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Question about jointer planes

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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 01-12-2015 05:28 PM 852 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joel_B

294 posts in 841 days


01-12-2015 05:28 PM

I have been looking at Stanley no 7 jointer planes on ebay and some have a corrugated bottom.
Is there any difference between corrugated and smooth in actual use?
I am thinking corrugated might have less friction on a large flat surface.
One thing I might use it for is jointing very thin edges (about 5mm thick) for guitar bodies and I am worried that the edges on the corrugated bottom might be a detriment by catching the edge of the thin wood.

Edit: Paul Seller’s doesn’t like them:

https://paulsellers.com/2012/10/questions-answered-on-corrugated-soles/

Thanks

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA


8 replies so far

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sikrap

1121 posts in 2819 days


#1 posted 01-12-2015 07:49 PM

My opinion is that there is no difference in use other than the corrugations catching when edge jointing. Also, if you need/want to flatten the sole, the corrugated is a little easier/quicker because you’re removing less metal.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

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BubbaIBA

383 posts in 1837 days


#2 posted 01-12-2015 09:14 PM


I have been looking at Stanley no 7 jointer planes on ebay and some have a corrugated bottom.
Is there any difference between corrugated and smooth in actual use?
I am thinking corrugated might have less friction on a large flat surface. One thing I might use it for is jointing very thin edges (about 5mm thick) for guitar bodies and I am worried that the edges on the corrugated bottom might be a detriment by catching the edge of the thin wood.

Edit: Paul Seller s doesn t like them:

https://paulsellers.com/2012/10/questions-answered-on-corrugated-soles/

Thanks

- Joel_B

If one of your intended uses is jointing edges a 7C would not be a plane I would expect to work well. You should look for a #8 or #7 with out the “C”. BTW, a little wax takes care of the friction issue.

ken

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OSU55

1056 posts in 1450 days


#3 posted 01-12-2015 09:47 PM

The corrugated soles were another Stanley marketing gimmick, supposedly to reduce friction. They don’t (a little wax as previously mentioned does that), and they limit the particular tool because of edge catches. The only “C” I have is a #2C I inherited from my dad, and it’s the only one I will have.

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DanielS

123 posts in 1397 days


#4 posted 01-12-2015 09:49 PM

I have a 7C and a smooth sole 8. They both work well for jointing. I use the one that is sharpest first, so they’re used interchangeably. The thinnest stock I’ve used either on is 3/8. Anthing I’ve done as thin as 5 mm was short, so I used a smaller plane.

-- Daniel S

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MikeUT

123 posts in 819 days


#5 posted 01-12-2015 11:04 PM

I have a No 7 and a 608C. I reach for the larger plane 9 times out of 10 but that’s because its a bedrock and I also like the extra mass. I do have a few number 5’s both with and without corrugations and personally I can’t tell much of a difference. The ‘C’ doesn’t play in much to my buying decision. I can see your concern about the plane being wobbly on the top of a thin surface but on a guitar top you’d have that problem either way. I haven’t made a guitar but if I did I would definitely use a shooting board. Here is a pretty good demonstration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xOJAjdGZUY

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Don W

17955 posts in 2028 days


#6 posted 01-14-2015 01:00 AM

There is not much difference. I find a C tends to pinch my finger in the groove slightly if jointing thin stock, but I’m the only one I’ve ever heard that from and its nothing that would stop me from using one.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1035 days


#7 posted 01-16-2015 02:26 AM

Some had a oiler in the handle to make planing easier.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17955 posts in 2028 days


#8 posted 01-16-2015 02:35 AM

If you find one with the oiler, hang onto it well.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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