I need help with old fashioned wood box build

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Forum topic by CTW posted 12-29-2014 05:42 AM 1159 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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48 posts in 883 days

12-29-2014 05:42 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question tip trick tablesaw

I am trying to build some old fashioned rolling wood boxes for my husband to use under the workbench in his shop to store some of his heavier everyday things (cases of nails, fencing staples, chain saws, etc.) The boxes will have a 3/4” plywood floor and 1×6 sides. I want to cut 2×2’s on the diagonal for the inside corner supports, but I can’t figure out how to do it.

I don’t think I have the skill to rip them with a hand rip-saw and I can’t figure out how to cut them on the table saw. I am guessing I may need to build some sort of jig or sled. I am attaching some pictures; one is a picture off the internet of the corner support for the box that I am trying to create and one is the penciled cut that I need to rip. There is also a photo of some ideas I was playing with of how I might be able to support the 2×2.

Some advice would be greatly appreciated. I know this is simple, but it has me beat. By the way I have not yet ever built a jig or sled – which may be part of my problem.

Thanks, CTW

15 replies so far

View Rex B's profile

Rex B

320 posts in 1824 days

#1 posted 12-29-2014 05:48 AM

Tilt your table saw’s blade to 45 degrees. This is done using the large hand wheel on the side of the saw.

-- Rex

View TheFridge's profile


6542 posts in 1059 days

#2 posted 12-29-2014 05:54 AM

Use a wider board and alternate 45 and 90 cuts maybe?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View CTW's profile


48 posts in 883 days

#3 posted 12-29-2014 06:15 AM

Rex: I tried tilting the blade to a 45 degree angle, but how do I feed it? It has to cut from corner to corner and as far as I could tell, I would have to feed it exactly right or the cut wouldn’t be down the center. Also, I couldn’t figure out how to hold it. But I will look again in tomorrow in case I was just confusing myself.

TheFridge: I have to think about your answer, because I can’t picture what you mean. I think if I am out in the shop I could see things better and try to figure out what you are telling me.

Thanks, CTW

View jerryminer's profile


629 posts in 1014 days

#4 posted 12-29-2014 07:25 AM

Use a sacrificial guide board (like a 1×2 or a plywood strip) and double-stick tape it (or very carefully attach with screws or nails—-avoiding the cutline) as in this drawing:

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


4879 posts in 1772 days

#5 posted 12-29-2014 07:28 AM

I would add a sacrificial fence, tilt the blade to 45 and adjust so ithe blade comes out of the table/fence exactly at the corner. If you feel unconfortable making that kind of cut, there is one method I use that is similar to what TheFridge is talking about (I think!), but doesn’t even need the 90 degree cuts. Two opposing 45 degree cuts will get you the 90 degree corner in the process, and you can just rip the board like you normally would. The 1×6’s you are using could be used instead of the 2×2’s. The only drawback is that you have to readjust the fence for each cut. If you don’t have too many to make, that shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

Tilt the blade to 45 degrees.. make the first 45 cut off the end and toss it (or save it for a future project). Flip the wood over, adjust the fence and make the next 45 degree cut. Keep flipping, adjusting, cutting, flipping, adjusting, cutting [...] until you have enough braces.

Here is a quick drawing showing the cuts numbered in order:


(Jerry beat me to the punch on the sacrifical board!)

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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4879 posts in 1772 days

#6 posted 12-29-2014 07:42 AM

Forgot to mention.. I usually rip the boards using the fence so I wind up with a long strip.. that way I can cut the individual pieces off it to length ensuring they all have the same side dimensions. It could just as easily be done by starting with a board the correct width (whiich is the length you need for the final piece) and cross cutting with a miter gauge or sled. Either way will work, so it just comes down to what you feel most comfortable doing.

(In my case, my miter gauge is (was) a POS and extremely inaccurate.. think I tossed it out years ago and have no idea where it even is!)


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View runswithscissors's profile


2329 posts in 1598 days

#7 posted 12-29-2014 07:54 AM

Be sure you tilt the blade away from the fence, not toward it. You can determine where to cut by running the 2×2 just a little way into the blade (1/2 inch) to see how you line up, and adjust if necessary. The other ideas above also would work well.

