|Forum topic by Todd||posted 12-24-2014 07:13 PM||917 views||0 times favorited||4 replies|
12-24-2014 07:13 PM
In reference to my bandsaw find in topic http://lumberjocks.com/topics/66160 I thought I would update everyone on how it is working out.
I still believe I got a really great deal at $275 for a barely used Craftsman 119224010 14” Bandsaw with a few extra blades. Here is what I encountered in setting up this saw for my own use.
1) I noticed that the blade tracked very nicely on the upper wheel but tracked right at the front edge of the lower wheel. I figured the lower wheel needed adjusting but before attempting any adjustments I removed all the bearings and checked them to make sure they were all in good shape. It turns out that the thrust bearings were forcing the blade outward, causing the blade to ride on the front of the lower wheel. Additionally the guide bearings were forcing the blade to the right. When I loosened all the bearings the blade started tracking perfectly on both wheels.
2) Once I had the bearings properly adjusted I noted the blade was not parallel to the guidepost, front to back or side to side. Perhaps the previous owner figured the bearings existed to make the blade parallel to the guidepost. On this model bandsaw adjusting the guidepost front to back is easy…loosen the four screws holding the guidepost tracks and adjust. However, there is NO WAY to adjust the guidepost side to side. Hmmmmm. This means that when the guidepost is raised and lowered the guide bearings need adjustment. I really don’t like the way this guidepost mechanism is designed for this saw. It seems cheap and sloppy. I think the BS350 and Rikon 10-321 use the same mechanism.
Anyhow, I decided I would remove the blade and upper wheel to see if there was something I was missing. Easy enough. Remove the snapring and the wheel comes right off. What I discovered was the four bolts holding the upper wheel assembly (axle and tension spring tilting mechanism) were not really tight. Furthermore I could actually adjust the assembly 1/8” further to the right. I did so and voila, the blade is within 1/16” parallel to the guidepost! Which means I will only have to make minor bearing adjustments if I move the post to its topmost position to make resaw cuts. For everything else no adjustment will be necessary.
I still don’t like the guidepost mechanism (primarily lack of adjustment) but once locked down it is pretty solid.
3) The table did not have much rust but did have some build up and stains on it. I used fine grit sandpaper and steel wool with mineral oil to clean it. I then wiped it with citrus cleaner and coated it with paste wax. It is almost like new.
I do not like the table adjustment. I used my Wixey digital angle gauge to adjust the table to 90 degrees. But the act of tightening it down moves it. It takes a little playing but you can get it adjusted. I don’t see it as a big problem because I will be making mostly 90 degree cuts.
4) I went ahead and ordered new guide and thrust bearings because they are inexpensive and the new ones are sealed.
5) Once everything was adjusted I changed blades because the blade in it had become warped because it had been sitting under stress due to the guide and thrust bearing settings. It cut really great! I used the fence to cut 1/8” cherry, walnut, and maple strips for cutting boards. No blade drift and it cut like butter. Dust collection worked great. I used a Rockler router table attachment and collected from both ports. Hardly any shavings escaped.
6) I like the cast iron wheels and closed base. I added a mobile base for easy movement (everything in my shop is on wheels). Once everything was adjusted the saw easily passed the nickel test.
All in all I’m happy with what I have. Attention to detail in adjustment is a requirement to get the most out of your bandsaw. I think the previous owner didn’t have a clue about proper adjustment, but then again he didn’t really use the saw. No harm done (except to the blade) as best I can tell.
-- Todd, Huntsville, AL