Ridgid TS3650

you mean between the fence rails next to the extension wing?

I’d like more details on designing a table board as well. Recent saw aquisitions and a 52” rail means I’ll need one, and the saw top is larger than normal so I can’t just purchase deltas.

My solution was this

Just a piece of 3/4” MDF edged with 1 1/2” cherry (the thickness of the saw table) and laminated. I rabbeted the cherry to accept the MDF and mitered the corners. After laminating the top, I routed the top with a 45 degree bit to kill the sharp edge so stock would not hang up. I drilled holes for bolts to fit the existing table extension and the fence rails front and back. I finished the sides and bottom with 3 coats of polyurethane to limit moisture absorption and keep it from warping.

Eventually, I want to build a table saw workstation to provide more mass and support under the extension. Legs would work too.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

You could get a piece of melamine covered MDF, a piece of formica countertop or good plywood, build a frame (about 1 1/2×3) around the perimeter to match the width between the front and back rails and whatever length you want and attach that between the rip fence rails. You’d have to check the bolt size that fits the slot in the rails—I think it’s 1/4 but could be 5/16; it’s been a little while since I mounted my router table to my 3660. I used four bolts, 1 1/4 inch, I believe, and four 1×3 inch mending plates (the type used to reinforce screen doors, etc.) to mount the table. I drilled holes just deep enough into the frame around the table to hold the nut and bolt and then routed a relief channel to the bottom edge of the frame. I then cut a rabbett the depth of the mending plate thickness along side the channel. Slide the bolt head into the fence rails, put the mending plate and nut on and make them just tight enough that you can still move them. Drop the table in from the top, angle the plates into the rabbett and run screws into the frame. I also drilled the end of the cast iron wing and ran three 1/4 inch lag bolts into the frame.

I’ll have to check the other computer tomorrow to see if I have pics of the install, or take some pics of the installed router table.

-- John, co-owner Sawdust 'n Stitches

EEngineer,

Looking at yours for some reason I suddenly remembered the Powermatic “Work Bench” option where they made one out of laminated maple.

I got a bunch of maple strips off of a fellow Lumber jock recently. i think I might go that route.

A while back I posted some pics when I did this to my saw. I did install a router but it isn’t necessary of course. Here is the link, there’s some pics that help explain how to do it. If you have any questions just shout.

I looked at the rails again, and lo & behold, there are slots. Thanks

-- Deep Thoughts: If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.

Nevbob-

The fence on your 3650 is almost exactly the same as what I have on my saw (a Ridgid AC1036). There are T-slots on both the front and back rails. As jeh412 said, it is just big enough to trap the head of a 5/16” bolt and keep it from turning. My extension design was simpler than his; all I did was drill holes in the extension, put nuts and washers on the inside and slide the entire assembly in from the end of the fence. The slots in the fence keep the bolt heads from turning and I just tightened the nuts up on the inside.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"