Rich:
For years, including the 12 years I refinished professionally, I used mostly semi-gloss polyurethane, sprayed on. It was durable, buffed up to a wonderful lustre, and with Johnson's paste wax on top, made for a great household finish. We even did a few baby grand pianos in that finish when I refinished.
Then I discovered the power of lacquer and had a few mistakes, until I found Deft. It sprayed on well, had a reasonable cure time that allowed me to put on wet coats, shined up like glass, and I started to include that, although it is nowhere as durable. I added tints…
Now, building guitars, needing both shine and toughness, and not owning an oven that will let me do two part catalyst poly, I discovered Tru-Oil wipe on finish. It dries rather fast, (at least the first few coats), puts on a tough finish, and no spray gun needed. I can put on tinted dyes under it for bursts that I have to do, and it also takes well to most oil stains, once they are dry.
Truth be told, I have never done much with oils, like Tung, Danish and the others.
Different folks get used to a small package of finishes, and they usually run with them for years.
For me, sprayed on poly for toughness, sprayed on lacquer for shine and quickness, and Tru-Oil wipe on for high usage where a mirror finish is needed.
If you walk into any decent cabinet shop, you will find no more than one or two lines of finishes, and they are usually very, very good at those. I would choose something that you like, such as a semi-gloss poly, and start working with it, both brush and spray. Stick with name brands that are easily obtainable. For me, the boutique finishes that some guys swear by are great, but I have a hard time spending $50-75 a gallon for poly. Maybe if I was doing furniture that I intended to sell for thousands.
Buy some 0000 steel wool to buff it and feel free to experiment repolishing with Butchers, Johnson's, and other carnuba waxes that will give it a water proof edge.
Just my humble opinion…