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router tear out

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Forum topic by paulwl posted 02-02-2015 02:51 PM 646 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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paulwl

3 posts in 670 days


02-02-2015 02:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

New to the lumberjocks. I hope that someone can help me with my box joints. I keep having tear out when using my router for the box joint. I can get the jig to work on my table saw. The only thing about it is that it tacks a long time. I can’t use a dado with my table saw. I am new to woodworking, I can do some work on my house without help.


6 replies so far

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

759 posts in 1859 days


#1 posted 02-02-2015 03:17 PM

First, Welcome to Lumberjacks. I was able to stay in a cottage in Chester Nova Scotia up in your country last September. Nice country!!!!

As you are finding out, table saws are better for making box joints than routers. The best method for reducing tear out on a router table is to us a scrap backer board. This helps but will probably not eliminate the tear out. Another way to deal with the tear out is to accept it as it comes off the router table , glue your box up then after the glue sets up trim the faces on the box with a table saw or band saw. This eliminates the tear out but reduces the thickness of the sides of the box.

Also, you may want to consider doing a different type of joint for your purpose such as a keyed miter joint, or drawer lock joint.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View goochs's profile

goochs

56 posts in 690 days


#2 posted 02-02-2015 03:25 PM

FYI I use a backer board BUT also on the router make smaller height cuts and work my way up to the depth I need. This is fairly simple for me for I use a Incra LS system so I can make exact repeats.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4449 posts in 3421 days


#3 posted 02-02-2015 04:16 PM

Welcome.
I must ask if your bit is sharp. Don’t take full cuts. Sneak up on the depth, and as has been said, use a backer.
I have also seen some routers that “chatter” due to less than accurate construction. Kinda like the collet is not true to the arbor in the router.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

853 posts in 1571 days


#4 posted 02-02-2015 04:33 PM

Are you using carbide bits or HSS (high speed steel) router bits?

Half inch shank or quarter inch shank?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View HornedWoodwork's profile

HornedWoodwork

222 posts in 675 days


#5 posted 02-02-2015 04:42 PM

The backer board will help and so will sneaking up on the final cut. Is your tearout above the cut or on the side of the side of the tooth? if it is above the cut, use a knife to score the cut line first before you go to the router. If it is on the side you might consider how sharp your bit is, and sharpen it if you find the need. Also try supporting the whole area with masking tape (watch for changes in tolerance here, it should not have an affect if you keep tape on the face only, not the edges.)

Is your router variable speed? depending on the size of the bit you may want to INCREASE the speed. Blowout is caused by pressure applied to the woodfibers before the blade can reach the fiber to cut it, the solution is to move the piece slower and the bit faster.

-- Talent, brilliance, and humility are my virtues.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#6 posted 02-02-2015 05:20 PM

Try a backer board and better router bit.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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