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Forum topic by woodwhisperer1 posted 04-06-2009 03:30 AM 1297 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1 post in 3431 days

04-06-2009 03:30 AM

i just bought a new delta contractor table saw you no? the one from lows 570.oo dollars. my question is when i cut stock 2inches thick it leaves saw marks all the way down the the cut is this normal. im really new at this si ijust dont know if it’s the mid priced saw or is it the delta blade that came with the saw or what also the motor seem to start off slow thene picks up speed is that ok too. sorry for all the question i don’t have a clue.

11 replies so far

View kolwdwrkr's profile


2821 posts in 3554 days

#1 posted 04-06-2009 03:40 AM

The saw probably has a soft start feature but I don’t know the mechanics behind it. As far as the saw marks it could be the blade. There are different types of blades so you may want to talk to a local supplier as to what would work best for you. I use Forrest blades. There are other things to consider too. Properly setting up and maintaining your saw will help make better cuts, as well as aid in safety. Look into the blades. You may find yourself buying more then one for different uses. Also check the saw for accuracy. As for the slow start I don’t know anything about it.

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3786 days

#2 posted 04-06-2009 04:02 AM

I agree with Kolwdwrkr. I have found that when my saw leaves burn marks and blade marks on the wood I generally do not have the fence parallel to the blade. If I can get mine to 0.001” or less I usually do not see any burning. The best tool to do this with is a dial indicator. And by all means consider switching the blade that came with the saw out for a good quality blade. Blades that are included as part of the saw package are generally not high quality sawblades. Like Kolwdwrkr, I use only Forrest blades.

I am clueless about the slow start as well. I have never seen a table saw that does this.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View oldskoolmodder's profile


801 posts in 3644 days

#3 posted 04-06-2009 04:18 AM

What type of wood are you using? Where did you get the wood from? How many teeth on the blade that you are using? Most saws if any, won’t allow you to just start going right out of the box, without doing some fine tuning. It’s not a good idea to assume that the saw is going to cut perfectly right out of the box. You say you are new to this, meaning woodworking, or??? You should always do some research before just jumping in, otherwise you’ll spend more time asking why, instead more time saying WOW!

-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3362 days

#4 posted 04-06-2009 09:00 AM

Setting up any table saw is crucial to how it cuts. Saws rarely come from the factory with really good blades but you can do lots to help remove those marks by aligning everything correctly. It also makes the saw safer overall. I have several stories on the Table Saw on my site but start in the Basics section (link below) for stories that walk you through the base alignments and use.

Align a Table Saw

-- Tom Hintz,

View carlbigman's profile


17 posts in 3344 days

#5 posted 04-06-2009 11:00 AM

Hi All,

I agree with all the advice given so far about aligning and tuning your saw before using it. It is critical to doing smooth and accurate work. Also your blade selection must be right for the desired result. As a rule, when cutting boards for general construction and homebuilding you can use coarser blades with larger and fewer teeth which cut aggressively but not neatly, with much splintering and a very rough surface finish. When doing finish carpentry or fine cabinetmaking you should consider a blade with a higher tooth-count and generally many more finer teeth. I used a particular specialty blade on one of my saws that is known as a “Hollow Ground Planer Blade”. It has a slight concavity ground onto the side profile of the bade sides so as to reduce drag of the blade body itself and yield a fairly fine machine finish on your wooden project parts without having to sand as it is designed to actually cut and plane with just the top corner of the blade simultaneously in a single pass. When used properly on a well-adjusted saw, they don’t bind as easily or “ring” and vibrate when cutting. Using these blades can greatly reduce or eliminate the need for most secondary sanding operations and result in a reasonably good finish right off the saw. Also you should slow down the feedrate when you are moving the workpiece into the cutter as this will allow it more time for planing even smoother while cutting. Any cutter can be force-fed which clogs the teeth or cutting edges and does not allow for efficient clearing of chips and debris such as splinters and sawdust, just as when we overstuff our mouths and can’t chew and digest things efficiently. Right??? I hope this helps. Carl

