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MDF shooting boards?

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Forum topic by Brett posted 01-12-2015 10:49 PM 1333 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brett

660 posts in 2150 days


01-12-2015 10:49 PM

Has anyone here made a shooting board from MDF? I’ve come across several sources that recommend MDF for the base (but hardwood for the stops), but I wonder how well the edge of the MDF stands up to the plane and whether the MDF itself causes excessive wear on the plane.

-- More tools, fewer machines.


9 replies so far

View Tim's profile

Tim

3119 posts in 1429 days


#1 posted 01-13-2015 12:41 AM

Paul Sellers in his video mentioned he uses a plywood board that came with a bonded “hardened surface”. The surface (a type of plastic I assume) reduces the friction. MDF would work for flatness, but maybe someone can recommend a specific product with a surface like Paul recommends.

Here’s the video btw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ypbvcxb-8M

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SteveHas

11 posts in 1066 days


#2 posted 01-13-2015 12:49 AM

I would take a look at a video by Rob Cosman.
He uses an mdf shooting board and the way it is designed only the “cheeks” of the plane run on the mdf. The cutter never touches it, plus the fence at 90 or what ever angle the shooting board is designed for never contacts the blade neither. I use it on almost any task in my shop. I always finish with the shooting board even after my diablo blade cuts it at the table saw. Nothing is cleaner than shooting with a nice sharp blade.

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Derek Cohen

296 posts in 3436 days


#3 posted 01-13-2015 02:55 PM

As long as you (1) seal the MDF to prevent the incursion of moisture, and (2) add a hardwood edge, then you can use MDF …

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

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Bill White

4459 posts in 3428 days


#4 posted 01-13-2015 03:09 PM

I made mine from Extera brand exterior grade mdf. More dense and stable (and heavy).
Sanded, shellac, waxed, done.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Bill White

4459 posts in 3428 days


#5 posted 01-13-2015 03:09 PM

I made mine from Extera brand exterior grade mdf. More dense and stable (and heavy).
Sanded, shellac, waxed, done.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Bill White

4459 posts in 3428 days


#6 posted 01-13-2015 03:11 PM

Dang double post. Sorry.

-- bill@magraphics.us

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1042 days


#7 posted 01-16-2015 02:47 AM



Paul Sellers in his video mentioned he uses a plywood board that came with a bonded “hardened surface”. The surface (a type of plastic I assume) reduces the friction. MDF would work for flatness, but maybe someone can recommend a specific product with a surface like Paul recommends.

Here s the video btw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ypbvcxb-8M

- Tim


Formica is the hard plastic surface

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ksSlim

1204 posts in 2357 days


#8 posted 01-16-2015 08:35 AM

Mine is Melamine over Baltic ply piece.
Hardwood stops. If you apply Melamine to Baltic. Do both surfaces DAMHIK.
Even good ply can warp if not properly stored.
My last one has been in use for over 20 yrs.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

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Sylvain

639 posts in 1967 days


#9 posted 01-18-2015 04:09 PM

P. Sellers uses a plywood made for concrete formwork.
the faces are covered with a slippery plastic which looks like bakelite.
Available in all “home improvement” shops in Belgium.
Not so many wooden houses here.

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

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