uneven concrete floor in my shop...

So what is wrong with the plywood floor? If anything your floor sure sounds like a blessing on a bad back. My concrete floor just kills me.

I’ve seen an awful lot of broken vinyl tiles. They’re not good with heavy point loads, especially after they get old and brittle.

I like the hardboard suggestion. Seal it with polyurethane.

-- Steve B - New Life Home Improvement

Dennis. I agree the wood floor better on the back. My experience has been that plywood tends to delaminate after some use and especially moving things around. But I am not sure if there really is any other option other than the plank floor.

Dave. It will stay dry and I was thinking the same thing with the power to may table saw. Also why is that whenever one drops a tool with an edge on it, THE EDGE LANDS FIRST?

-- Mark, South Jersey

Thanks Steve
Sealing the hardboard with poly might be the way to go. I guess if a sheet were to get dug up it could be replaced…

-- Mark, South Jersey

You might try a painted plywood floor then if it gets too bad you could cover it later. It seems to me I heard about a shop that did that and they were happy with it. Then again I might have just been exposed to too many lacquer fumes.

Dennis
The painting would probably keep the ply from wearing too quickly. I may go that route. And like you suggested, add the tile later…

-- Mark, South Jersey

whats better then a concrete floor….....................just about any other kind of floor

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

Mark: There is a products at Lowes that is called Adventec (sp) It’s an OSB boasrd that is warrentied for 50 years or as long as it takes you to put it down. but it is semi water proof if I understand it. It’s 3/4 and very strong.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

I think a good grade of subflooring would be fine, even particle board if it is kept dry. #1, be sure you have good ventilation under there.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0

Hi Mark;

I, too would go with a painted plywood, but I would add sand to the paint. This will give you traction, as a painted floor can be quite slippery, especially with saw dust on it.

On some commercial projects we do in the construction business, we’re required to add sand to the paint, even on concrete surfaces, for the same reason.

And forget using Masonite for the same reason, unless you have the rough side up.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Apply 3/4 inch or so particle board. Screw it down with deck screws then paint it with water based porch and deck. Mine is done that way. The new porch and deck paints soak in like a stain. They don’t scratch and they clean easily. And Particle board is tough stuff, flat, smooth, and looks good painted. I painted my shop very light tan, and the floor a light grey. light colored dust from most of my wood, which does get and stick to them doesn’t show much till i clean it off. The paint I used is the water based porch and deck from Home Depot. Not too expensive but worked great. Amazing stuff. Doesn’t scratch or seem to wear much. Some of my tools are on wheels some I just lift one end and drag. scuff marks that clean but no scratches. Here is a picture of my floor from a recent project set.

If moisture is an issue then consider painting the underside and edges before you put it down.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://gagnerwebsite.com/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html

When I was pricing out my shed last summer Lowe’s had a 3/4” T&G plywood that was treated with some type of sealer and it was guaranteed not to rot or delaminate for 25 years. I wish I could remember what it was called. Suredry? Drylock something like that. It was more expensive than the standard T&G but worth it for the longevity, especially if I was storing items that were wet and snowy.

-- http://www.facebook.com/pages/DSO-Designs/297237806954248

Mark,
Do you even need the sleepers or could you put the plywood on the plastic bubble product that is used on the outside of foundations? There is even a flooring product that comes in 2×2 ft squares with some plastic bubbles on the back. I can’t remember if it is plywood or particle board.
Yes this would make a floating floor, but it might still be just as firm because you wouldn’t have the empty spaces between the sleepers.

You might try some self leveling concrete grout. The “stuff” comes in a 50 lb bag and you mix it with water to a “flowable consistency (sp) and just pour it out.This stuff is none shrink so what you pour is what you get
I have used this stuff to set a 45+ ton concrete wall on and never had any troubles.
I expect it’s rather expensie. but when you figure all the wood involved, it’s probably about the same

-- At the end of my life...When I meet my Maker...Will I be seen as...a giver or a taker

This has got me thinking of laying down a layer of the foam used under laminate floors. Covered with a sheet of 1/2 inch ply. Then another layer of foam and another layer of 1/2 ply. Stapled together to create a sore back friendly surface. The concrete is killing me.