LumberJocks

Grizzly Bandsaw G0555

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Garbanzolasvegas posted 02-05-2015 02:27 AM 936 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


02-05-2015 02:27 AM

Got my new Grizzly G0555 bandsaw today. Was very excited about it. Seems solid, well built! fit and finish are good. Screwed it all together cut a few things, seems good. I was even surprised it came with a Cast iron table.

First issue. You CAN NOT adjust the lower Blade bearing without taking off the Table. So if you have dialed everything in but have to switch bales you have to remove the table to gain access to the lower guide adjustment. This seems crazy on a seeming well engineered machine

The lowers can not be accessed unless you take the table off!

WTF?

I might ad assembly of this monster usually is a two man job. The main saw is almost 200 pounds. Of course me going to the gym everyday flipped it right up there, but it isa two man job… Or a pulley block and tackle thing. She’s a heavy Bitch

That reminds me….

I have to call my chiropractor first thing tomorrow

-- If you don't Play, you can't win


22 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

6576 posts in 1617 days


#1 posted 02-05-2015 03:04 AM

I can adjust mine just fine without removing the table. Try it with different hex keys or a T-handled one. That’s what I use.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1743 days


#2 posted 02-05-2015 03:20 AM



I can adjust mine just fine without removing the table. Try it with different hex keys or a T-handled one. That s what I use.

- jmartel


v
Ditto with mine….No need to remove the table….

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#3 posted 02-05-2015 04:23 AM

I am sorry there seems to be no way to CLOSE the lower side bearings anywhere close to the blade on this saw. They seem to be set like an 8th of an inch away from the blade. They are nothing like the upper guides.

Any help?

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

6576 posts in 1617 days


#4 posted 02-05-2015 04:25 AM

It’s the exact same mechanism as the upper guides on mine.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1743 days


#5 posted 02-05-2015 11:46 AM



I am sorry there seems to be no way to CLOSE the lower side bearings anywhere close to the blade on this saw. They seem to be set like an 8th of an inch away from the blade. They are nothing like the upper guides.

Any help?

- Garbanzolasvegas


v
v
I think I may know what is going on. I pasted a photo from the owners manual of the UPPER assembly below to help explain a solution…...Each of the guide bearings are attached to a shaft that is eccentric… The issue may be that at the factory they assembled the Guide Bearings in the “UP” position…... Loosen Locking Cap Screw a fair amount, but not too much…...Then use the hex wrench and insert it into the left Guide Bearing Cap Screw and turn counterclockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…...Then use the hex wrench on the right Guide Bearing Cap Screw and rotate clockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…....By doing this this will lower both bearings against the blade and give clearance to adjust without removing the table in the future…...Once both bearings are lowered, then tighten the Locking Cap Screw until snug, then you will be able to fine turn the left and right bearing until they are perfect. Then tighten down the Locking Cap Screw. You may need two wrenches to prevent the bearings from moving. Insert one wrench into the bearing screw to hold it’s position, then use the other to tighten the Locking Cap Screw…..
v
v

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View jshroyer's profile

jshroyer

80 posts in 1125 days


#6 posted 02-05-2015 01:20 PM

This is the first time i have seen someone complain about how heavy a tool is. usually i would choose a tool because it is heavier so it has less vibrations.

-- http://semiww.org/

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2417 posts in 2389 days


#7 posted 02-05-2015 03:20 PM

Two men to set up this saw is a good idea but I did not have that option. I assembled the saw, with riser onto the stand with it all laying on the floor. I then grunted it upright. Although this was a few years ago when I was younger (seventy) I always take the cast iron table off of this saw when adjusting blade guides. It requires the removal of two plastic knobs, no big deal. I like this saw and use it mostly for re-sawing 6” & 8” maple oak and cedar.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#8 posted 02-05-2015 05:41 PM

Tell you what!!! You figure out how one can get their fingers and/or a tOOL in there and adjust the LOWER Bearings with out taking off the table and I will buy you a Caribbean Cruise for you and all your family!

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#9 posted 02-05-2015 05:42 PM



This is the first time i have seen someone complain about how heavy a tool is. usually i would choose a tool because it is heavier so it has less vibrations.

- jshroyer

It wasn’t a complaint, it was on observation and or a statement.

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#10 posted 02-05-2015 05:46 PM

ALSO there is NO way to move the lower bearings close to the blade like the upper ones. Am I missing something?

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

6576 posts in 1617 days


#11 posted 02-05-2015 05:51 PM

I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View Garbanzolasvegas's profile

Garbanzolasvegas

356 posts in 694 days


#12 posted 02-05-2015 05:58 PM



I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.

DAmn I need a video cam!

- jmartel

Yes I under stand but there is no way to get fingers in there without take the table off. PLUS there doesn’t seem to be any way to MOVE the lower bears farther or close to the blade.

If one uses a 4mm allen wrench to CAM the lowers closer or farther to the blade the bolt simply loosen the bearing

-- If you don't Play, you can't win

View RobS888's profile (online now)

RobS888

1986 posts in 1312 days


#13 posted 02-05-2015 06:17 PM

Rich,

Are you loosening all three bolts?

The wing nut and the knurl adjust distance front to back as mentioned.

The allen bolts adjust lateral position against the blade. One has to loosen the bolt on the side then one can camber the bearings by rotating the bolt in the center of the bearing. The bearing should move with the bolt, since you are also moving its mount.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View CypressAndPine's profile

CypressAndPine

62 posts in 1274 days


#14 posted 02-05-2015 06:33 PM

I see what you are talking about not being able to extend the bearing out any further. Something appears to not be lined up correctly. This is probably why you can’t get your fingers in there also. The shaft that the bearing is on shouldn’t be extended all the way out like that. It looks like you are at the end of your stroke and still not close enough to the blade.

Is your blade centered on the wheels?

Are you 100% positive the table is mounted correctly?

I recommend that you remove the table again and check if there is any way to adjust/move the entire blade guide assembly closer to the blade. Something is not right here. Hopefully it is a simple fix.

-- Cypress Jake, New Orleans

View wbrisett's profile

wbrisett

201 posts in 1815 days


#15 posted 02-05-2015 06:34 PM

A while back somebody in a thread recommended watching Alex Snodgrass’ clinic on bandsaws:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

After watching that video and then tuning my Grizzly bandsaw using those techniques, I won’t go back to not removing the table. It’s held on by two bolts and takes almost no time to take it off and put it back on. Yes, you do have to remove it, but I can view the bearings better that way anyhow.

I’d second the recommendation that somebody else had and watch the video. I followed Alex’s steps and my saw runs much better now.

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com