So, I take the shop-vac and prop the table saw back off it’s stand (Hitachi work site saw c10fr,) undoing the bolts so I can mount it onto a shop made stand. Blowing with the air compressor and getting sawdust out of nooks and crannies and generally cleaning it up to mount on the stand clean.
After I set it on the stand, NOT bolted down, just starting it up because I’ve heard these things might be sensitive sometimes, and it doesn’t start. I checked the reset button and nothing, no resistance or anything. It’s a sealed fuse box basically, so I can’t just check and change a fuse it that’s the problem. I jumped the two wires going into the reset button/fuse box but nothing, so I’m guessing it’s not that that’s the problem, but something in the motor which was working fine yesterday, you know when it was dirty and filled with sawdust…
UGH! I obviously can’t cut anything, and Hitachi s giving me the runaround telling me they find no proof that I registered the product which I did immediately upon receiving it for a gift. (I wouldn’t buy a Hitachi tablesaw if it was my choice, because it’s way too proprietary as to the miter slot and crappy fence and a few other things. BUT that’s what I was given. It’s not like I can just go out and buy a new saw, and no I don’t need suggestions to go buy another one.
Has anyone ever had any problems like this? is it from tipping the saw to clean it? That doesn’t really make much sense, since it’s made to break down and be pulled along on the wheels which would tilt the motor also.
I thought cleaning the dust from the motor would be a good thing, but it doesn’t seem it is after all.
-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric
hey thug check your switch with all that dust flying it may have compromised a contact ,is power getting to the switch is power coming out the end ? if so your problem isnt electric .
-- when a tree falls in the forest.......Quebec ,Canada
You probably blew a wire clip off, or worse case broke a wire by blowing into the motor. If you ar going to try to fix it yourself it’s motor dissassembly time and see what you see. I don’t know how that motor is constructed, but some motors also have electrical contacts inside and possibly you blew a chip of wood between the contacts.
In the old days you could take the motor to a motor repair shop, but I don’t know if those places exist anymore in our throwaway world. I doubt that there is an off the shelf motor for that application so it would seem that you have to work with Hitachi – or you know buy a “better” saw.
A lesson learned the hard way – use compressed air judiciously. In my former life one of my buddies was a machine shop manager and he had a rule for the shop – never clean a machine tool with compressed air. Granted, that was in metal cutting shop, but some of the same principles apply in a wood shop as well.
I think Joe is onto your problem. Many motor have a starter contacts that are centrifugally operated. The contacts have to touch when the motor comes to a stop- so it will start the next time. When the motor is started, the spinning of the armature causes the contacts to open. Maybe the air pressure forced a chip between the contacts. I had an old Sears Radial Arm that did this on a regular basis. If you still have the motor on the bench, try spinning the shaft by hand. If it is the starter switch, the motor may run if you manually start it.
As I reread your post, and I don’t mean to insult you, did you try pressing the wire into the back of the power plug? If the wire failed at the junction of the plug strain relief and the cord, it would cause this. This is a weak spot on any cord and can fail easily especially when unplugging the cord.
-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
Joe, you’re right, lesson learned. I have an older Craftsman Contractors saw still, so all is not totally lost, yet.
Les, not an insult at all. I’m no electrician at all, and I actually had to go to my Step Father house a mile or so away, to get his voltage meter, ( and school me on it). I’m about to try seeing if there’s voltage going through all the way, and if I can’t get things going, I’ll take the motor to him and we’ll pull it apart and check things out. As for the other part, I’m not sure what you mean. Do you mean the contact on the on off switch? Those are all pushed on tightly. I do know from testing the reset switch that the circuit is ok there, just have to go to the actual wires now.
-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric
I am new here so my thoughts are probably not worth too much. But when I was drivig a big truck and had an alternater going out, I would whack it a couple of times with a hardwood stick and get a lot more miles out of it. Worth a try. Just a thought. :o)
-- TheShadeTreeWW If God wanted me to touch my toes, he'd have put them on my knees
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