View BTKS's profile


1986 posts in 3428 days

#6 posted 04-15-2009 03:56 AM

No one has actually came out and asked. Did you read and follow the owner’s manual? A methodical step by step trip through the manual will usually get you off on the right foot and give you a much better chance of not getting a board kicked through your teeth. Just a personal habit of mine, I open the box, pull out the manual to any new tool, leave the area and give a first read through it focusing on the key parts and adjustments. This is the best time to find those places that say (but do __ first or leave such and such loose until such and such is attached). Then I get to go play with my new toy. I have no idea how many hours of frustration and broken parts this has saved me. I’m known for having a bit of a temper when little things don’t go the way they should, especially after paying good money for something thats supposed to be quality.
I agree with all the above troubleshooting advice. Blades do make a differance but fine tuning generally makes a greater differance. Be extra care about front and rear clearances between the fence and blade. Too tight on the back is begging for kickback!!!!!
Best of luck, I really did not mean the first sentence in a negative or demeaning manner, just asking a needed question. I’ve asked that to everyone who has problems with a new tool or appliance. 95 – 99% of the time the answer is no. BTKS

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

View PurpLev's profile


8534 posts in 3612 days

#7 posted 04-15-2009 04:56 AM

BTKS – I second your view. only I try to RTFM even before I buy the tool. it also helps me understand differences between models, and benefits of certain models before having the weight sitting in my garage…

woodwhisperer1 (nice…) my suggestion, before going on a purchasing rampage buying new blades, etc ,etc (although in the long run that would be a good idea . there are numerous options out there, Oshlun, Forrest, Tenryu, Freud are all good) is to read the manual, and go over some online tutorials and videos as to how to setup your table saw properly and fine tune it. TomHintz link above is a GREAT source of info. by your avatar name I can only assume you’re familiar with Marc’s videos – he also has one about setting up the table saw. make sure that your miter slot is parallel to your blade and fence, that would be the key to getting those saw/burn marks off your sawn lumber.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18246 posts in 3640 days

#8 posted 04-15-2009 10:34 AM

If it has a soft start, it is probably an electronic device to lower the peak inrush current when the motor starts. That would allow you to start a bigger motor on a 15 or 20 amp circuit without popping the breaker and not dim your lights when you turn the saw on .

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View ShawnAllen's profile


28 posts in 3417 days

#9 posted 04-16-2009 04:15 AM

I’m surprised no one has mentioned the speed of the work piece through the blade..? Or does that always cause burning, not saw marks? See – I don’t know enough myself yet :D

My own experience – saw blade marks went away when:
a) I tuned the saw (even a new saw needs to be tuned), and..
b) I swapped the box-store blade for a Freud

The interesting thing is my saw hums now, instead of whining!

View SnowyRiver's profile


51457 posts in 3444 days

#10 posted 04-17-2009 05:27 AM

Its an interesting discussion about burn marks when cutting wood. I usually use a CMT thin kerf blade for most work. Sometimes however, I find it will make burn marks on certain types of wood like Cherry. When I switch to a Forrest standard kerf blade it seems to work fine. When I first started using the CMT blade I thought maybe the fence wasnt aligned properly and the blade was flexing, but its dead on so not sure why it causes burns on some wood. It could be the resin in the wood.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Francisco Luna's profile

Francisco Luna

943 posts in 3357 days

#11 posted 04-17-2009 06:19 AM

Very good question.
I would say you bought an excellent saw, that is going to give you an excellent service. The poblem? The blade. simple. When you have the chance, get a Freud, Industrial blade, either thin or standard kerf, you’ll see the diference!
Also, make sure your table top and fence is paralell to the blade, see the saw manual to make the proper adjustments.

-- Nature is my manifestation of God. I go to nature every day for inspiration in the day's work. I follow in building the principles which nature has used in its domain" Frank Lloyd Wright

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