real work bench

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Forum topic by daddywoofdawg posted 01-28-2015 07:48 AM 846 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1006 posts in 994 days

01-28-2015 07:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I have a decent workbench now but it’s too light for planing and chiseling so I want to build one for the job; the workbench I need to build would be a heavier one,and woodworking vise.How small is too small for a planing,chiseling bench?I have very limited room and In a wheelchair would a 4’ one be heavy and stable enough?tail vise the best choice since I’m not planing to go large objects.
I’m thinking a Paul sellers 2×4 style.

5 replies so far

View jmartel's profile


6465 posts in 1569 days

#1 posted 01-28-2015 03:44 PM

Daddywoofdawg, ask the question in the workbench thread.

People in there should be able to help you out. My bench is only 5 feet long, so I think a 4 foot one would be just fine. I know Mos has a shorter bench as well.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View bobro's profile


308 posts in 729 days

#2 posted 01-28-2015 03:55 PM

My bench is short, narrow, high and light (spruce and Douglas Fir), but it’s immobile like a stone boulder unless I’m doing heavy planing on a big board, at which the whole bench as a unit will move. No problem even then, I just anchor it with one foot.

The secret is to have a tight design with zero racking, and to have trestle and “feet” in the usual European style. Or splayed trestle legs, which I think is how the Paul Sellers design works.

-- Lao Ma: You are so full of anger and hatred. Xena: Everybody's gotta be full of something.

View Troy Cleckler 's profile

Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 790 days

#3 posted 01-28-2015 04:15 PM

Go over the to “workbench smack down” thread. I’m just finishing up my Roubo style bench and I got a lot of help from the guys that hang out in that thread.
If I can give my 2c worth, I’d suggest getting wider boards and rip them to size rather than going with the 2×4. you’ll find that a 2×10 or 2×12 are typically clearer and straighter than the smaller stuff. I picked through all the 16 footers and ended up getting a couple of 2×10x8 and these seem to be even better, they just didn’t have a enough for my complete bench.
Whatever you decide, get enough for complete bench and sticker it in your shop for a few weeks to dry some more and more importantly acclimate to your shop.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

View bbrown's profile


173 posts in 2971 days

#4 posted 01-29-2015 01:13 AM

I bought my 2’ x 4’ pine bench on Craigslist for $20 (no kidding) and added a few features: a mobile wheel mechanism, a heavy load bearing storage shelf, and a quick release vise that (on sale at Peachtree for $35), dog holes, etc. Yes I am Scottish :) I might add an end vise next. I put 3 sakrete (concrete) bags on the shelf (not in the photo) and, as a result, the bench is rock solid. I make reproduction furniture and do a lot of planing and the bench does not move. I did the same thing at my lathe. My point is that the bench itself does not need to be super heavy to be immobile.

-- Forest, Virginia ; Micah 6:8

View ElChe's profile


630 posts in 755 days

#5 posted 01-29-2015 01:36 AM

Would accessing the bench on a wheelchair with a trestle base present a problem? A Roubo style bench with its apron would seem like it would not work. I’ve seen benches like this one that might give you the best access?

If you make a heavy top (4” thick) for a four foot bench should give you sufficient heft for planing and hand tools. I know Chris Schwartz wrote an article re wheelchair accessible benches. Let us know what you come up with. Tom

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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