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Forum topic by Don K. posted 04-17-2009 07:05 PM 2714 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Don K.

1075 posts in 2794 days


04-17-2009 07:05 PM

Hey guys (and gals) new to lumberjocks, came across it while looking for some reviews over a Grizzly jointer. I have narrowed my search down to two different models, a G0586 8 inch and a G0604ZX 6 inch.

The 6 inch has a spiral cutter-head, parallelogram beds and is 55 inch’s long, the 8 inch does not but is 2 inches wider and has a 75 inch bed.

The six inch has free shipping…the 8 inch does not…but the 6 inch will still cost me a hundred dollars more. Now for my question, is the 6 inch with all of its upgrades but narrower bed worth a $100 more than the 8 inch with the wider and longer bed?

I know the 8 inch is much better for the wider boards…..but do not want to spend over a $1000 for a 8 inch with the same features as the 6 inch.

Any and all opinions and advice would be very much appreciated.

-- Don S.E. OK


16 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3116 days


#1 posted 04-17-2009 07:15 PM

what is your main purpose for the jointer? do you need to go 8” wide?

I wouldn’t pay too much focus on the parallelogram beds, it’s just a different mechanism, does not mean ‘better’. the spiral cutter head is a nice feature on the 6” though. but thats about it.

I think most people would rather have the extra 2” width capacity. esp. if it costs less than the 6”

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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spanky46

995 posts in 2858 days


#2 posted 04-17-2009 07:15 PM

My choice would be the 6 inch! But then there are few times I need wider than 6 inches.

-- spanky46 -- Never enough clamps...Never enough tools...Never enough time.

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Don K.

1075 posts in 2794 days


#3 posted 04-17-2009 07:53 PM

Sorry Purplev, should have been more specific. I make custom furniture/cabinets etc. So I glue alot of planks up, I have always used a sled to true up a edge on my lumber, so size has really never been a problem. But it would be nice to joint 8 inch wide lumber.

Again…. I am really torn, I know the extra 2 inchs and 75 inch bed would be great, also being a $100 cheaper, but the spiral cutter head would be very nice from what I hear.

-- Don S.E. OK

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3116 days


#4 posted 04-17-2009 08:13 PM

I would then go for capacity over “featured” blade setup….

speaking for myself, I know I’d cry more about “I wish I had that extra 2” to fit this” then I could cry over “if only I had spiral cutter head” ... since blade replacement and setup only occurs once in a while , whereas face planing wide boards might be more of a common thing.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#5 posted 04-17-2009 08:30 PM

Do focus on the parallelogram mechanism for the beds, it is a much easier and truer system to align the beds to be flat in the same plane with each other. With way an gib mounted beds you have to use shims on the ways to accomplish the alignment, a real PITA IMO. Been there done that. That was the main reason for replacing my Star 8” jointer with a DJ-20. Well that and the fence mechanism. The fence mechanism that most jointers have, that “H” linkage that swivels at the 4 points is not that great, I was considering redesigning that if I had kept that jointer. Always had to check the fence to be sure it was perpendicular to the bed with that.

Also, go for the longer bed(s). That was one of the reasons I bought the 8” Star when I did, it had the longest bed length in its class at the time and the longest infeed table (longer then the outfeed). Longer tables are definitely better.

As for the Shelix, that is nice, but it can always be added later. Someday my planer and jointer may both have Shelix cutterheads, but at the moment I’m in no hurry.

As for 6” verses 8”, go for the 8”, there’s been times I wish I had a 12”, although not too often, but there’s been plenty of times where a 6” would not have bee wide enough. And to rip a board just to joint the face then glue it back up is not something I would consider when you want that wider board look, especially with furniture.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3289 days


#6 posted 04-17-2009 08:43 PM

I have to agree on the 8” version. I have a 6” that is about 4 years old and constantly wish I had gone with an 8” model. As far as the spiral cutter head goes it is a nice add-on but not totally necessary. Its biggest advantage comes from from producing less tearout when working with figured woods and wood with a lot of wild grain. But this feature can be easily added as a later upgrade if you really need it. The two areas I would focus on are increased bed lenth and jointer capacity. If you can get that at a cheaper price then, to me at least, the decision is fairly straight forward.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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Don K.

1075 posts in 2794 days


#7 posted 04-17-2009 08:44 PM

Thanks for all the advice so far guys…these are the two I am considering.

8 inch http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/8-Jointer-w-2-HP-Motor/G0586

6 inch http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-Jointer-1-1-2HP-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0604ZX

other than the differance in size and features, what do you think of these jointers over all ?

Also the 6 inch has a mobile base and the 8 does not. but that is not a big deal. I have home made base’s on all my larger tools. So makeing one is not a big deal.

