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1/4" plywood glued into to 3/4"?

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Forum topic by HokieMojo posted 02-28-2009 12:20 AM 5131 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HokieMojo

2103 posts in 3195 days


02-28-2009 12:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question plywood veneering

I’ve got a question that I hope someone can help me with. I bought a couple sheets of 1/4” cherry plywood a coupld years ago before I knew anything about woodworking. Now that I’ve learned more, I’ve discovered that some of the projects I planned to use it for would be betterserved with 3/4” plywood.

My questions are:
Will I regret trying to attach 1/2 plywood to 1/4 inch to get to 3/4 inch (I know that plywood isn’t full thickness)
Could I do this without a vaccuum press to clamp the two sheets together

I can’t get 3/4 cherry near me without paying a ton in shipping so thats not much of an option. My alternative is to change the design pretty substantially, and I’d really rather not do that. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!


13 replies so far

View DannyBoy's profile

DannyBoy

521 posts in 3332 days


#1 posted 02-28-2009 12:30 AM

I’m not the expert, but I would think that you can do this. Isn’t this basically veneering?

If I were to do it, I would just make sure every foot or so had some pressure to it. On thinner pieces you can use clamps, but wider ones you can use bricks. I have some cinder blocks hanging around the shop for the same basic use.

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

View rickf16's profile

rickf16

387 posts in 3048 days


#2 posted 02-28-2009 12:41 AM

What are you plan on making with the plywood? You could use the 1/4 thickness if you build a frame using 3/4 thick stock.

-- Rick

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1546 posts in 3228 days


#3 posted 02-28-2009 12:45 AM

I think this would work. However, in my area it is impossible to find decent, flat 1/2” plywood.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1271 posts in 3221 days


#4 posted 02-28-2009 12:57 AM

I have done this several times. I had one project that I was working on and came across a nice 1/4 sheet of Red Oak Ply in the broken bin at the Borg, I just glued it to a piece of 1/2 ply used spring clamps on the edge put some support under the 1/2” ply and placed bricks at even intervals to insure there was enough weight pressing down on the Red Oak ply that it was even. Then cut it to size and it looked beautiful.

This project was the bin organizer from Wood magazine. I made it as a gift for someones new shop. He preceded to paint it all gray. I still cringe when I think about it.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View Julian's profile

Julian

880 posts in 2992 days


#5 posted 02-28-2009 01:30 AM

I just did this for the top and back of the mahogany dresser with secret compartment that I built a few months back. I used 1/4” mahogany ply backed with 1/2” baltic birch ply. If you want it flat, i would suggest using baltic birch ply also. I just made cauls out of 2x construction lumber and made sure to taper the last 10” or so of the ends 1/8” to make sure that the middle would get plenty of pressure while clamping.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

View cabinetmaster's profile

cabinetmaster

10874 posts in 3025 days


#6 posted 02-28-2009 02:51 AM

I agree with julian. Use 1/2” baltic birch for the best flatness. We use 1/4” plywood everyday for the finished ends of cabinets. We spray laminate glue on the 1/4” plywood and the 3/4” plywood, let them set for about 2 to 5 minutes and bond together. We then use a non-marring mallet and tap the pieces all over to get a tite bond. Be careful and get the pieces where you want them cause once they touch they are bonded, just like laying laminate on a sub-strate.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

View kiwi1969's profile

kiwi1969

609 posts in 2909 days


#7 posted 02-28-2009 03:10 AM

i,ve done with no problems.

-- if the hand is not working it is not a pure hand

View anotherbrick's profile

anotherbrick

73 posts in 3123 days


#8 posted 03-10-2009 12:09 PM

first,putty the uneven area to form a even surface
second,sand the surface you’re going to apply glue,then the glue will be easier to bond
third,use clamps and bricks to give it enough pressure,the more pressure the better,try to make sure the pressure on every area are the same.

-- china

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1878 posts in 3028 days


#9 posted 03-10-2009 12:56 PM

I’ve been told by several cabinet shops that the grain pattern matching, etc. on 1/4 inch plywood is better than that on 3/4 inch, so if that is true that is another reason to use it.

-- Joe

View Moron's profile

Moron

5032 posts in 3360 days


#10 posted 03-10-2009 01:38 PM

I laminate different thicknesses of plywood substrates all the time,

If you dont have contact cement then plain old white, yellow glue will work and if there is concern over proper glue coverage then use a paint roller to apply the glue. You can use paint cans, bricks, concrete block etc to apply pressure and by cutting the sheets into smaller parts (dont forget to cut them bigger then what you actually need) and glue them this way as its easier to handle

Good Luck

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View CraigFeuerzeig's profile

CraigFeuerzeig

5 posts in 2837 days


#11 posted 03-10-2009 01:55 PM

Curved cauls will make easy work of this.

-- Bowclamp "good caul"

View Sean Benetin's profile

Sean Benetin

7 posts in 2831 days


#12 posted 03-11-2009 01:36 AM

As long as the piece will be utilized in a way to keep it straight it will work fine. If this is “free floating” or not held rigidly in place it will bow. Laminations need to be made in odd layers 3,5,7, etc. which in turn equals even numbers of glue joints. This is what keeps panels flat (relatively) This is why all sheet goods come in odd numbered layers. When you glue together two sheets it equals and even number of layers and an odd number of glue joints. If you need the piece to remain flat on its own you will need a backer on the opposite side to balance the panel.

-- Fabricators of exquisite custom cabinetry and woodwork http://millworkandmore.com/

View TraumaJacques's profile

TraumaJacques

433 posts in 2967 days


#13 posted 03-12-2009 11:02 AM

Were you thinking of doing 4×8 sheets at a time or individual pieces? 4×8 without a vacume press would be a clamping nightmare.

-- All bleeding will eventually stop.

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