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| Forum topic by poroskywood | posted 241 days ago | 1674 views | 1 time favorited | 15 replies | ![]() |
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241 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: question cherry finishing Project is Curly Cherry table. I have and like the Watco danish oil, I want to protect the top with a few layers of Minwax wipe on poly. I want a natural finish and to keep it simple. Can I put the Minwax wipe on poly over the danish oil finish? Or can I try to layer the danish oil finish? Would the oil finish and some paste wax be enough? Am I completly wrong here, should I be approaching this differently. Like Rocklers Wunder-coat finish? I have only ever used water based poly with my sprayer and just do not want that thick plastic look for this table. Thanks -- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott |
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241 days ago |
I don’t know what wipe on poly is (water or oil based) but oil based poly is compatible with other oil based finishes. Danish oil and wax would not offer a lot of protection if the table will ever see moisture. Basically I require lacquer or better for day to day use furniture. If you want to use water based poly, I would think a coat of shellac over the danish oil (they make clear) would give you a good surface to apply the poly to. |
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241 days ago |
I put minwax wipe-on poly over Watco Danish oil all the time. It works fine. The only caveat is that you need to let the oil dry really well first. I recommend at least 72 hours. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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241 days ago |
Minwax poly is fine over Watco oil—I use it often. Just be sure to let the Watco dry at LEAST 72 hours, more if cool or damp. Darn Charlie, you type faster than me LOL -- http://www.grandprairiewoodworks.com http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6453794 |
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241 days ago |
I’ll second Charlie M’s statement. No problems as long as the oil has had sufficient time to fully dry. I built a dining room table for our house using cherry with Watco oil finish. I let the oil dry for 4 or 5 days then gave it 3 coats of Crystalac water-based finish http://www.mcfeelys.com/crystalac-waterborne. The table is about 4 years old and the finish looks as good as new. -- John, co-owner Sawdust 'n Stitches |
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241 days ago |
Wow, That was some quick advice, ok so my thought was with a wipe on poly I would be able to keep the coats thin and not wend up with a heavy layer on the surface of this piece. And it does not matter if the poly is water or oil based as long as i let the oil dry and harden for a week. I have never used Shellac, and I have always been under the impression that Oil based poly will yellow over time, so I have it in my head I don’t want to use oil based poly if i don’t have to. -- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott |
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241 days ago |
By the way I hope this web site will not effect my job preformance. My first day with you guys and i’ve already killed a hour and a half. -- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott |
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241 days ago |
Can one substitute the Watco danish oil with boiled linseed oil, then go with the wipe on poly? -- Martin, Gatineau, Québec |
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241 days ago |
Scott, I would stay away from water-based poly over the danish oil, if I were you. As a rule, one should not mix oil-based and water-based finishes on the same project. Oil-based poly has a slightly warmer tone than water-based, but I don’t think the dramtic yellowing yoiu’re worried about is a reality, especially with the thin wiped-on coats we’re talking about. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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241 days ago |
Martin, with respect to your question the answer is yes. BLO is a penetrating oil whereas danish oil is a mixture of BLO and varnish. Wipe on poly will go on just fine over BLO. -- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby. |
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238 days ago |
Just finished assembly of the Curly Cherry table. Thought I’d post some pics of it soaking in its fourth wet coat of danish oil. I’m going to wipe it off now and let it cure for the week. Next weekend I’ll apply 3 or so coats of that oil based wipe on poly I got. I also picked up some micro mesh sanding discs up to like 12000 so I’m super excited to put the final coats of poly on this. I’ll post the final results in my finished project space. ![]() ![]() -- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott |
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238 days ago |
Looks great so far! Are you goint to use a satin finish poly or a gloss? -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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238 days ago |
Thanks Charlie, I’ll use a satin. I can’t get past the reflection on glossy, a lot of the time you can not see the grain or curl especially if the sun is coming through the window, or your standing far away, the reflection of gloss covers up the piece. My hole house and all the wood in it is done in satin. Maybe I just do not know how to properly apply gloss. This has been my first attempt at anything other than water based poly. -- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott |
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237 days ago |
Just found this post and it is my exact question also…............ -- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/ |
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237 days ago |
The Watco will (almost) never dry. The poly very likely will not set up properly either, The bond between the Watco & the poly will surely fail. Basicly you will be doing some very messy stripping, sanding & refinishing. -- http://www.grandprairiewoodworks.com http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6453794 |
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237 days ago |
Thanks Tim, that’s what I was afraid of…............... it sounds like the “72 hrs” is an absolute must if you want success…........... -- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/ |
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