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Resawing with HF Bandsaw

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Forum topic by TRHeath posted 01-30-2015 12:54 AM 1254 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TRHeath

75 posts in 1052 days


01-30-2015 12:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: hf bandsaw resaw resawing

Does anyone have a 14” HF bandsaw that is set up to resaw that actually works well. I have tried and tried with mine and I’m beginning to wonder if I am just wasting my time. Am I better off just buying a better saw?

-- So much to learn....so little time.....


37 replies so far

View jmartel's profile (online now)

jmartel

6572 posts in 1615 days


#1 posted 01-30-2015 12:59 AM

Did you set it up per the Alex Snodgrass bandsaw clinic video? What blade do you have and is it sharp?

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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RogerM

762 posts in 1864 days


#2 posted 01-30-2015 01:00 AM

Indeed, you are probably wasting your time and effort. Resawing is one of the more challenging operations you can perform with a bandsaw and it takes a good one with a good blade to do it well. Ricon and Grizzly offer good ones at reasonable cost. You may also want to check into Woodslicer or Timberwolf blades and Carter blade guides.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#3 posted 01-30-2015 01:08 AM

Any bandsaw can re-saw if setup properly and has a good blade. Problem is, there are a LOT of people who think they need fancy roller guides, huge motors, link belts and quick tension thingies to make them work properly and ignore the proper setup part of the operation!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TRHeath

75 posts in 1052 days


#4 posted 01-30-2015 01:08 AM

I’ve tried the most expensive blades I can find locally. I think they are Bosch 1/2”. I’m not sure on the video. I watched one by Carter Bandsaw guides and set it up to their specs but I don’t have those guides. I just have the cheap guides that came with the HF saw. I think the Carter roller bearing guides are about $150 and I’m not even sure they would fit the HF saw. I’ll take the plunge if someone can attest to them working well on the HF saw. I’d hate to spend that money and still not be successful because most of the better saws already incorporate guides like those and it would just be money down the drain if I did buy a new saw. I’ve read numerous times that timberwolf blades are far superior to others. I guess I’m just wondering if it’s the saw itself or something else. In general, the saw just doesn’t work well at all as far as accuracy is concerned. Is band speed an important factor?

-- So much to learn....so little time.....

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TRHeath

75 posts in 1052 days


#5 posted 01-30-2015 01:12 AM

Would the blade bogging down be a blade quality/sharpness issue, a blade speed issue or some combination of the two? Or maybe something else entirely?

-- So much to learn....so little time.....

View NinjaAssassin's profile

NinjaAssassin

629 posts in 1189 days


#6 posted 01-30-2015 01:12 AM

I’ll probably be zero help but…

Can you describe the problems you’re having and/or post come pictures/video?

-- - Billy

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jmartel

6572 posts in 1615 days


#7 posted 01-30-2015 01:14 AM

Blade bogging down could be a dull blade, too fast of feed rate, or a not powerful enough motor. Slow down your feed rate and try again.

Is the blade wandering at all or does it track nice and straight?

You don’t need the guides. Just set up your stock guides as close as you possibly can without touching the blade, set the tension correct, and make sure your blade is sharp.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#8 posted 01-30-2015 01:14 AM

I acquired a wealth of experience on tuning my Delta 14” band saw which HF cloned. I could share the first 9 steps but I will go straight to step 10: I sold it and bought a Grizzly 17” band saw. :)

By the time I sold it it actually worked really well. I shimmed the upper wheel to get it close to coplanar and carefully adjusted the top and bottom guides and the thrust bearings. I also squared the table to the blade and put a decent Lennox 3tpi blade. I also adjusted the fence to make it perpendicular to table. Then my wife gave me the. Go ahead for the bigger band saw and resawing is simply so much easier. Good luck.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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Case101

107 posts in 1257 days


#9 posted 01-30-2015 01:15 AM

could be 2 many teeth, how many teeth on your blade?

-- John, New Jersey

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2155 days


#10 posted 01-30-2015 01:16 AM

Blade bogging down could be several problems: too many TPI, belt slipping, motor not stout enough, rushing your cut, etc.
You want the fewest TPI you can find and the highest blade speed for your saw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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TRHeath

75 posts in 1052 days


#11 posted 01-30-2015 01:22 AM

It doesn’t cut straight at all. The only efficient use I’ve ever gotten out of it is cutting slightly oversize pieces that are finished with a router and template guide. I’m between homes right now and all my tools are in storage so it’s just something i’ve been thinking about but can’t really do anything about right now. I appreciate all of the help. I guess I’ll get a Timberwolf blade when I get things set back up and go from there. If anyone has added better guides to theirs and feel it was worth it, I can maybe make that jump to roller guides. I can’t show any pictures but if I tried to resaw a one foot long piece of just a plain fine 2X4 it would probably have 5 or 6 S curves in it varying up to half an inch from center both left and right. I guess my main objective is to determine if it’s me, the saw, the blade, all three or some combination. Again, I appreciate the input though.

-- So much to learn....so little time.....

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jmartel

6572 posts in 1615 days


#12 posted 01-30-2015 01:24 AM

You can also try a Woodslicer blade. That’s what I recently bought.

Wandering cut means it’s probably dull or not enough tension.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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TRHeath

75 posts in 1052 days


#13 posted 01-30-2015 01:34 AM

Thanks again, someone commented that the HF BS is a Delta clone which is something I had been wondering because I probably need to replact the tension spring anyway and the little plactic piece around the blade was lost long ago as well as the little bolt that goes into the kerf slot in the table and I have wondered if the delta parts would work on it. I don’t want to waste any more of anyones time guys but I do appreciate the input. It just gives me things to think about for when I can set up shop again.

-- So much to learn....so little time.....

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jmartel

6572 posts in 1615 days


#14 posted 01-30-2015 01:36 AM

I would try a new 1/2” 3 or 4 tooth blade, re-set up the saw according to that snodgrass carter video, and give it a shot. Slow down your feed rate and see how it goes.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View Mike Throckmorton's profile

Mike Throckmorton

124 posts in 1129 days


#15 posted 01-30-2015 04:29 AM

Make sure you got that blade on with the teeth pointing down.

Sometimes its the little things that get ya.

-- You are never complete, you just draw a line where done is and stop at that line.

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