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Forum topic by NoThanks posted 01-30-2015 12:44 AM 871 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NoThanks

798 posts in 991 days


01-30-2015 12:44 AM

*

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!


16 replies so far

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AandCstyle

2566 posts in 1719 days


#1 posted 01-30-2015 12:59 AM

Wud, IMO, the pieces you have indicated will not be sufficient to prevent racking because they aren’t wide enough. However, if the piece is square when you screw it to wall studs (both top and bottom), that should hold it square until you decide to move it. FWIW

-- Art

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NoThanks

798 posts in 991 days


#2 posted 01-30-2015 01:07 AM

Thanks Art,
I would make them about 4” wide, and they would mostly be to help give strength while moving it around.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2152 days


#3 posted 01-30-2015 01:09 AM

4” width glued into dados should stiffen that unit up considerably.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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NoThanks

798 posts in 991 days


#4 posted 01-30-2015 01:16 AM

Thanks Andy,
I doubt that it would get dado-ed, (which would add strength) but it could be glued and screwed since you won’t see the sides.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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firefighterontheside

13461 posts in 1319 days


#5 posted 01-30-2015 01:22 AM

That’s what I do. A face frame with pocket screws and glue has a lot of strength as well. As Art said, the wall will keep it square for as long as the wall stands.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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,

2387 posts in 3009 days


#6 posted 01-30-2015 01:52 AM

I think I’m going to agree with going with the nailers on the back portion, and yes a good ff will do a lot for the overall structure.

But then again there is this whole debate on ply versus solid ive seen lately, and every one knows solid is so far superior for every application. So much stronger, don’t u agree. And if ur building without a back, might want to make up for that weakness with the solid wood. Just had to throw that one out there. LOL. ;)

-- .

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johnhutchinson

1195 posts in 1092 days


#7 posted 01-30-2015 01:57 AM

I’m voting for no back rails.

Maybe you could mount it with something like surface-mounted bed rail hooks.

-- John - Central Ohio - "too much is never enough"

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NoThanks

798 posts in 991 days


#8 posted 01-30-2015 02:17 AM

Thanks Bill,

Thanks Jerry, you are a big help…lol

Interesting John, I would have never thought about that.
So your thinking the female pc would mount to the wall? Preferably on the outside if there was room between the side and the scribe on the face frame. This would keep a cleaner inside, Thanks

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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johnhutchinson

1195 posts in 1092 days


#9 posted 01-30-2015 03:08 AM

On second thought, why not a shelf at the bottom, to tie tings together, and a French cleat at the top.

-- John - Central Ohio - "too much is never enough"

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SuperCubber

868 posts in 1747 days


#10 posted 01-30-2015 04:13 AM

Hmmm… That wall unit looks verrrry familiar…

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

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thiel

374 posts in 2754 days


#11 posted 01-30-2015 05:37 AM

You might consider sightlines when thinking about the rails. Rails at the top and bottom will be visible, but the one in the middle will be mostly out of sight for standing observers.

You might also consider a sheet of 1/4 inch across the entire back of the piece. I agree that screwing to studs will stiffen the heck out of the thing… but you’d be amazed how much a 1/4 inch back can make it stiff and protect it until it’s installed.

-- Laziness minus Apathy equals Efficiency

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bobro

308 posts in 773 days


#12 posted 01-30-2015 06:32 AM

Not that many people are going to do it these days, but cabinet which is essentially a bottomless box on its side, with box joinery (finger joints or dovetails) all the way around, takes only a couple of thin rails across the back or a couple of firm shelves to be incredibly strong and resistant to racking, and doesn’t need a back or even a faceframe.

Otherwise, as firefighter and thiel already implied, the strength of modern cabinets is largely due to faceframe and back.

-- Lao Ma: You are so full of anger and hatred. Xena: Everybody's gotta be full of something.

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JeffP

573 posts in 854 days


#13 posted 01-30-2015 11:27 AM

Just throwing it out there…

If it is going to be attached to the wall, I would put in something specifically to make that go easier, but would not add anything to prevent racking.

While installing it, you can clamp or otherwise temporarily attach some squaring supports to the unit, and then remove after it is on the wall.

-- Last week I finally got my $*i# together. Unfortunately, it was in my shop, so I will probably never find it again.

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Tony_S

605 posts in 2545 days


#14 posted 01-30-2015 11:34 AM

Sorry I m having a mental Block!.... ;)

- Iwud4u

lol! I hate it when that happens…...no wait! Sometimes ‘blockage’ isn’t a bad thing.

Just use 2×4’s

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

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NoThanks

798 posts in 991 days


#15 posted 01-30-2015 03:13 PM



On second thought, why not a shelf at the bottom, to tie tings together, and a French cleat at the top.

- johnhutchinson


Thanks John, These are upper sections that will sit on a deep cabinet on top of the counter top.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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