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Forum topic by Mbx posted 01-30-2015 02:34 PM 941 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mbx

2 posts in 674 days


01-30-2015 02:34 PM

Anyone have any experience with the base of these saws? I’m rebuilding one right now with a damaged base and wonder if I could replaced it with a thicker stamped metal base of a 113. My 315 is in great shape except for the cancer eating away at the base of this saw. Its very thin maybe 1/8th or less thick.


4 replies so far

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jsuede

69 posts in 684 days


#1 posted 01-30-2015 03:06 PM

I don’t have any experience swapping bases between the 2 but they appear to be close enough to be made to work. I don’t however recommend you spend money on a 113 base, I doubt It’s much thicker in gauge. My 113 base is currently rusted all to hell, I’m not going to replace it with another metal one, much better off constructing a mobile base cabinet from 3/4” ply. That’s what I did with my last 113 and plan to do with my current 113, allowed me to easily integrate dust collection and an outfeed table, and the extra storage was a nice bonus.

The 113 base measure 19 1/2” x 15”. If the bolt holes didn’t line up you could either enlarge/drill new, or mount a slab of 3/4” ply, and bolt to that. If you choose to use the metal base I recommend you mount hardwood slats (I used leftover T/G oak flooring) between each each leg as low possible on all four sides, it stiffens the saw base dramatically, and allows you to slip a handtruck in for easy moving.

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Mbx

2 posts in 674 days


#2 posted 01-31-2015 12:30 AM

Thanks for the measurements. I would like to make the base of this saw more rigid for sure. its rather flimsy and binds when tilting the arbor due to flex in the side panel and ball socket sandwiched between the sheet metal. I haven’t seen how exactly I could mound the saw to a slab of plywood as I’ve searched the internet on how to rebuild these old units. If anyone knows of a link to a rebuild project I would appreciate the info.

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jsuede

69 posts in 684 days


#3 posted 01-31-2015 02:05 AM

I thought you were talking the leg base. Don’t know if the actual cabinet is a viable swap. There shouldn’t be enough resistance when tilting to load up the side like that. I would check the tension on the sprung bolts that hold the trunnion in the curved slot, check the slot for debris, and definitely check the acme threaded rod and it’s mating arced thread for buildup and rust. I had to do some major refurb to all those parts and more last year because of moisture in my basement. Brake cleaner, PB Blaster, T9, and cheap HF brass brushes were my friends for a couple of days. I can turn all the adjustments with 1 finger now, without slop. If that turns out to not help, some cheap aluminum plates strategically placed might help stiffen up those contact points without interfering with the saws operation. I haven’t checked for your saw, but Sears keeps a pretty comprehensive stock of replacement parts, you can get the common stuff (table wings, handles, fences) cheaper elsewhere (ebay, Grizzly) but that cabinet is a pretty specific part. There are a couple of youtube videos for old CF tablesaw rebuilds.

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coaster

1 post in 490 days


#4 posted 08-02-2015 02:15 AM

Mbx, just saw your 6-month-old post. Have you discovered a fix yet for the flexing housing when using the blade tilt? I’m interested since I have an older Craftsman table saw with a similar problem. When I use the blade tilt, the side of the housing where the tilt crank emerges bulges out. I’m looking for a way to reinforce the side so this doesn’t happen. The problem pretty much makes the tilt screw useless. Any discussion or photos would be much appreciated.

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