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Forum topic by NeoDon posted 03-12-2009 05:23 PM 1111 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View NeoDon's profile


49 posts in 3401 days

03-12-2009 05:23 PM

Hello All,

I need some advise. The woods I am stuck with in building my new bathroom vanity are
Douglas Fir, Cherry and plywood, as you know the Fir is not that hard but I have read that it is acceptable.
It will be used for the legs. I was wondering if i should use tung oil first or sanding sealer first, in order to harden the the woods exterior? or should I just polystain it.


4 replies so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3816 days

#1 posted 03-12-2009 05:44 PM

You could go with either the tung oil or the sanding sealer first. If you are using a tung oil that lists petroleum distillates on the label then it is a tung oil, varnish mix. This will produce a hard topcoat finish. If it is 100% pure tung oil this is a penetrating finish that will produce a relatively soft topcoat to which you may need to add a protective topcoat, if you want. But the sanding sealer should be added first to prevent blotching if you are using a tung oil/varnish mix.

I have only used Miniwax’s polyurethane/stain product that is sold under the label of polyshade. It is a product that I have found difficult to get a good finish with. The problem with applying a sanding sealer and/or tung oil is that if your intent is to color the wood then these will seal the wood and your staining may not be effective. These are really designed to be used on bare wood.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View rickf16's profile


390 posts in 3576 days

#2 posted 03-12-2009 06:09 PM

Questions: Do you have enough cherry to do the entire vanity? Is the plywood cherry? Can you use the fir as a secondary wood where it will not be seen? If not, you could wrap the fir in cherry there by gaining cherry legs. Also if one side of the vanity will be against a wall, you could just use an upper and lower cleat of fir to screw into the studs. Just my 2 cents.

-- Rick

View Francisco Luna's profile

Francisco Luna

943 posts in 3388 days

#3 posted 03-12-2009 06:20 PM

You can do both things at once, applying the Tung oil with a scotch-Britte type pad, I recommend to use Pure Tung oil.
As the pad is abrasive, it will leave the wood smooth. Just make sure to get the gray ones (woodcraft) since green ones (cleaning) release the green color on the wood.

-- Nature is my manifestation of God. I go to nature every day for inspiration in the day's work. I follow in building the principles which nature has used in its domain" Frank Lloyd Wright

View NeoDon's profile


49 posts in 3401 days

#4 posted 03-12-2009 06:54 PM

I have used the scotch-brite pads in the past, both green and gray and you are right the green do leave
particles behind.

The legs, two and a half of which will be seen are compound curve that I emulated from the WoodWhispers l
Leo La port Gadget Station. The tops are not angled though. So I am going to Kregg the legs to the plywood and make the face frame and other parts from the cherry. The two front doors will be made of cherry and plywood substrate for the amboyna burl veneer I am re sawing for them.

Hope none of this is wrong cause it’s what I got to work wit and no more $$$ for NeoDon as the Job is about to let me go and, well no more cash says the Ladie. “My Beautiful Wile”.

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