Don’t over think this, it’s really quite easy. Be sure also to use a pushstick. No point in getting hurt.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View CTW's profile


48 posts in 883 days

#8 posted 12-29-2014 08:00 AM

Jerry, I like that idea. I tried looking it up on the internet and this was discussed, but my computer would not show the drawing so I was having trouble understanding how to do it. I am going to look at this and see if it will help.

I also like Mr. Unix’s idea, but I already have the 2×2’s so I may try the sacrificial fence first.

I really appreciate the help. At least I am beginning to learn how to use some of my tools (a little bit anyway).

View AlaskaGuy's profile


2469 posts in 1882 days

#9 posted 12-29-2014 08:16 AM

Use a wider board and alternate 45 and 90 cuts maybe?

- TheFridge

This is the safest for a beginner. And don’t stand directly behind the blade.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ChefHDAN's profile


858 posts in 2423 days

#10 posted 12-29-2014 03:07 PM

2 questions,

1) do you have a band saw?
2) If it’s for functional storage, why not make it all from 3/4 ply?

If you have a BS, you can make a 45* fence and rip the pieces pretty quickly and much more safely then the TS, even if it is a very nice SStop.

If you don’t have the BS, I’d really suggest making the entire build out of 3/4 ply and using a 1/4”x3/4” rabbet for the joints on the sides and bottom, it’ll be a much stronger carcass that will last a lifetime in the shop especially with the loading you’ve described.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Nubsnstubs's profile


911 posts in 1303 days

#11 posted 12-29-2014 03:13 PM

It’s really simple. If you have multiple boards you’re ripping, set up your angle as close to center as possible. Tilt your blade, and if it goes into the fence, set up the sacrificial board mentioned. Rip your first piece.

After it’s ripped, set the piece aside that was up against the fence, and slide the other piece up to the blade. If it’s big and needs to be cut, cut it. Do the same for the other pieces you need ripped. Now you have 2 pieces of wood cut on the same set up that should be the same size and angle.

If it’s larger, seperate if from the other piece. You could either do one of two things now. Reset your cut until you have two halves the same size?, leaving you with 2 pieces of wood that won’t be the same as the next pieces you are about to rip. Or finish ripping the other 2×2’s, carefully putting them in the proper stacks. When done making the first rips, readjust the saw to cut all the pieces to match up to the others that were cut on the first pass.

These corners you are making do not have to be a specific size. If you are a 32nd smaller or larger than the dimension called for, it’s not the end of the world.

I always cut anything like that twice. If I do need a specific size, then I can make the adjustments. Also, cross cut your stuff to a little longer than necessary, and then make your rips. It’s much easier on your saw, and your mental state, especially if your wood wants to bind between the fence and blade.

As stated earlier, use a push stick. This is the way I do it, but others have also given you good advice….... Jerry (in Tucson). .

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1102 days

#12 posted 12-29-2014 03:20 PM

Start with a 2×6 cut your 1st pc with the blade at a 45, Flip the board around and cut the opposite edge. Then set your blade at 90 and cut of the angle off, repeat on the opposite side. This gives you 4 pcs cut safely.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View CTW's profile


48 posts in 883 days

#13 posted 12-31-2014 07:45 PM

I wanted to thank everybody for their help. I would have posted sooner, but my husband and I are ranchers, so like many other people, we are not in full control of our schedules. We have gotten a cold snap so it may be a few days before I can get back to the shop (its heated but not insulated).

Also to ChefHDAN: Do you have a photo of the 45 degree fence for the bandsaw that you could share? I need all the help I can get.

Thanks everybody, and I will repost when I finally get this done.

View CTW's profile


48 posts in 883 days

#14 posted 01-08-2015 12:52 AM

It’s been awhile since I replied here but I wanted to let everyone know that it warmed up a bit so I was able to get out to the shop and I did manage to cut the 45 degree angle on the 2×2’s. I finally used the two-sided tape method as I already had started the cuts and didn’t have an appropriate wider board to make the 45’s from (as was also suggested).

Succeeding in his gave me enough confidence to set up a 0 clearance insert and things are beginning to progress. So if anybody sees this, Thank you for all your help, I would not have figured it out without your input.


View jerryminer's profile


629 posts in 1014 days

#15 posted 01-08-2015 12:57 AM

CTW—Thank you for the update. It’s always encouraging to hear that our advice actually helped. Best wishes on your future projects

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