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Forum topic by pallystu posted 01-24-2015 04:04 AM 1456 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pallystu

75 posts in 1069 days


01-24-2015 04:04 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bed platform bed cedar pine

Well I will be moving out of my familys house soon and I need furniture lol…im 19 and I don’t make a lot of money so I cant really buy any thing other than some cheap Wal-Mart crap so im out to make my own. I am not shooting for any thing fancy but I do want a step up from the plain ugly metal bed frames that honestly do nothing more than hold your bed up 3” off the floor.

I am thinking of making a platform bed that will hold my mattress about a foot off the ground. Im going with the idea of a platform bed since it will be easy to make and will be able to be made in the same price range of a new metal frame. honestly this is mostly to give me some real wood furniture as I find the cheap wire and bar frames to be really weak.

I was going to do the legs and outer rails in cedar as it is easy to get and cheap around here but looks a lot better than pine…its a little more expensive but I think it will be worth it. The parts that I wont see but will hold most of the weight is going to be pine 2×4’s. Im thinking of having the cross runners slip into groves of another pine board that will be glued and screwed onto the inside walls of the horizontal cedar runners…I think this will help distribute the pressure evenly and make it nice and strong. Im going to use 4×4’s for the legs as I seen it done a lot. pretty much the whole thing is going to be done with butt joints, glue, and screws.

My real question here is do you think this design will hold up? im using a lot of thick wood and simple construction methods so I think it should be pretty strong but I have never made any thing this large out of cedar and Im not sure on how it will hold up.

As I said im shooting for fairly cheap and easy to make so what do you think? I should be able to make this for about $75 after tax. im hoping for more of a simple slightly rustic look.

-- take your time


10 replies so far

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 797 days


#1 posted 01-25-2015 06:34 AM

I think it will hold up fine. I have an antique pine bedframe and the box spring rests on 3/4” boards laid on their face and no sag.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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pallystu

75 posts in 1069 days


#2 posted 01-25-2015 04:02 PM

Thank you lol :) my main issue was thinking about the wood im using…I have not really worked with cedar before but I love the way it looks and its pretty cheap here lol…I hear its pretty soft but idk how I could put a dent in a bed 0.0

-- take your time

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cjh

9 posts in 3053 days


#3 posted 01-27-2015 06:02 PM

my .02,

Cedar is fairly soft so while you can glue and sink a bunch of screws in the 4×4 posts, if it were me I would rather notch the top of each 4×4 instead so that the sides are sitting on a shoulder. This way your post will be flush to the sides (for me …more esthetic) and you will have a mechanical connection to hold the weight of the bed and it’s occupants.

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pallystu

75 posts in 1069 days


#4 posted 01-27-2015 06:41 PM

cjh To be honest I did take most of this design from some one else and tweaked it a bit…they had the 4×4 posts notched like what you said to do but I changed it since I have no idea how I can make it like that with the tools I have….I don’t have a band saw or a table saw with a dado stack so it would be harder/take more time to do…I guess I could cut a lot of lines into the wood with a circler saw and use a chisel to clean it up…hmm maybe build a jig of sorts to route it out? maybe take a little of both and rough it out with the circler saw and chisels and clean it up with a router?

-- take your time

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pallystu

75 posts in 1069 days


#5 posted 01-27-2015 06:46 PM

this is the original design….its the multi color pic about 4 down from the first one http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/33576/how-to-build-disassemblable-structure

-- take your time

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cjh

9 posts in 3053 days


#6 posted 01-27-2015 09:56 PM

Yeah that original design is how I would do the legs. You will never have to worry about that joint failing.

I do think you can do this without special tools. Having expensive tool may make things easier to get precision (or faster) but you can get away with a fair amount slop since the joint will be hidden anyway.

Since the only thing you would see would be that edge of the shoulder, I would line up all of your 4×4 and cut the shoulder edge with one cut using a straight edge and a circular saw. (use at least a newer/sharper carbide thin kerf blade….but it does not need to be really expensive) Rotate them all 90 and do that same thing for the second side of the shoulder. (You might also want to clam a sacrificial scrap piece on each end to minimize tear-out.)

Now that you have your clean edge you can remove the bulk of the material with a hand saw if you are careful and tune it up with a chisel. If you use a hand saw you can also clamp some scrap so you will guide the saw along your line to bulk out the material.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13448 posts in 1317 days


#7 posted 01-27-2015 10:56 PM

Is this a single, double, what? Are you gonna have a box spring? If no box spring you will want a plywood base other wise your mattress will sag between the joists. You can definitely moth your posts with the circ saw. Make one really straight cut with the saw set to the right depth where the rails will sit. Then make a cut every 1/4” or so to the end and then knock out the pieces with a hammer and clean up with a chisel. I do it on deck posts all the time.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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pallystu

75 posts in 1069 days


#8 posted 01-28-2015 01:23 AM

Its a twin with 12” gaps in the runners…it could sag but I have a box spring in case lol…I think ill try and notch out the legs and do it like how firefighterontheside said to do it…makes sense that with the notch the weight will be put mostly on it and not a few small screws.

-- take your time

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 902 days


#9 posted 01-28-2015 02:42 AM


I have no idea how I can make it like that with the tools I have…....I guess I could cut a lot of lines into the wood with a circler saw and use a chisel to clean it up…

Yes! This is pretty common in the world of carpentry/building construction. Works great. Set your saw depth, cut your lines 1/2” or so apart, and most of the waste can be removed with some hammer blows—-the rest cleaned up with a chisel.

A 1-inch depth with a 1 1/2 inch rail will give you lots of bearing and a purposeful 1/2” offset (that doesn’t need to be perfect)

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cjh

9 posts in 3053 days


#10 posted 01-28-2015 03:29 PM

+1 for the offset. 1/4-1/2 offset will add interest and you won’t have to worry about trying to make it perfectly flush.

Funny enough I have used the multiple cuts trick many times for house carpentry too and I didn’t even think of it in the context of furniture. Great idea.

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