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Keeping a jobsite TS quiet

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Forum topic by TheLorax posted 01-13-2015 07:50 PM 1018 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


01-13-2015 07:50 PM

Has anyone here ever tried to build a base around the bottom of a jobsite table saw that has some insulation? I’m not sure if it would make much of a difference but I thought I would ask if anyone has done anything similar.
I’m just getting started in woodworking and I rushed out and bought a Dewalt 745 without realizing how much louder the jobsite saws are compared to a contractor saw with an induction motor. I’ve already used it some and don’t have the box anymore so taking it back isn’t an option. I could always sell it on craigslist and buy the Rigid 4512 that I almost bought to begin with.
Or….. Try to make a station for it that’s enclosed on 3 or maybe 4 sides if I can figure out an on/off switch solution and add some inuslation to see if that helps. Some noise is okay but this thing SCREAMS. I can’t be in the garage without my wife poking her head in to see what’s going on anytime I turn it on. It makes me try to come up with inventive ways of doing things so that I don’t have to turn the table saw on.


13 replies so far

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Loren

8301 posts in 3109 days


#1 posted 01-13-2015 08:01 PM

I think you could build a 4-sided base cabinet with cutouts
for the saw adjusters and line it with styrofoam insulation
sheet. That might help.

http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/stand.html

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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


#2 posted 01-13-2015 08:24 PM

Thanks for the suggestion Loren.

This is what I’m thinking. Build a base out of 2×6’s (because I happen to have a few lying around) and sheath it with particle board. I read that particle board is a good sound insulator and that’s why it’s used for the construction of subwoofer boxes in cars. Then maybe leave about 2 inches of air between the particle board and lay up some styrofoam insulation. to create an air pocket inbetween the two.

I was hoping someone had done something similar and could comment with any advice. I tried doing a google search and didn’t get much. It looks like I might have to pioneer this one.

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Loren

8301 posts in 3109 days


#3 posted 01-13-2015 09:07 PM

Homasote is a decent sound insulator and pretty cheap and
light. Particle board is ok I’m sure but homasote is way
lighter. It’s that bulletin board stuff. I used it once to
back up a wall unit in a noisy house with a lot of hard surfaces

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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


#4 posted 01-14-2015 06:22 PM

Sounds good I’ll see what they have at the local BORG after I get the frame of it built.
Thanks again!

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1182 days


#5 posted 01-14-2015 06:55 PM

Is it too late to return the DeWalt in favor of the Ridgid? I only ask because some of the return policies at the big box stores can be pretty lenient and much longer than the smaller stores. Constantly trying to upgrade something you bought new could be a real PITA.

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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


#6 posted 01-14-2015 07:31 PM

I’m not sure if the BORG will accept a return without a box? I don’t have the box anymore but I do have the original receipt and it’s been less than 90 days.
I might have to wait a little while for funds to get something bigger with an induction motor. As far as I know the rigid 4512 is about the cheapest option for an induction motor. I got the DW745 holiday special for $225 plus a 10% rate that made it only about $219. I could probably get close to that back for it on craigslist if I’m patient. Or is that asking too much?
I know JET used to have a benchtop model with an induction motor but I think they stopped making it.

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1182 days


#7 posted 01-14-2015 07:38 PM

Yeah no box/packaging might be a deal killer. As far as asking $219 for it, I don’t think anyone would right it off as crazy, but you should prepare for a little wiggle room. Having the receipt (especially if you haven’t registered it for the warranty) could be a bonus for a buyer, knowing it’s really not that old.

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MrFid

804 posts in 1366 days


#8 posted 01-14-2015 07:40 PM

I’d give it a shot at returning it. You can always say there was “something wrong with it” if they pressure you, because there was. It was too loud and not a big enough, powerful enough saw.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


#9 posted 01-14-2015 07:54 PM

I think I’ll keep it for now if I use it for a year and deal with the noise I can probably still get close to what I paid for it on the used market when I have more funds to upgrade to something better. I just have to remember not to spend much on upgrading the useability of this saw. It’s better than no table saw.

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knotscott

7210 posts in 2837 days


#10 posted 01-14-2015 08:39 PM

I see two options for keeping it quiet:

1) Unplug it
2) Look at it firmly, and say “sssssshhhhh”! ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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splatman

558 posts in 861 days


#11 posted 01-16-2015 03:02 AM

Line the inside with sound absorbing material. You’ll also have to add a bottom, and put SA material on it, too. Figure out something for sawdust. Anyone actually tried soundproofing a TS? Wrapping the motor would not be smart, as that will cause it to go Chernobyl on you.

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1182 days


#12 posted 01-16-2015 03:26 PM

I saw an article, can’t remember which wood working magazine it was in, they made a box to put a shop vac inside and lined the interior with sound absorbing foam and the difference was substantial. Provided the foam didn’t overly restrict airflow or result in excessive dust build up, it might be just the thing to quiet down the motor at least, not so much for the blade, but that problem would be no different than on a saw with an induction motor.

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TheLorax

41 posts in 699 days


#13 posted 01-17-2015 02:59 AM

Ah that’s what I like to hear! I realize the blade will still make noise but it’s that direct drive motor that screams that I’m mostly worried about.

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