Hardwood Floor Advice

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Forum topic by Thalweg posted 12-30-2014 04:11 AM 970 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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97 posts in 3406 days

12-30-2014 04:11 AM

I’m installing 3/4-inch oak flooring on a landing in our house. It’s an area about 14 ft X 5 ft. I made the mistake of buying #2 flooring. The quality is pretty poor. There are small cracks and worm holes. I’m debating on how to fill these cracks and holes. I was thinking about epoxy, but I was wondering what other folks have used in the past. Any suggestions?

I haven’t finished installing yet, so I haven’t sanded yet. I’m planning on staining a red mahogany color, and finishing with polyurethane.

Thanks for suggestions!

8 replies so far

View Bama70's profile


24 posts in 1316 days

#1 posted 12-30-2014 04:53 AM

If you have a hardwood dealer in your area they have fillers that work good. If not theirs a filler called Famowood Ace carries it in my area works good and stains well. I used to use this product when I was sanding and refinishing floors.

-- Stephen, Oxford, Alabama

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97 posts in 3406 days

#2 posted 12-30-2014 04:59 AM

Thank you Stephen. We’ve got no hardwood dealer within a few hundred miles, but we’ve got an ACE. I’ll look for the Famowood.

View fuigb's profile


482 posts in 2958 days

#3 posted 12-30-2014 04:59 AM


Lowes has first-quality Bruce hardwood for about four dollars a foot. Finished in a cinamon red. Unless economics are the deciding factor I’d get my money back on the #2 and invest in material that will not cause you to wince every time that you look at it. This is your home, right? Not a hunting cabin? Don’t use junk in your home, especially if this material is unstable and will sound like a symphony of. Pain when walked upon.

IF you have no choice but to use what you have then maybe a thorough sort/cull gets you down to useable material? As for repairing damage you need to share some pics so that it’s cleaxr what you’re up against, but a little wood-filler and colored wax crayons from Minwax do the trick. Usually. Know when to cut your loses is all that I’m saying.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

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97 posts in 3406 days

#4 posted 12-30-2014 05:09 AM

Actually, this project is to replace Bruce hardwood. We installed it about six years ago, and hate it. The reason I’m going with real hardwood is that it’s maintainable. If it gets damaged, I can sand it and refinish it. Not so with the Bruce. The next batch will be #1 quality. Lesson learned.

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9479 posts in 1486 days

#5 posted 12-30-2014 05:50 AM

Ohhh burn

Just kidding. Sorry. Saw the opening.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2690 days

#6 posted 12-31-2014 01:50 AM

I would NOT use wood filler as it will not stand up to foot traffic (MinWax type). Epoxy is more tedious to do but will hold up.

I have done both, so speaking from experience. :)

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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97 posts in 3406 days

#7 posted 12-31-2014 02:50 AM

Thanks gfadvm. That is a big part of why I asked the question. I thought epoxy would probably be the best choice, but looks like a lot of work. Fortunately, things are shaping up better than I thought they would. So there isn’t the need for too much filler.

I was looking at System Three’s Sculpwood, which is an epoxy product. I’ll have to get some and see what happens when I put stain on it. As long as it doesn’t stay lighter than the surrounding wood, I think it should work well.

View Hammerthumb's profile


2844 posts in 1975 days

#8 posted 12-31-2014 08:38 PM

The epoxy will not take stain. You can add colorant to it though.

Agree with gfadvm about the filler not standing up. Typical fillers used for hardwood flooring are grain fillers, not to be used to fill knot holes.

#2 common is allowed more defects, knots, and shorter lengths. I have #1 common in my house and love the variegation in color verses a select grade. Just defect out the undesirable portions of the board and install it. Make sure to keep the spacing of the end joints apart. This is a little harder with #2 as you will not find many long boards. It will make a beautiful floor.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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