Sealing log ends

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Forum topic by woodchopper01 posted 03-20-2009 06:32 PM 16866 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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8 posts in 2773 days

03-20-2009 06:32 PM

Hi fellow wood works, new to this site and I’m after a bit of information about the best way to treat log ends to stop them from splitting whilst they dry out? In the US they use anchor seal, but I can’t seem to find anything like this in the UK. So as any wood turners got any surrgestions?

26 replies so far

View Gary's profile


8965 posts in 2851 days

#1 posted 03-20-2009 07:29 PM

I have absolutely no idea….BUT….welcome to the site. It’s a great place and someone will finally answer your question I’m sure. Lots of knowledge here….lots of experience

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3067 days

#2 posted 03-20-2009 07:36 PM

just use any sealer paint , the idea is to limit the moisture absorbed through the end grain… and Welcome to LJ!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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8 posts in 2773 days

#3 posted 03-20-2009 07:53 PM

Thank for the welcome Gary, How’s it hanging in Texas?

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8 posts in 2773 days

#4 posted 03-20-2009 07:58 PM

Hi, the problem with some sealer paints, blisser and peel off and the wood split?

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John Gray

2370 posts in 3304 days

#5 posted 03-20-2009 08:04 PM

I use some white enamel I happened to have and it works fine for me. You need to get the ends painted as soon as they are cut. Some that didn’t get to me until a few days after they were cut have checked longitudely all the way thru the limb. I’m curing large branches for tool handles.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Francisco Luna's profile

Francisco Luna

936 posts in 2812 days

#6 posted 03-20-2009 08:07 PM

Same topic frome another british Lumberjocker:

-- Nature is my manifestation of God. I go to nature every day for inspiration in the day's work. I follow in building the principles which nature has used in its domain" Frank Lloyd Wright

View Gary's profile


8965 posts in 2851 days

#7 posted 03-20-2009 08:45 PM

Texas is good woodchopper. How’s your neck of the woods?

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View dirtclod's profile


169 posts in 3279 days

#8 posted 03-21-2009 01:53 AM

I don’t reccomend paint. Most paint is designed to breathe so as to not trap moisture under the surface it’s trying to protect. If you can’t find a suitable log end sealer locally then you can buy parrafin (like Gulf Wax) from your local grocery. You can find it in the canning section. It has to be heated before application – but be very careful as it is very flamable. Beeswax, if you can find and afford it, is the ultimate sealer- better than everything else.

-- Wonderful new things are coming! - God

View YorkshireStewart's profile


1130 posts in 3320 days

#9 posted 04-06-2009 10:34 PM

Hello across the Pennines! A couple of coats of pva glue is what I use.

-- Res severa verum gaudium - True pleasure is a serious business.

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 3172 days

#10 posted 04-06-2009 10:36 PM

I have used Liquid Electrial Tape in a pinch and it has worked very well for me. It was on smaller pieces though.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View reid's profile


1 post in 2963 days

#11 posted 04-06-2009 10:43 PM

I dry wood for making wooden clock wheels (gears) and arbors by coating fresh cut wood with a coat of carpenters white glue on the cut ends and when that coat is dry I coat again. This method gives me the best results of any method that I have tried. I dry mainly holly, dogwood and cherry. Reid

View Padre's profile


930 posts in 2907 days

#12 posted 04-07-2009 01:02 AM

Hi, and welcome to Lumberjocks!

Actually, Anchorseal and other products like it are just variations on paraffin and/or beeswax.

Get some paraffin, or if you want beeswax (go to some churches near you, Roman Catholic and Anglican, they will have TONS of beeswax candle ends left over), melt it, and paint it on the ends of the logs. This will give you a great seal and prevent all checking. It also will adhere nicely to the wood and not chip off that easily, but can be turned off or sawn off with ease.

-- Chip ----------- 6:8

View Waldschrat's profile


505 posts in 2854 days

#13 posted 04-08-2009 10:10 PM

Yup, parafin or just like Yorkshire says… and how i learnd good old PVA white glue…. real thick and a couple of layers.

I read in a book though any latex paint is good too because it bonds with the wet wood and when it dries, it forms a plastic (well latex based) coat that will not breath. That should work too.

-- Nicholas, Cabinet/Furniture Maker, Blue Hill, Maine

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Craftsman on the lake

2506 posts in 2856 days

#14 posted 04-08-2009 10:27 PM

Wax is good but harder to get on. thinset tar is great. It looks like black paint after it’s on awhile but seals like crazy.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


17573 posts in 3094 days

#15 posted 04-09-2009 09:51 AM

Daniel, What do you mean by thinset tar?

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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