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Removing paint from wood project

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Forum topic by Elvin posted 03-14-2009 02:11 AM 1774 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Elvin

71 posts in 2865 days


03-14-2009 02:11 AM

I completed my mantel and surround and then painted it with water base primer and semi gloss white finish. Well the paint I used was Sherman Williams and after the first coat it wasn’t blending and left a lot of brush marks and skipping. I gave the project a light sanding and applied a second coat and again had the same problem. I called the paint store and they told me the paint has a very fast drying time and once you put it on don’t try to blend it. They also stated that you can only put it on in 2-4 inch sections at a time. Well now the project is in really bad shape and I feel I just want to remove this paint and lacquer spray a new primer and semi gloss finish. Any suggestions on removing the newly applied paint? Should I sand it to bare wood or get some paint stripper? I am really at a loss and as you can tell I am not a professional finisher or at this stage of the game any type of finisher because I am not finished.
Any help appreciated,
El

-- Elvin, Southern California, "How great would life be if we lived a little of it everyday"


9 replies so far

View cmaeda's profile

cmaeda

205 posts in 3020 days


#1 posted 03-14-2009 06:25 AM

If you have a hand plane, it would work. I have a “beater” #5 hand plane just for situations like these.
On furniture, I wouldn’t use paint meant for houses. I have had bad luck with these. Use furniture paint.

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3566 days


#2 posted 03-14-2009 07:06 AM

I use a card scraper for removing paint and finish when refinishing. Sanding is difficult to do because the latex is rubbery and not hard. One of the paint scraper tools may work well too.

I like using Sherwin Pro-Classic latex or Pittsburg Paint Manor Hall. These paints are latex but they dry hard like oil. They have great application performance in that they glide on and self level very well. I prefer spraying whenever possible. This avoids the blending and brush mark issues.

Brush marks can be avoided by a couple of things. Make sure the brush is properly loaded with product and you might try adding a little Floetrol latex paint additive. Floetrol conditions the paint so that it has a longer open time and it helps alleviate the lap marks, it is not the same as thinning the paint with water, it is better. This product also helps the paint level out to get rid of brush marks.

One of the benefits of latex is the quick dry time. This obviously can work against you by creating the problems that you have had.

There may be no single answer here but rather a combination of these; using Floetrol, loading the brush properly, having a good painting sequence plan, and moving quickly.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3566 days


#3 posted 03-14-2009 07:08 AM

I agree with cmaeda. The paints that I recommended are not used on walls, but rather trim and doors. Professionally speaking, this is the paint that many use on projects like your mantle.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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Elvin

71 posts in 2865 days


#4 posted 03-14-2009 09:51 AM

Thank you I appreciate your advice and I will let you know what happens.

-- Elvin, Southern California, "How great would life be if we lived a little of it everyday"

View Todd Thomas 's profile

Todd Thomas

4969 posts in 2915 days


#5 posted 03-14-2009 12:51 PM

Like Todd said scraper works…I’ve redone allot of old mantels and doors, 60 to 70 years worth of paint…so I don’t know if this will help…..I will use a heat gun with a scraper that you can get with the heat gun…...it seems to work the fastest for me…In TN we do allot of painted trim, mantels, bookcases, and so on in the homes we work on and Todd is right on about SW Pro Classic…great paint I’ve never had a problem, spraying is the best if you can, but the Floetrol that Todd talks about works great, make latex paint more “oil like” in regards to open or drying time and brush marks….I have not heard of a SW product or any paint that you have to work a small 2-4 inch area at a time….what was the name of that product? I want to make sure I avoid it at all cost…. also when priming bare wood, primer will dry/absorb fast….good luck let us know how it turns out

-- Todd, Oak Ridge, TN, Hello my name is Todd and I'm a Toolholic, I bought my last tool 10 days, no 4 days, oh heck I bought a tool on the way here! †

View Don Butler's profile

Don Butler

1086 posts in 2862 days


#6 posted 03-14-2009 03:14 PM

Sometimes I use a roller on paint I brushed on to eliminate brush marks and overlaps. It’s especially useful on vertical surfaces where self leveling isn’t as good.
d

-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3594 days


#7 posted 03-14-2009 04:42 PM

I have been using a gentle paint stripper called Soy-Gel.

Soy-Gel

I agree that Floetrol from Flood will help increase the open time for your paint.

Floetrol

-- 温故知新

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3566 days


#8 posted 03-14-2009 04:49 PM

I agree with using the heat gun. I use the heat gun or propane torch (with care) as needed. Paint peels right off.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

View Elvin's profile

Elvin

71 posts in 2865 days


#9 posted 03-14-2009 05:37 PM

Todd, Randy,Don & Todd, Thanks for taking the time to respond it is a big help with several options.
El

-- Elvin, Southern California, "How great would life be if we lived a little of it everyday"

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