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1957 dewalt radial arm saw refurb

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Forum topic by Havasumatt posted 01-16-2015 05:53 PM 1619 views 1 time favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Havasumatt

30 posts in 1818 days


01-16-2015 05:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ras radial arm saw vintage refurbish dewalt saw

Picked this old guy up from my father. Wouldn’t run at first, and of course I checked the switch first….. Maybe… Ok last. So after new switch it purred wonderfully!!! Stripped the old green off and brought back the new dewalt colors. Changed out the cords and got a hold of the anti-kickback pawl. And replaced the long bolts that hold the motor housing together. Everything else was flawless!!! Just debating on the table and new blade. Gonna go with the forrest, just still searchin opinions on which one. And the mr. Sawdust table will happen when I get the blade.


17 replies so far

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

13738 posts in 2085 days


#1 posted 01-16-2015 05:58 PM

Oh, wow! Love it!!!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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JoeinGa

7483 posts in 1473 days


#2 posted 01-16-2015 06:24 PM

Good job. Looks great!

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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runswithscissors

2192 posts in 1491 days


#3 posted 01-17-2015 12:28 AM

A negative rake tooth is better on an RAS. Less tendency for the blade to rush at you out of control.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2279 days


#4 posted 01-17-2015 01:08 AM

Beautiful saw. Great work!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#5 posted 01-17-2015 12:57 PM

I’ll second the negative rake blade, unless you intend to rip with it (I never do). 9” blades are really hard to find, I think the Forrest may be one exception. I have a Ridge Carbide 9” but it looks like they quit making them not long after I bought mine. A good economical choice (back to the negative rake thing) would be a Freud LU91 in the 8 1/2” size. Loosing the 1/4” of cutting depth is no big deal, and since those saws are exactly overpowered it will behave a little better. Nice job on the refurb, I suppose you replaced the motor bearings? If the saw coasts for an excessive amount of time after shut down (with a blade, say one minute or more) the bearings could use replacing. One last point, you can see in the link that blade can be bought without that absolutely hideous red coating, looks much better.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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runswithscissors

2192 posts in 1491 days


#6 posted 01-17-2015 07:31 PM

Tenryu also makes a nice 9” blade.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Adam's profile

Adam

37 posts in 1695 days


#7 posted 03-19-2015 03:16 PM

I know this post is a couple months old, but if you haven’t picked up a blade, the folks at the dewalt RAS forum on delphi recommend an 8” Forrest WWI TCP blade for 9 or 10” saws, or the Freud LU83R if your saw is underpowered.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages?msg=3909.1

You’ll probably have to register to read the posts. Note that to get the Forrest blades they suggest, you have to call Forrest directly, as they don’t appear for sale anywhere, even Forrest’s own website. The blade was developed specifically for DeWalt saws by Forrest and Wally Kunkel, and actually has a positive hook angle. There’s an excellent FAQ on the forum that I’ve been perusing in preparation for cleaning up the GWI I just picked up.

View trz's profile

trz

90 posts in 1952 days


#8 posted 03-19-2015 06:15 PM



I know this post is a couple months old, but if you haven t picked up a blade, the folks at the dewalt RAS forum on delphi recommend an 8” Forrest WWI TCP blade for 9 or 10” saws, or the Freud LU83R if your saw is underpowered.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages?msg=3909.1

You ll probably have to register to read the posts. Note that to get the Forrest blades they suggest, you have to call Forrest directly, as they don t appear for sale anywhere, even Forrest s own website. The blade was developed specifically for DeWalt saws by Forrest and Wally Kunkel, and actually has a positive hook angle. There s an excellent FAQ on the forum that I ve been perusing in preparation for cleaning up the GWI I just picked up.

- Adam

So, why the positive hook angle if the neg is supposed to be better?

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Adam

37 posts in 1695 days


#9 posted 03-19-2015 07:08 PM

Just based on what they are saying over there, the positive hook angle blades give you the ability to do all of the other cuts that a RAS will allow. A negative hook will apparently get bogged down doing rips and bevels.

View TimberMagic's profile

TimberMagic

114 posts in 645 days


#10 posted 03-19-2015 07:20 PM

Great job on the restoration. I’ve been looking locally, but haven’t found and old DeWalt yet that I’m interested in. I currently own a 1975 Craftsman that I bought new—my first big power tool.

I replaced the top on it a few years ago, and used 1” MDF, with a thin (~1/16”) veneer of white melamine. Then I banded with thin strips of oak. The melamine can be replaced, if needed. I only tack glued it in a few places so it can be removed. It is nice to have a smooth, white surface to run lumber across. My replacement fence has a T-Track on top on the left side, with a regular and flip stops. It is pictured in one of the pictures in My Workshop.

-- Lee

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trz

90 posts in 1952 days


#11 posted 03-19-2015 07:21 PM



Just based on what they are saying over there, the positive hook angle blades give you the ability to do all of the other cuts that a RAS will allow. A negative hook will apparently get bogged down doing rips and bevels.

- Adam

Ah, that makes sense

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#12 posted 03-19-2015 08:42 PM

Actually the only thing the negative hook won’t do is rip cuts (it’s does them, but very,very, poorly and slowly). It cuts slower than any positive hook angle on any grain direction, so when you cut a bevel it cuts that more slowly as well. But the premise of their fondness of theat blade is right on, they advocate doing rip cuts. Many members over there have no TS, they are dedicated to the RAS. The advantages of the negative hook (more smooth cross cuts and miters) may (or not) be of more importance to someone who uses a TS for the other cuts.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 947 days


#13 posted 03-19-2015 09:58 PM

Looks great. How’s the power? Mine was never too good right from the start.

Please, please, please don’t rip with it. Its a dangerous procedure and this saw is too underpowered to do it.

I had one exactly like it but unfortunately the motor windings went bad and it needed to be hand wound, so I just couldn’t justify it. But man, did it ever hold its settings.

I like what you did instead of that ugly original green.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Havasumatt

30 posts in 1818 days


#14 posted 03-20-2015 02:22 AM

Well it’s been sittin like the pictures for a while now. Haven’t got around to build the table and get the blade yet. Before I refinished it I had an old 9” freud on it with maybe a 10 hook on it. Power was ok but gonna go with a negative hook and down to 8”. I use my ts for all my ripping so this was more for fun. I have it adjusted pretty tight but have to wait for the table to see if it will hold. I have a lot of confidence in it that’s for sure!

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dhazelton

2326 posts in 1763 days


#15 posted 03-20-2015 01:38 PM

I have one I’d like to put a new cord on. Where did you get that coiled power cord?

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