Lend me a hand

Sure – but I think a planer would be cheaper than a trip to Texas.

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

I,ve always wanted to go to america. If I put my jack plane in my luggage will you pay for the ticket?

-- if the hand is not working it is not a pure hand

Danny – you are always welcome in my shop! But, like Betsy, I’m probably a little too far away. If you can’t find an LJ nearby, you might contact a local cabinet shop – they might be willing to run it through a planer or sander for a small fee.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

where bouts are you ?

Danny, bring that board on by the shop anytime. Set sail due west on I-70 (for about 7 hours) then turn north for an hour.

I will have the coffee on for yah….oh yeah I will need you to do some sanding on my latest project for me while your here.

hehe….

Seriously now, surely one of the more local shops can help the man out, can’t yah?

Good Luck Friend
Trev

-- Trevor Premer Head Termite and Servant to the Queen - Heirloom Woodworking

I used to be in KC. Now in STL. would help but is all this not worth owning a planer. You can get reasonable one for $200-300 at HD or lowes, or even go cheap at Harbor Freight if you only have occasional use. Check Craigslist for a used. You won’t regret owning one. I think I spent $189 on my Ryobi, but I have since upgraded to a DW 735.

You could always build something like my router thickness planer, in about an hour or less, if you have all the stuff to build it. It’s cheaper and faster than buying a thickness planer or finding someone to let you use theirs. maybe? Just a thought.

-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric

I’m in the Gladstone area for those wanting to know.

I’m saving up for one for my shop right now. The problem is, I have a cutting board project that I kind of need to get delivered to a friend. I’ve done boards in the past and didn’t have much of a problem with getting it reasonably flat. For whatever reason on this one I’m having a heck of a lot of trouble.

There is just two blocks that seem to be out of alignment at one end. I’ve been at it with a bench plane, a belt sander, and an orbital sander but nothing seems to actually get it to even up. The entire rest of the board is flat, but this one space I can’t get. It’s kind of maddening.

~DB

P.S.: “Oldskoolmodder”, I like your router planer idea. I may resort to that when I get home tonight. I have one question, though: What bit do you use when you are planing?

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

I don’t want to answer for Oldskool, but I use a bowl and tray bit when I use the router for planing. The big diameter makes fast work of removing stock, and the rounded corners avoid ridges.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

Thanks, Peter!

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

Sure. The offer still stands – if you are ever in Idaho, come on by!

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

Peter O, I’ve never even thought about doing the planing with a bowl & tray bit. Now I will though. I’ve only used a straight bit (3/4”) and yes it can leave a ridge, which of course means you have to sand the top again. It IS cheaper than a planer, but with the cost savings comes a bit more time spent in finish sanding.

-- Respect your shop tools and they will respect you - Ric

Similar offer from out here on the left coast, but Google Maps tells me it’d be a bit over a day of driving each way.

Maybe we need some sort of geographical filter on requests for help?

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

Just thought I’d chime in – I think it’s great if we could actually help each other with tool usage etc. if we can find someone close by that will let us use their equipment and all.

BUT – is this an END GRAIN cutting board? I don’t know if I’d want to be running an end grain cutting board through a PLANER? be it mine/yours planer makes no difference here… I think either hand planing it, or the router technique is a much safer approach to everyone (Jocks, machines and lumber included) ;o)

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Planers don’t always work for flattening boards. They put pressure on the board anyway and that often ofsets what you are trying to accomplish. Router…best idea

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas

Stop by any time.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

I agree with Gary.

So I built a sled for the router and it worked pretty well. There was quite a bit of tear-out on the sides but I was able to run the board through a jointer and take care of it.

I’m not thrilled with the quick design I used to make my planer attachment. With the router being attached to the center of the sled, I wasn’t able to get the edges without detaching and moving the router. I’m planning on changing the design slightly by using a couple of metal “L” brackets to “fence” in the router on the center so it can mover from edge to edge. This will also stiffen and straighten the jig out and make it more accurate.

I’ll post a new project up on this over the weekend (when I’m at a computer that actually allows me to use Photobucket). One enhancement over this design is that I made the runners adjustable by attaching more boards via 3/4” dowels. I don’t do it justice so I’ll have to get you to look at it when I’m posted the project.

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/