simple. Make sure the tables are aligned properly to each other and then set the out feed height and check the knives.

My infeed adjustment works fairly smoothly, so yours should too. You are loosening the lock screw on the front before adjusting, right? There may be debris or a bit of rust in the ways. While the ideal option would be to completely remove the infeed table and clean the ways, you can accomplish a lot by fully lowering the infeed and cleaning what you can access.

Another thing to check is the pully alignment and belt tightness. It can be difficult to get the pulleys aligned perfectly, which causes excess belt wear. And on spin-down, the jointer should not rattle whe n it nears stopping. If it does, the belt is too loose.

The motor can be wired for 240 or 120. The switch mounted on the high arm indicates it is configured for 240. If you need to run it on 120, you will have to acquire the 120 switch, which gets mounted to the base. It runs considerably better on 240.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View paxorion's profile

paxorion

1102 posts in 1509 days


#4 posted 02-05-2015 04:35 PM

This is the one I use at my makerspace, a great jointer.

-- paxorion

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4169 posts in 3206 days


#5 posted 02-05-2015 05:11 PM

Make sure the tables are coplaner.

Raise both the infeed and outfeed tables above the cutter (rotate the cutterhead so a blade isn’t in the way)

raise whichever table is low, and make sure that a long straight-edge touches all the way accross.

If you have a ‘sagging’ table, you will struggle to get things flat

If one is sagging, you can usually get it straight by adjusting the dovetail ways.

Some will to and check that the tables are flat/coplaner on the diagonal as well, but that is more for a Parallelogram jointer.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3940 posts in 1957 days


#6 posted 02-05-2015 07:22 PM

Don’t make a habit out of lifting it by the tables…after all, that is the alignment that is most critical to having it be useful. You got a real steal on that, and it should serve you well. Congrats.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 756 days


#7 posted 02-05-2015 11:25 PM

Well, it’s not all good news. The previous owner had an issue with the magnetic switch/starter, but gave me the replacement that Grizzly had sent him. I connect it all up, press ‘Go’ and nothing. The machine will run when I hold in a button inside but otherwise does not.

Grizzly tech support are polite and helpful, but it’s not possible to reach the same person with separate phone calls so I had to re-explain my issues each time I called back after running a test of some kind, and eventually I was asked to send photos which goes to the separate email team so now I must wait to hear from them. One tech narrowed it down to either being a bad switch or that the jointer isn’t being supplied enough voltage. My multi meter ruled that one out.

Also something strange is that there is 15 volts running through the planer tables themselves. I’m not well read on electrical stuff, but I’m guessing that there is incorrect wiring somewhere and current is travelling up the Ground which is supposed to carry current away from the machine. My wiring is 100% correct to the diagram, however the switch they sent me has extra components not shown in the diagram in the manual, and it has extra cables that came pre-wired that, again, don’t match with the diagram. Hopefully it’s a matter of switching a couple over after a short email exchange. SIGH. This is why you save money buying used, I suppose..

View Picklehead's profile

Picklehead

1016 posts in 1393 days


#8 posted 02-06-2015 01:37 AM

Congrats! Now I must do my duty and inform you that YOU SUCK!!! I can’t believe my fellow LJs have failed in their duty to inform you of this. enjoy, and if you see another one of these for that price just pick it up for me and I’ll pay you back!

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#9 posted 02-06-2015 05:53 AM

Have you checked your wiring for a ground fault? Shut the circuit off at the breaker and check for continuity between ground and both hots.

And do that both with the jointer connected not connected…

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3940 posts in 1957 days


#10 posted 02-06-2015 12:05 PM

The fact that the motor runs when you hold the button in sure makes the switch a likely culprit, and I see it as good news. It will just take some diagnosis to track it down. If it were me, I would try just wiring a plug to the motor, and then plug it in to see if everything works. But keep us posted on whatever you do and the outcome.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1399 days


#11 posted 02-06-2015 01:09 PM

Not an electrical guy… can’t help you there.

As far as tune up, my advice is get a link belt and if it runs smoothly after that, leave it be as Alaska guy said. I tried to tune up my first jointer and made it worse. If it cuts well, don’t screw with the alignment.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 756 days


#12 posted 02-06-2015 11:24 PM

@Mark Kornell – How can I go about checking that? I’m armed with a multimeter are no knowledge with which to use it! What are the key locations to test?

@Picklehead – I searched ‘Jointer’ on Craigslist and a result showed up with a picture of furniture and the title had no mention of the word ‘Jointer.’ I clicked it out of curiosity thinking that he must have used that word somewhere in the ad, and sure enough the very last photo was this beaut! I am mad though.. Last night I was looking for a Dewalt 735 and Home Depot had the 735X (planer + knives + tables, usually $650) for $525. It was clearly a mistake as the model without the attachments was higher. I put off buying it thinking I’d go to Lowes and get them to do the price match -10% on it, but alas, I got too greedy and by the morning Home Depot had corrected their error. Man, I am so unlucky!! ;)

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#13 posted 02-07-2015 02:07 AM

@mcg – I’m assuming your jointer is plugged in to a receptacle, as opposed to direct wired. Shut the breaker off and check the resistance at the outlet between the neutral and each of the hots at the plug. While you’re at it, check the reading between the hots, too. You should not get a reading, which indicates the wires are isolated as they should be. If you see a resistance number (or even 0), something is acting as a bridge between the wires. This is bad. Leave the circuit off and call an electrician.

TURN THE CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU DO THIS KIND OF CHECK!!!
More likely that it is the switch. But a circuit check is simple with a multimeter.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF FIRST.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 756 days


#14 posted 02-07-2015 05:07 AM

Mark,

Yes it’s plugged into a receptacle. I did as you said and can report zero volts between any pins while the breaker is off.

Something odd, that suggests an issue with the switch, is that while I have 240v showing between my hots leading into the switch, it reports zero volts between my two hots going to the motor from the other end of the switch. I’m really, really hoping that it’s just an issue with the part of wiring that was already done on the switch before I received it.

I will say this, whereas Grizzly customer service has been great (given me free shipping on a pushstick after I forgot to add the second one I needed to the cart), Grizzly tech support has been less than impressive. The phone guys have no access to email and the email guys have no access to the phone. It’s impossible to speak to the same phone guy twice (unless by chance) and it’s now been 36 hours since I emailed photos and I’ve had no reply. What I need is someone who can TALK to me but also receive photos that I send, but Grizzly have made sure that it isn’t possible. Yeah, ok, I wasn’t the guy who bought the machine but the previous owner did, and if it wasn’t me calling up needing help it’d be him.

Anyway. Rant over. I’m just ready to get her going.

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#15 posted 02-08-2015 06:32 AM

MCG: check for ohms, not volts. With the breaker off..

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

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