Best Wood Glue?

My preference would be titebond 3. I glued a piece up that had walnut and oak in it that I wanted to steam bend it after I glued it.It would not bend with it being glued up. So that sold me on titebond 3 and I now use it on everything.

-- Dustmaker, Kansas

For an all purpose I would use titebond II
Titebond III for special things where moisture is a concern, but generally titebond II is sufficient.

Titebond II.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

There is no single best glue.
It depends on:

• Type of wood(s) and materials
• Kinds of joining
• Environmental conditions

I would use a different glue for each of the following:

• Mortise and tenon
• Panel gluing
• Veneering
• Mixed substrates, e.g. metal to wood
• Outdoor usage
• Stone and shell inlay
• Historical restoration

-- Randy, Rustic Artisan, a family tradition. (No PM's - auto-deleted.) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."

Titebond II for most general applications.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

DRG, that’s why Emily narrowed it down to ”all purpose wood glue”
GEEEZE, lol

yellow

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

TB II & TB III like the rest. If you get into specifecs, contact DRG!!

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas

I use Titebond III as my all purpose. I test my joints regularly and I trust it implicitly.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

the one very best.. 70 percent of the time, titebond 2 or 3,,

but if your talking teak, burbinga etc.. gorilla glue

and if your thinking small parts and a quicker bond,, ca

and then at times you can not work without a two part epoxy

drg nailed it,, asking me to work with just one glue would be the same as just one power tool

-- It's not a sickness, i can stop buying tools anytime.

Sounds like Titebond 2 or 3 is a good way to go. Thank you so much for all your resoponses. Really appreciate the feedback!

-- Thanks- Emily, Washington, www.carbideprocessors.com

I was going to be buying it in bulk, and was hoping to get something that would work well for just about anything. Thanks again everyone. Really appreciate all your responses.

-- Thanks- Emily, Washington, www.carbideprocessors.com

Are you the purchasing agent for carbide processors??

I prefer the right glue for the job. Each Titebond has its application and for outdoors, I use foaming glue like Gorilla.

-- making sawdust....

No, at least I don’t have control over the credit card. :) One of the other girls does the purchasing, I was just helping out to see wich Glue we should buy. By the way, I noticed you were pretty new. Welcome to Lumberjocks! Great people here always willing to give good advice, but I’m sure you have already noticed.

-- Thanks- Emily, Washington, www.carbideprocessors.com

Thank You Emily, Yep, Still a newbie, I haven’t posted any pics yet. Trying to build up my nerve.

Just switched from Titebond II to Titebond III. Anybody use Gorilla’s wood glue?

i use epoxy i’m affraid glue if i use is straight forward pva wood glue

-- cut it saw it scrap it

I’m a TB III kind of guy but most yellows are great.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

T i t e b o n d I I I …..the ultimate thing.

-- Francisco Luna, San Francisco Bay Area.

For price and overall use, a PVA glue like Titebond II will give good glue strength, some moisture protection, and has easy clean-up. It will work in almost all furniture applications.

Titebond III is more expensive but is more waterproof, making it good for outdoor use, and areas like kitchen/bar surfaces. It has a slightly longer set time, which makes it good for complex glue-ups.

The polyurethane glues like Gorilla glue, are now showing that they do not hold up well in the longterm, especially in moist areas. In complex assemblies, they are good in that you can apply the glue to one surface, and just wet the other with a spray bottle as you assemble (long assembly time). Downside is that they expand (can be a positive in a loose joint), are hard to clean up, and have a very short shelf life after you open the container.

If wanting a no-creep glue for bent laminations, or a “forever” glue, a two part urethane glue like Howard Marks uses is the best, but expensive.

Realize that many of the old masters pieces are still with us after several centuries, and they were put together with hide glue.

Go.

I am not disparaging Titebond I, Elmers white glue, etc. They are inexpensive, but work quite well for many items that are going to be inside in an air-conditioned home. They do have the advantage that you can use moist heat to “unglue” the pieces at a later date in time, much like hide glue. This can be a good thing if you have ever had to refinish/repair a rocking chair, etc.

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

I like Titebond III, and the Titebond for dark wood.

-- Matt, Houston Texas

Speaking of Titebond III, it is on sale at Rockler for $3.79 for the 8 oz bottle.

-- Chuck - Central Massachusetts

I can tell you that Museum restorers use what has been used since ancient Egyptian times: hide glue. And one reason is if it has to be removed, it doesn’t hurt the wood around it. Glues that provide bonds stronger than the material around them, then means that material must be damaged if the gluing has to be undone.

2 votes for “yellow”

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

All the Tite-Bonds.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................