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Forum topic by 2007rusty posted 03-20-2009 02:32 AM 1885 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2007rusty

35 posts in 3295 days


03-20-2009 02:32 AM

I have a Delta Unisaw and I would like to put the router table on the out feed end. the table saw is set at 35” tall and the router table is 34” tall. I do not want to lower the router table because it is at a very comfortable height. The router table has a fence and dust chute attached. These protrude 5”. I do not want to remove this because of the complexity and I use them frequently, The router table and chute are made by Freud. What i would like to do is be able to slide the router unit under the existing table saw extension, then have the cabability of raising the router table back to the correst height of 34”. Any advice would be appreciated. Rusty

-- I know all about hard work. It's that R & R I need to learn


7 replies so far

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#1 posted 03-25-2009 03:31 AM

You may not want to go this route, but what I did due to lack of space to have a dedicated router table setup I incorporate the router table into the extension table of my Unisaw. I know it’s probably been done a thousand times and a thousand ways, but I thought I share how I did it.

This was my second endeavor in it. I had purchased a new lift plate so took the opportunity to redo the whole thing. The extension table that came with the Unisaw that my original router lift plate was on was not beefy enough and over time curved and warped, not due to the router insert either. So I built a new table top, using 3/4” particle board and laminating 3/4” particle board ribbing to the underside to stiffen it. Then also framed it with angle iron and laminated the top with Delta Gray Formica.

It is one rock solid router table.

There is a pictorial of the building process at this link:

http://www.curtronics.com/WoodWork/UniSawExTable/index.html

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#2 posted 03-25-2009 10:24 AM

Thanks. Yeah, well, I don’t take the time to document all my projects, wish I did, but well when I do, i do…

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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2007rusty

35 posts in 3295 days


#3 posted 03-25-2009 02:04 PM

The router needs to be on the out feed tabel. I have the table saw against the wall on the right side. thanks for your input

-- I know all about hard work. It's that R & R I need to learn

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#4 posted 03-25-2009 04:46 PM

Could you incorporate the router table into the out feed table? Or raise it an inch and use it as the out feed table? I built an out feed table too, torsion box design for stability. I hinged it at the back of the Unisaw to swing down out of the way but to tell you the truth I never swing it down.

In looking at Freud Router Table offerings their tables appear to be only the top with metal legs and not a cabinet type, if that is what you have could you attach it to the end (or side) of your out feed table with hinges and swing it down when not in use? Again it be only an inch higher when in use and out of the way when not. Or (and this is more involved, not sure if you want to spend the time) build an out feed table with an area recessed down the thickness of the router table top and drop the router table top in the out feed table like you drop the router plate insert into the router table.

But that gets back to the fence assembly that you don’t want to remove getting in the way for the table saw out feed. Unless you remove the router table from this spot in the out feed table and stand it up against the wall or under the out feed table when not in use and have a board the same size and thickness to replace it in the out feed table so the out feed table has a continuous flush surface.

Sounds like with the height of the router table then the 5” additional height of the fence assembly you have to drop it 5” plus the thickness of the out feed table to get it under the out feed table, that’s quite a bit.

Harbor Freight has some Hydraulic Lift Tables, I just picked one up this week that goes from 9” high to 27” you could probably incorporate that, at $169 a pricey solution. I managed to pick it up on sale for $129 and then applied an additional 15% off coupon which brought it down to $110, but I think the sale ended Monday. Only two of the wheels of the table lock so I don’t know how stable that would be.

Or you could cut down the legs on the router table so that it slides under the out feed table then build a base that you put the table on when you want to use it that brings it back up to the desired height. Don’t know how heavy the table is and whether you want to lift it on the base all the time.

Just throwing out some ideas that I would consider if I were trying to accomplish what you are..

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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2007rusty

35 posts in 3295 days


#5 posted 03-26-2009 02:52 PM

Blankman,

I see you go into great detail with your projects. The end result shows. Your correct. The Freud table is on metal legs with a 5” projection for the dust chute. My plan is to build a cabinet and keep the table top with the chute. The hydralic lift is a good idea. For all that I do and how I do it, the best location for the router table is next to the table saw, along with the joiner, planer and belt sander. The mian line for the dust collection is there also. This does keep most of the dust in one location. The miter saw is located 20’ away with its own dust line, close to the assembly table. I designed and laid out this space specifially for how I work and the projects that I build. Not saying I wouldn’t change things. Wood magazine has a lift system in issue 178, Sept. 2007 that looked good. Take a look at that. Thanks

-- I know all about hard work. It's that R & R I need to learn

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Woodchuck1957

944 posts in 3232 days


#6 posted 03-26-2009 03:17 PM

I contimplated adding a router table to my saw as well a couple years ago, I decided against it. What workes best for me is a portable router table. When I need it, I sit it ontop of the extension table of the saw. If it gets in the way while useing the saw, I just simply remove it without haveing to change the settings.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2821 days


#7 posted 03-27-2009 10:21 PM

Rusty, I was thinking, since you plan on build a cabinet, build it such that when the router table top is sitting on top of the cabinet it fits under the extension table. Then attach 4 rails to the underside of the top at the 4 corners of the cabinet that have slots in them that a thumb screw goes through the slot and tightens the rails to the cabinet at the 4 corners. When you want to use it, roll it out, lift the top to the height you want and tighten the thumb screws locking it in place.

You could even add springs so that when you loosen the thumb screws the table comes up on its own, no clumsy heavy lifting, and you then have to push it down and lock it in the down position for storage.

Below is a crude drawing, the black things being the thumb screws,

Lift Top Router Table Sketch

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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