Runout on Porter Cable drill press.

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Forum topic by skatefriday posted 01-04-2015 11:58 PM 1345 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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417 posts in 1481 days

01-04-2015 11:58 PM

I’m making some cabinet doors using Blum hinges so I
went out, bought an Amana 35mm boring bit from the
local cabinet maker’s supply place, chucked it into my
drill press and discovered that it was so wobbly I couldn’t
hold the material steady.

In the past I’ve never paid much attention as I haven’t really
used the press much and when I have, accuracy wasn’t paramount.

How do I fix this?


11 replies so far

View skatefriday's profile


417 posts in 1481 days

#1 posted 01-05-2015 12:10 AM

And here’s a video with the boring bit installed.

You can see it dances all over that dial.

View dawsonbob's profile


2856 posts in 1754 days

#2 posted 01-05-2015 12:22 AM

If it were me, I would consider taking it back and getting a new one. That’s way out of true. Way out.

-- Mistakes are what pave the road to perfection

View TheFridge's profile


9468 posts in 1485 days

#3 posted 01-05-2015 12:24 AM


-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2970 days

#4 posted 01-05-2015 12:47 AM

My Harbor Freight drill press beats the crap out of that.

I’d pull the chuck out and clean up the tapered spindle then try to reseat the chuck while spinning.
If that does not fix it I’d be taking that sucker back.
Can’t do any acurrate drilling with that.

View skatefriday's profile


417 posts in 1481 days

#5 posted 01-05-2015 12:59 AM

Unfortunately it’s sat in my garage for a few years prior to
the “hey I’m going to build myself cabinets” folly started, so
unfortunately I don’t think Lowe’s is going to take it back,
even if I could find the receipt.

Any solutions other than toss it and buy a new one? My Grizzly
catalog just arrived a couple days ago. Maybe that’s an omen.

Reseat while spinning? I had a problem a couple years ago
where the chuck came off the spindle while attempting to drill
out some metal. The bit bound, chuck came off. It was hard
after that to get the chuck to stay on, but it’s been on now for
a while.

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2970 days

#6 posted 01-05-2015 01:34 AM

Yes, I set it up to run real slow. then turn off and unplug.
Pull the chuck.
Clean both the male and female ends of the tapered spindle/chuck with solvent, WD40, mineral spirits, or whatever I have.
Some folks, at this point put a couple drops very light oil on the taper.
Now I plug in and start the DP without the chuck installed.
Be sure there are no loose clothing, hair, or other body parts in the way and carefully ease the chuck’s taper into the spindle, but not so far that it grabs and starts spinning.
Have a small hard oak board (6×6) ready to slide under the chuck that it can sit on without falling out of the spindle if you let go.
The next part is most important.
Holding the chuck loosely with my left hand I crank the feed down with my right.
Try to hold the chuck still and let the spindle spin against the chuck’s tapered shaft.
This helps to clear any debris out of the mating surfaces.
Gradually apply more pressure to the feed till I can’t hold the chuck any more. Let the chuck go.
Now using the feed I press the chuck onto the board as hard as I can. This seats the chuck into the taper.
At this point I should have a minimum amount of runout. If not, I have an expensive variable speed drum sander.

CAUTION. This is how I solved my runout problem. Not suggesting anybody else should try this.

View firefighterontheside's profile


18180 posts in 1855 days

#7 posted 01-05-2015 01:42 AM

In the meantime, drill your counterbores for the hinges with a handheld drill. That’s what I do anyway. Trying to put a whole door on the drill press table is a pain.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Redoak49's profile


3246 posts in 1987 days

#8 posted 01-05-2015 01:46 AM

I check my drill press using a short rod chucked put in the chuck. It appears that the outside of the chuck was only a couple thousandths. Are other bits that bad or just the forstner bit?

View REO's profile


928 posts in 2073 days

#9 posted 01-05-2015 02:31 AM

if the bit seized and the quill was still turning I would bet there is a burr on the mating surfaces. you can clean it up by filing ONLY where you find the burr on the quill and a tapered reamer in the bore of the chuck. or you can use a dremmel in the chuck and again be careful to grind ONLY where the burr is. I dry set chucks. back the jaws all the way open and set the chuck on the taper cover with a block of wood and rap upwards from the bottom of the board with a hammer.

View johnstoneb's profile


2915 posts in 2172 days

#10 posted 01-05-2015 02:59 AM

I think you have something in the chuck jaws preventing the bit from centering. or the bit is bent. You have a lot more movement on the bit than the chuck.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View skatefriday's profile


417 posts in 1481 days

#11 posted 01-05-2015 03:05 AM

I have had a bit seize and the chuck stop while the quill and/or spindle is
still turning, note that I’m fuzzy on the difference between the quill
and spindle. The first time it did that a couple years ago, it was difficult
to get the chuck to stay on the spindle.

The Amana bit does have a flat side on the shaft. If I position it so
that the chuck’s mating surfaces do not engage the flat portion of the
shaft then the wobble is significantly reduced, although still present.

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