-- Don S.E. OK

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#8 posted 04-17-2009 08:54 PM

The 8” also has has a faster cutterhead speed, 5500 verses 4850, that is definitely a plus, and by the fact it does 22,000 cuts per minutes means it has a 4 knife cutterhead, another plus. You may not need a Shelix. And a 2HP verses 1-1/1Hp motor also.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#9 posted 04-17-2009 09:06 PM

Hey Don, if you were considering that 6” for $895, what about this 8” for $895:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Jointer-with-Parallelogram-Beds/G0490

Parallelogram mechanism for the beds and free shipping. Shelix to come later,

And a 3HP motor.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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Don K.

1075 posts in 2794 days


#10 posted 04-17-2009 09:47 PM

Thanks Blankman, I saw that one…..only problem is the 220, I plan on building a new shop soon and wiring in 220, but for now I only have the 110. I could add a 220 outlet myself close to the breaker box. But that would limit my mobility. As I stated earlier, all of my larger tools are mounted on wheeled base’s. My present shop is only 20×22, so depending on the project I move my tools around alot, once I finally build my new “Dream Shop” (been dreaming and planning on for 5+ years lol), everything will have a dedicated space.

The G0506, can go both ways 110 or 220.

-- Don S.E. OK

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3567 days


#11 posted 04-17-2009 10:08 PM

You are asking to make a tough choice.

I have the G0543 jointer. That is an older 8” jointer (4 years) with the spiral cutter head.

For the work that I do and the woods that I use, I can’t imagine using anything less than an 8” bed or straight knives. But if you cornered me with a choice, I would keep the capacity of the 8” wide bed.

Don’t let the 220v be a hindrance to your purchase. You can take a 12 gauge extension cord and make it work as a 220v cord. Cut the ends off and place the proper 220v plugs on it. I say an extension cord because they are often cheaper than buying wire cord by the foot.

Mobility will not actually be an issue as you stated. I have done this and it works fine and is safe.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#12 posted 04-17-2009 10:17 PM

Welllll…. A little conduit might get that outlet closer to where you want it. :) I wired my shop too for 220V for my unisaw, jointer, cyclone, and milling machine. And just a couple of weeks ago had to back pull a section of it to add a box and 220V outlet for my new RAS. That was a PITA.

I was surprised when I saw that thing with a 3HP motor, definitely unusual. Maybe Grizzly would swap it for a 2HP? Don’t know that it needs a 3HP, most 8” models come with a 2HP, some even a 1-1/2HP. My DJ-20 only has a 1-1/2HP and it doesn’t even flinch when I’m running 8” hard maple, walnut, or purpleheart through it

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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patron

13538 posts in 2809 days


#13 posted 04-18-2009 01:28 AM

go wih the 8” , you can always get the disposa-blades , that are cheaper than the shelix .they are easy to change and align .regardless of what you get , we’ll always be dreaming of something bigger and better .
iv’e got the dj-20 8” and rarely need more width if i do a sled with shims in the planer works ok .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Don K.

1075 posts in 2794 days


#14 posted 04-18-2009 05:43 AM

Thanks for all the replys guys…..I have decided to go with a 8 inch. Now the problem is this (lol)..... I had decided IF I bought a 8 inch, I was going to buy the G0586.

But Blankman brought up a very good point…if I was willing to spend $895 on a 6 inch, but prefered a eight inch, why not buy the G0490. It has Parallelogram beds AND a built-in mobile base. The only reason I did not consider it was because I did not want to run a 220 line across my shop. But after some consideration I thought “Why not”

So my next question is this….Levers or hand wheels to adjust the beds ? I have always used hand wheels on the jointers I haved used, but never Levers.

Pros and cons for levers ???

-- Don S.E. OK

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#15 posted 04-18-2009 06:06 AM

Glad I could be of help.

When I bought my first jointer I wanted hand wheels because I though it’d be easier to adjust. As it went, I got one that had a hand wheel on the outfeed and a lever on the infeed. Don’t ask why, I don’t know that’s just the way it was.

But it turned out it didn’t matter either way, because I found out I don’t adjust them that much if at all. The only time I adjust the outfeed table is when I change the knives, to make it once again level with the knives. And once I adjust the infeed table to take off 1/64” I never adjust it. Right now my DJ-20 has levers and that’s just fine.

I don’t use the jointer to hog out material, I use it to flatten the board then I take it over to the planer to do the hoggin’. And if I have to make 8 passes on the jointer instead of 2, so be it. I try to take off as little as needed on the jointer to make the board flat and square up one edge. In a production environment that may not work, but I’m not in any hurry.

I guess that lets the jointer knives stay sharp longer which is a plus because for me it’s easier to change the planer knives then the jointer knives. (I don’t use a jig to set the jointer knives, don’t believe in them. I use a dial indicator to get them within 0.001” of each other and with the outfeed table.)

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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