Building a bed!

All the beds we ever sold had 135mmx19mm or 135×30mm siderails with knockdown fittings from Hafele and 90×19mm slats. Head and foot panels are up to you as it will depend on your design but all ours were 30mm thickness. we also used Hafeles maxicam knockdown fittings as we had to box the beds for shipping. I have them on my pencil post bed and swear by them. It really doesn,t matter what sizes you use ,its the design thats important. Once you have that then buy your stock to suit.

-- if the hand is not working it is not a pure hand

Hi. It’s Charles, right? As kiwi states, you can decide on sizes but there are some considerations. Have you considered how you want the bed to disassemble? For example, when I made my king size bed (see my home page), I opted for bed rail fasteners that are mortised and screwed into the side of the rail and post. If you go that route you want the rails to be beefy and hefty enough to leave a good amount of stock around the fastener. In other words, you probably want to avoid 1X stock for rails and go with at least 5/4 stock. As for the posts and head and foot boards, it’s up to you how small or large an appearance you are interested in. For a king size bed I opted for beefy looking posts but I didn’t want the bed to be overly heavy so I went with 1X stock for the actual head and foot boards as I was comfortable with the look against the thicker posts. When I purchased my mattress, it was sold with a metal brace that runs across the bed, attaching to the side rails, so I didn’t have slat concerns. This will be different if you are making a Queen size, double or twin bed.

Are you making the bed and will then make bureaus to match or are you going to match the bed to bureaus you already have? I designed my head and foot boards with a graceful arch to compliment the arch in the mirror I made for my wife’s dresser. Lots to think about and consider but that’s a big part of the fun of what we do. Good luck Charles.

-- And on the eighth day God was back in His woodworking shop!

I usually go for either 5/4 or 6/4 thick by 6” minimum width on the rails. I use a 1.5”x1.5” ledge glued and screwed to the rails to support the slats. If you are building a queen or king side make sure you add a short post under some of the slats to prevent sagging. As Lenny said, the posts can be any size. I would not go smaller than 2×2. Avoid surface mounted hardware if you can. A good 3/8” bed bolt with a cross dowl will hold thing together and it disassembles readily. Have either a short tenon on the end of your rails or some 1/2” dowels to keep the rails from twisting under load.

Lenny I am just going to build a bed! I am doing a full size bed. I though 5/4 was the best for the legs. I wont to use bed rail fasteners.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

It depends on the style and whether or not you use a steel bed frame and only build a headboard, you can get away with 4×4’s, 2×4’s and 1×4’s or solid sheeting depending on what you are looking for. For a full mattress frame the ideas above are great.

-- jack -- measure once, curse twice!

Hey neighbor, There are some good patterns out there via internet. I use them as rough guides for a lot of my work. When I was in the Chicago shop several people made beds of many different designs and sizes. Once a young woman built a nice set of bunk beds out of Maple. She had never done a project on her own, and developed her interest from working with her Grandfather years earlier.

I think the post should be at least 2 1/2 inch and as Lenny and Vince said, 5/4 for rails prevents problems. As I recall we got good mounting hardware from Rockler that had to be mortised in. I don’t remember what it was called but it look typical only heavier.

Good luck Roz

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

Hey Charles – I usually browse the furn. stores and take photo’s of designs I like then try to improve on them. You will quickly see how thinner rails can be a real disadvantage. Take along a tape measure and clipboard – the sales associates usually leave you alone lol. Once I have my photo’s and measurements its off to “sketchup land”

-- Doc Hanson - www.ripnchisel.com

Is Poplar strong enough for a Bed?

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

A good basic structure for a bed can be seen on these plans
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273341.html

Charles, Poplar is strong enough for the bed, but there’s not much grain, color or figure in it. So unless you are going to paint it you might want to try another wood.

-- -JimmyC...Clayton,NC- "Just smile and wave boys, smile and wave"

Hey, great link, marcb!

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

Right Charles, as JimmyC states, if you plan to paint the bed versus stain it, poplar is fine. Most woodworkers and furniture makers use poplar as a secondary (unseen parts) wood or for painted projects. If you plan to stain the project, you want to go with oak, pine, maple, cherry,...gee seems to be plenty of alternatives huh?

-- And on the eighth day God was back in His woodworking shop!

Charles,

I just love Dorje’s cherry platform bed! It is simple in design, and very elegant! Just a great project.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6049

-- Matt, Houston Texas

Yes it do Lenny, and thanks guys for the help.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker