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Forum topic by MissouriOutdoors88 posted 01-26-2015 12:09 AM 848 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


01-26-2015 12:09 AM

I picked this Stanley No. 4 up from the antique mall for 20 bucks. I’ve just about got it all clean (was very rusty and dirty). Anyway, I think this is either a Type 16 or 19. Can anyone help based on the pic provided below? Thanks!

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.


16 replies so far

View MNclone's profile

MNclone

187 posts in 1048 days


#1 posted 01-26-2015 12:20 AM

Pretty sure it is a19 due to the Y shaped rib under the frog.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 951 days


#2 posted 01-26-2015 12:34 AM

Type 19 by the studies Ive looked at. But I’m not 100%.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#3 posted 01-26-2015 12:38 AM

Looks like it from the research I’ve done too. Any of you experts know if these were of decent quality? I ask because I realize they’ve varied over the years.

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View richardwootton's profile

richardwootton

1699 posts in 1420 days


#4 posted 01-26-2015 12:58 AM

It should make a good user once it’s tuned up.

-- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training

View DocBailey's profile

DocBailey

584 posts in 1824 days


#5 posted 01-26-2015 01:28 AM

Don’t fall for all the BS you read on the ‘net

There is nothing remotely wrong with the type 19 planes.
I have many and they can hold their own against any other Stanley, including Bedrocks.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2032 days


#6 posted 01-26-2015 10:37 PM

what Doc said!

And I’d say a type 19.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View MissouriOutdoors88's profile

MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#7 posted 01-28-2015 03:28 AM

Well I’ve gotten it almost completely clean. I think I’ll repaint the black areas. Any suggestion on paint type/brand? Also am going to try to sharpen. I’ve asked te question before but what grade of sharpening stone is ideal?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

13733 posts in 2083 days


#8 posted 01-28-2015 03:44 AM

Don W uses something like Ford Dupli-color Engine Paint (black). It works very well. For sharpening, lots of learning curve out there.

Many begin with some form of the scary sharp system. It’s accessible and it does work, and people stick with it, too.There’s oil stones from there, and water stones, with and without eclipse holding jigs (vs. freehand). Stones or sandpaper don’t have ideal grits, but you work through the grits. Like when sanding a project through the grits. And that’s where it’s important to find a way, and stick with it before jumping from one to the other.

So, I’d say try scary sharp for awhile, to see what sharp is. Then consider one more step: oil or water. Oh, or DMTs.

:-)

One thing I would suggest as a specific is to not sweat the uber-fine grits, like 8K stones. A strop, ala Paul Sellers, is very effective for final polish and does well to resurrect an edge quickly, too.

Anyway, some starting thoughts. Hope it’s a help.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2032 days


#9 posted 01-28-2015 12:18 PM

View MissouriOutdoors88's profile

MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#10 posted 02-05-2015 02:43 AM

I have sharpened this iron pretty well but am having some issues. I am experiencing a lot of tear-out. Certain areas of the grain are just ripping out in places. Could this be a situation where the surfaces aren’t flush with one another (chip breaker to iron, frog to chipbreaker, etc.)?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2032 days


#11 posted 02-05-2015 06:04 PM

how close is your chip breaker to the edge? Try moving it closer and closing up the mouth as well.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#12 posted 02-06-2015 02:52 AM

Chip breaker is about 1/16” from edge of iron. What do you mean by closing up the mouth? Wouldn’t that make it tough for chips to slide through?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

8108 posts in 1757 days


#13 posted 02-06-2015 02:56 AM

shouldn’t really be taking a deep enough cut for chips, rather should be getting a shaving. To close up the mouth you move the frog forward a little, to narrow the gap between iron and the front of the mouth. What this does is makes the plane sole hold the wood down until right before it gets to the iron. Helps prevent tear out.

Silly question, but have you tried planing in the other direction when you’re getting tear out? (Also, what kind of wood?)

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN - http://www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods - http://www.TheModsquito.com

View MissouriOutdoors88's profile

MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#14 posted 02-06-2015 03:31 AM

Yea maybe I was going too deep. I just had some really rough areas from nicks and such that I was trying to get out. But I guess that should be done with very little iron sticking out too eh?

It definitely was not as pronounced when I went the other way, but still happened a little. Could the least bit of the iron not being flush with the face of the frog cause it?

I posted the wood type ID a couple months ago. Have a look, but the general consensus was likely ash. It is At LEAST 50 years old, found in one of my barns and likely milled on site with their old woodsaw (the kind that attached to a PTO on a tractor to be driven).

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 803 days


#15 posted 02-06-2015 03:36 AM

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/64805

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

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