How to attach angles on a solid wood countertop

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Forum topic by mc269 posted 01-13-2015 02:44 PM 1474 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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85 posts in 1461 days

01-13-2015 02:44 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip walnut clamp jointer joining modern

I just finished gluing up some 8/4 walnut for a bar top that I am making for my new home. I’m not sure exactly how to attach the angled joints to one another. I have glued up 3 pieces, that will have to be joined together. The finished thickness is just under 2” and 15” wide. I have considered using pocket screws on the bottom along with glue to pull the pieces together. I’m just not sure if this will pull the joint together tight enough. I have also considered using miter bolts and routing a recess in the bottom and glue. I’m new to this kind of stuff and just not sure how it’s done. Will glue alone be enough to hold the joint? The top turned out really nice and I’m nervous about the joints…and cutting them. I am planning to use a circular saw along with a straight edge to make the cuts.? REALLY nervous about this as well. I have attached a picture of the island that this is going on to give an idea of what I’m trying to explain. If anyone has any experience with this sort of thing, I would really like to hear your ideas. Thanks!

-- Mike Chaffin - Past-Time Woodworks

6 replies so far

View ChefHDAN's profile


1062 posts in 2843 days

#1 posted 01-13-2015 02:59 PM

I’d go with these Knape & Vogt joint fastners they are a much stronger mechanical fastner than the economy version that is routed in or pocket whole screws,

BTW nice clamps, they look like some i got from my father in law, heavy as hell and goofy strong compression

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2684 days

#2 posted 01-13-2015 03:10 PM

I have done it the way you are considering but the next one will be one odd shaped panel cut to fit the base for a “one piece” top. A cleaner look and you won’t have to worry about getting those angled joints perfect IMHO.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View mc269's profile


85 posts in 1461 days

#3 posted 01-13-2015 03:23 PM

Thanks for the replies. I haven’t heard of those fasteners but it seems they would work really well. I’m assuming it would be best to use the drill guide they make. It looks like it’s designed for 3/4” stock, would this still work on 2” thick stock or would I need to recess the holes deeper in the wood to make sure it pulls tight on the top?

-- Mike Chaffin - Past-Time Woodworks

View AlaskaGuy's profile


4121 posts in 2303 days

#4 posted 01-13-2015 07:18 PM

If you decide to use ChefHDAN method (which is a good one) don’t skimp on the hardware. Don’t buy the cheap connectors at the box store. And, use a blind spline for alignment.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View mc269's profile


85 posts in 1461 days

#5 posted 01-13-2015 08:09 PM

I think I will attach using this method. Thanks for the videos, very helpful!

-- Mike Chaffin - Past-Time Woodworks

View WDHLT15's profile


1741 posts in 2470 days

#6 posted 01-13-2015 08:13 PM


I just did exactly what you need to do. I used staggered pocket screws (alternating on each side of the joint) on the bottom side, and used biscuits to align the two pieces perfectly. Used glue on the joint, and the pocket screws did pull the joint together nicely.

I also cut the angles with a skillsaw and a guide. One cut was not the best with some gaps when I put the two pieces together. I ran the more ragged side over the jointer, and that did the trick. When I get back home the day after tomorrow, I will post a pic. Mine was 14” wide, 2” thick maple. The angle was about 60 degrees.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln.

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