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Forum topic by jtech1 posted 02-02-2015 03:00 PM 886 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


02-02-2015 03:00 PM

I have recently decided on a new Jessem table, fence and lift. Now I just need to decide on dedicated router for it. I am a weekend hobbyist. I already have laminate router and of 2hp plunge base router. For the table I am trying to decide between porter cable 892 or 7518. I am sure the 892 will do everything I need. Even if I have to make multiple passes with large raised panel bits. It is also probably quieter than the 7518 and comes with 1/4 and 1/2 collets. But is there any reason I am missing that I should spend another $140 for the 7518?

Also, can someone who has the 892 in a lift confirm for me whether above table bit changes can be done without reaching under the table to lock the shaft? If so, how do you do it from above? Info says single wrench to change bit… but does not say anything about how it is accomplished… or if you have to reach under to lock shaft… any info on how it is done would be greatly appreciated.


13 replies so far

View boatz's profile

boatz

79 posts in 1114 days


#1 posted 02-02-2015 03:11 PM

I have the Mast-R-Lift II Excell with the 7518 Router. The extra HP makes the routing easy and I absolutely love the convenience of the wheel height adjustment. To me the ease and convenience were worth the extra price.

-- You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes you just might find, you'll get what you need

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RogerM

761 posts in 1862 days


#2 posted 02-02-2015 03:52 PM

Go with the Porter Cable 75182 Variable Speed Motor offered by Amazon for $287.99 and you will not regret it. This motor is very reliable and with the variable speed will do it all. Note, you will need the higher power and reduced speeds for larger raised panel bits.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


#3 posted 02-05-2015 01:26 AM

Thanks for all the feedback… with the 7518 in a Mast-R-Lift I know I can do above table bit changes, but how is it done? Two wrenches or one? And if one, how do you lock the shaft while changing the bit? Do the 7518 and 892 both work the same with bit changes?

Also, how do they differ with noise level? I know hearing protection is in order for both, but is how do they compare sound with sound level at high speed?

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bonesbr549

1176 posts in 2530 days


#4 posted 02-05-2015 01:49 AM

I have both the 890 series router and the 7518. The 7518 is the better choice. It’s got more power, which you will appreciate with raised panels and is more of a workhorse. If you check out cabinet shops it’s the gold standard. I’ve had mine in my router table for 10+years now and not a burp.

don’t get me wrong the other aint bad but it’s just not near the 7518 in performance. If it’s going in the table and dedicated to that purpose, pay the extra.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


#5 posted 02-05-2015 01:53 AM

thanks bones… can you help me understand how you change bits? one wrench or two… how do you lock the shaft? Thanks!

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runswithscissors

2187 posts in 1488 days


#6 posted 02-05-2015 05:54 AM

I used to have the 7518 in a router table. A very powerful router, and probably no louder than any other powerful high speed universal motor. Unless they have changed the design, it is a two wrench bit changing job. Since I didn’t have a lift, I usually popped it out of the table (still attached to the table insert) so I could access the shaft with the wrench.

One way that might work would be to weld up a Z-shaped wrench for the shaft that would let you reach it from above. Of course, if you raise the whole router sufficiently, you can do it all from above the table. I realize this sounds a little vague, but it’s been several years since I had that setup. And I realized that nobody else had addressed your question.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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knotscott

7210 posts in 2838 days


#7 posted 02-05-2015 11:42 AM

AFAIK, the Triton will allow above table bit changes with one hand, and no router lift needed….which is a feature I absolutely loved about my Freud FT1700. That’s not saying it’s at the level of a PC7518, but for hobby use the Triton has a decent track record and should work great…it even leaves some money in your pocket for other things.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


#8 posted 02-05-2015 04:24 PM

Can anyone shed some light on the bit change process for a 7518 in a Mast-R-Lift for me? One or two wrenches? Or is there a collet lock and one wrench? If a lock, how do you access it? Thanks!

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

761 posts in 1862 days


#9 posted 02-05-2015 04:28 PM

Jtech – Changing the bit in a 7518 is a two wrench operation. I handled this problem in my router table by bending the two wrenches sent by Porter Cable so they would go down into the table opening. You may need to go to a machine shop with a acetylene torch to get the bends sharp enough.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


#10 posted 02-05-2015 04:42 PM

So, even with a Mast-R-Lift it is not high enough to use the two wrenches supplied?

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1176 posts in 2530 days


#11 posted 02-05-2015 05:23 PM



thanks bones… can you help me understand how you change bits? one wrench or two… how do you lock the shaft? Thanks!

- jtech1

Hey, you have a few options. Default is two wrenches, and I use the woodpecker PRL lift, so it’s raised to the top, and it’s a quick change over, I’ve never had an issue. The other alternative is aftermarket bit holders that have a key lock on the side that is one tool change. I bought one and used it for a while, but eventually went back to just regular. One tip I would suggest. Place a small rubber grommet in the bottom of the bit holder so that the bit does not bottom out. Good luck.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

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greenacres2

251 posts in 1631 days


#12 posted 02-06-2015 02:06 AM

I can’t speak to the 892 vs 7518 question, but as far as bit changes are concerned…

A pretty fair number of folks over on router forums have been using Musclechucks (http://musclechuck.com/index.html) for a few years now. Adds enough height to most routers that above table bit changes are easy, and done with a hex wrench. I’ve noticed that once a person buys the first one they generally pick up a second for a different router.

I don’t own one yet, but did have the chance to tinker with one a few weeks back—struck me as well made, didn’t feel any vibration in the router and a quarter turn is all it takes to release a bit. Salty money (hence “i don’t own one yet”), but seems like a pretty solid product.

earl

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jtech1

6 posts in 704 days


#13 posted 02-15-2015 07:19 PM

Thanks to all who helped me here! I went with the 7518 in the Jessem table. Just finished putting it together. Easy to change bits from above with the two wrenches. I am going to give it a try in the next few days. Looks good already and I have not even powered it on yet. I really like this Jessem table and fence… as well as the lift. Although, they instruction manuals could use some improvements… in a lot of cases you have to figure things out on your own, sine the pictures are so small you can’t make out what they are showing, and the text is incorrect in a few places… seems like they change the way they ship some of the items and never updated the docs…

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