LumberJocks

Repair wood defects by filling or .....

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Bill Davis posted 04-05-2009 09:59 AM 5238 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Bill Davis's profile

Bill Davis

226 posts in 3384 days


04-05-2009 09:59 AM

Topic tags/keywords: wood defects filling holes glue and sawdust narra question padauk finishing

I have obtained about 40 board feet of old reclaimed Narra that has nail and screw holes that need to be filled so they are as hidden or inconspicuous as possible. I have read of using fine sawdust (which I have access to) and wood glue mixed as a filler. Has anyone tried this? What tips can you offer? Any good alternatives for hiding holes? I intened to cut around defects as much as possible but hope not to waste more than necessary.

Narra, known as the Burmese Rosewood (Pterocarpus indicus) is a tree that yields valuable timber. It is known as Narra in the Philippines, Sonokembang in Indonesia, Angsana or Sena in Malaysia and Singapore, padouk in Fiji, tnug in Cambodia, and Pradu in Thailand. Narra is the national tree of the Philippines.

It was a good find and I am hoping to build some speaker cabinets with a nice clear lacquer finish.


6 replies so far

View Waldschrat's profile

Waldschrat

505 posts in 2896 days


#1 posted 04-05-2009 11:00 AM

Hello Bill,

yeah, I have tried the whole sawdust and white glue mix, it works ok but it is not perfect. With clear lacuer finish it will not be too bad (depends on laq, i would think), as with oil, it is extreme and you almost see the holes more.

I find that the japanese style knot hole repair set cool, because you fill the holes with a piece of wood cut from a scrap (you might need a dowel cutter if you do not already have one and they can be expensive) and it glues in and you see practically nothing especially if you match the direction of the grain and are carefull about the color and all that. there are normal cone shaped drill bits that are cheaper, and work well too. and you can get dowel cuters that mount on the workbench from veratas
http://www.dick.biz/dick/page/homepage/detail.jsf

this is a link to a company where I order alot of my hand tools. they ship all over. they are not the cheapest, but they do have generally good quality, I have yet to be dissapointed.

there is as well special types of filing compound that is clear which you can buy from finishing companies (at least here in germany) and its a clear compound that smells like acetone and you mix it with sawdust and this works a lot better than the “white glue/sawdust” mix, I think, especially if you are going to use lacuer finish.

who offers this where you live? I do not know, maybe someone else knows this stuff and what it is called or who offers it, where you are living.

-- Nicholas, Cabinet/Furniture Maker, Blue Hill, Maine

View Joey's profile

Joey

276 posts in 3276 days


#2 posted 04-05-2009 07:40 PM

You can try incorporating the holes into your design. I’m just finishing a dining room table out of antique heart pine. It was cut and milled over a hundred years ago into 24” square beams. I had it resawn and made a table from it. 2 of the legs have nail holes all the way down them, and worked out great with the taper. The aprons have nail holes scattered out throughout them. Even the top has a few nail holes in it including where i edge glued 2 boards. You can cut, usually a diamond pattern out with a router and then fill with a piece of scrap wood. You only need about and 1/8” thick piece. Cut your patches first, as a diamond or parrallegram, use that to mark where to cut. Use a router and a small strait bit to remove most. Finish with a chisel. glue and set the patch in.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

View Bill Davis's profile

Bill Davis

226 posts in 3384 days


#3 posted 04-06-2009 05:50 AM

I’m trying the white glue and sawdust on a small piece to see how it works out. Don’t have too much available here as far as purchased fillers without overseas shipping so will try to make do.

And the customer/design does not allow for the rustic look the raw holes would give so I either have to waste a lot of the wood or fill the holes adequately for a lacquer finish.

View Waldschrat's profile

Waldschrat

505 posts in 2896 days


#4 posted 04-06-2009 02:41 PM

Bill, ok, I now know what you mean, and what your customer wants… White glue will have to do… When I do this I always try and mix as little glue and as much dust as possible to make a higher wood/glue mix. Joey has a good point as well, although, I do not think I would do the patching with a router, I prefer my very well sharpend chisel, and make diamond forms and zig-zag patch forms with that. I guess a router is good with larger sections though, it all depends how big the holes are. A chisel to me is fast safe and very straight not to mention a chisel can make a very small cut straight cut. I suppose it is all a question of what one is used to.

-- Nicholas, Cabinet/Furniture Maker, Blue Hill, Maine

View kiwi1969's profile

kiwi1969

609 posts in 2902 days


#5 posted 04-06-2009 02:50 PM

Try using “super glue” with the sawdust. Sorry don,t know the technical name. Good find on the narra, it,s only available reclaimed here as it,s illegal to log.

-- if the hand is not working it is not a pure hand

View Joey's profile

Joey

276 posts in 3276 days


#6 posted 04-06-2009 03:00 PM

When patching I use an 1/8” bit to remove most and then pare back to the line with a chisel. I’ve done the glue filler. I use a stainable woodglue from elmers, and the dust from my random orbital sander. It does ok for small areas.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com