big problems with my ridgid jointer

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Forum topic by just1some1joe posted 02-22-2009 01:23 AM 8021 views 3 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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13 posts in 3404 days

02-22-2009 01:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer question

i have a ridgid jointer jp0610 that i have had for 4 years of good use . now it is putting a bubble in my stock , it is thicker in the middle than on the ends . and it appears that one end of the jointer has droped , the in feed or the out feed i am not sure. i have not done any thing to it besides move the in feed up and down . so to day i take it apart and clean the dove tail joints that allow it to slide up and down thinking there might be saw dust impacted in the top part of the joint but it dose no good . tried to shim the bottom end of the joint on the in and out feed tables to bring the ends up . no good ether i guess there is not enough play. i am about ready to sell it for scrap dose any one have any ideas.

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

13 replies so far

View bendisplays's profile


40 posts in 3423 days

#1 posted 02-22-2009 03:12 AM


This is a common problem with joiners and I would not get rid of your joiner because it is an adjustment issue not an overall functional issue with your joiner. What you are explaining is a adjustment issue with your outfeed table.

Now there are a couple of ways to adjust the outfeed table. Before I go on I will explain the basic mechanics of your joiner.

The infeed table is adjustable so you can make a variable depth of cut in your wood.
The wood is run through the knives which cut a selected depth out of your peice of wood.
Your outfeed table balances the part you’re joinering after it is cut.

If your outfeed table is too high, it will lift your part above the knives and will cut less in the middle of your part. If the outfeed table is way to high, then obviously your part is going to hit the lip of the outfeed table and stop.

Now if the outfeed table is too low, you will push your part and when you get to the end your part drops and the knives take divet out of what you are joinering.

Now here is how I adjust this:

I get a peice of plywood with at least about a 2 foot side (the longer the better).
Adjust your cut depth to a very small amount. (ie 1/64th or 1/32nd).
Take your plywood and run it through the joiner.
You can hear when the part is not being cut by the blade.
If it is not cutting the middle of your part, lower your outfeed table a very little.
Cut the side that you just joinered on your table saw with the factory side of the board against the fence ( if your table saw is out of adjustment and does not make a straight cut, this wont work.)
Run your peice back through the joiner
and keep repeating the steps until it cuts the middle.

If the joiner is putting a divet at the end then lower instead of raise your outfeed table.

Now most people will wonder why the outfeed table will go out when they havent touched it at all. The answer is the knives wear when they cut and over time they will be in a postion that is higher than the knives.
You can actually adjust until it cuts perfectly.

There are many ways to adjust your joiner and there are tools also. I do want to note that there is a unsafe way of adjusting your joiner from the outfeed table but I will not talk about this and I would not recomend doing this.

I hope this helps.



View just1some1joe's profile


13 posts in 3404 days

#2 posted 02-22-2009 06:19 PM

ben, first i have to say thanks. yesterday when i was work on my jointer for 4 hours i think i got to feeling like a bull in a bull fight and started to see the jointer as being red . this morning as i was talking to my wife who was very concerned cause it builds the furniture for our home i was thinking it might bee the out feed table being to high but i still could not under stand why it would have moved up it was still baffling me . so i thought it was just a way more serious problem. but when you talked about the blade wear it makes sense . i am going to give it a try this afternoon thanks.

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3421 days

#3 posted 02-22-2009 08:05 PM

I suspect that if you replace the knives, even just get them sharpened and re-install them right, your problems will be over. It would be very odd for one of your tables to droop all on their own. That usually comes from excessive use, carrying or dragging the jointer around by one of the tables or some other big outside error. If you are not familiar with setting up the knives or jointer, I have a few stories on my site with photos and video. (I can’t live without visual aides…..)

-- Tom Hintz,

View just1some1joe's profile


13 posts in 3404 days

#4 posted 02-23-2009 01:07 AM

it worked all i had to do was adjust the out feed table . it seems that my blades where worn down enough to cause my problem . i also think i should get some new blades or have them sharpened . thanks to all who commented .

i am back to work, yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

View clay's profile


1 post in 3181 days

#5 posted 10-02-2009 03:29 PM

I just joined this group and have read the posts about the problems with the ridgid jointer. Having the same issue. Understand the solution but not sure HOW to make the change. The book is not clear. Any detailed instructions would be appreciated.

thanks, clay

View 45acpbuilder's profile


49 posts in 3235 days

#6 posted 10-03-2009 11:10 AM

Clay, Joe, Outfeed table adjustment on jointers is THE fundamental accuracy issue with them. To get the best results, the knife edges and the outfeed table MUST be at the very same height. I use a FLAT aluminum bar about 8” long but you can use anything that you know is FLAT and STRAIGHT. I sanded my aluminum bar with 600 grit paper on a surface plate. Don’t rely on stock from HD or Lowe’s to be straight enough, it’s not. You can use a piece of glass with the surface covered in packing or masking tape placed VERY carefully, flat, no overlaps, and no bubbles. The goal here is to end up with an alignment bar with a perfectly flat and straight surface. Don’t use steel unless you put tape on it, it will nick your knives. Put the alignment bar on the outfeed table, making sure the table is clean, very clean. Place it so its end is over the knife edge. Rotate the cutter head slowly, looking for a very light “kiss” of the knife edge (work on one knife at a time) against the bottom of your alignment bar. They should touch, just barely, enough for you to feel it as you rotate the cutter head but not enough to actually grab the bar and move it. Adjust each knife on both ends, next to the fence and on the opposite end, away from the fence. You’re talking adjustments of sub-.001 here so patience and care are paramount. You’ll get cuts that are so flat and straight you’ll be amazed.

-- M1911BLDR

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

346 posts in 2485 days

#7 posted 04-16-2012 07:48 PM

My jointer had worked nicely for a long time, but I have this suspicion the outfeed table has sloped up a bit at the very left end, because as a board is about the clear the knives, the cut tapers off at the end and leave just a slight taper to the board. I moved the Jointer recently by myself, and it stuttered across the floor once, I am wondering if that threw it off a little, or caused the outfeed to go out of plane- it might be the infeed to, not sure.

I am going to grab a few framing squares after work to see if there is truly an issue with the tables being co-planer. The framing squares I bought a while back have some epoxy coating on them to mitigate rust, but it is bubbles ever so slightly and it makes the square inaccurate, just barely. Pretty dumb to coat those squares if you ask me, dumber for me to buy them and be too lazy to return them.

View Mike_P's profile


6 posts in 2135 days

#8 posted 08-10-2013 03:45 AM


Your’s is a great explanation – thanks.


View toolie's profile


2134 posts in 2651 days

#9 posted 08-10-2013 11:39 AM

Take your plywood and run it through the joiner.

while ben’s technique may be on target, his choice of materials, for anyone viewing this old thread, is suspect. according to mathias wandel, plywood’s glue is harder than the cellulose fibers that make up plywood and can damage jointer knives if run through a jointer on edge:

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2537 days

#10 posted 08-10-2013 11:45 AM

One other thing to remember, Ben is talking in thousandths, maybe even in tens of thousandths of an inch. Smaller adjustments are better. Gross adjustments lead to frustration.

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

View Bogeyguy's profile


548 posts in 2091 days

#11 posted 08-10-2013 12:30 PM

Toolie, there is a reason to use the plywood. The plywood edge being joined with not flex/bow like a piece of pine, poplar, etc may do when joining.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View toolie's profile


2134 posts in 2651 days

#12 posted 08-10-2013 01:31 PM

Toolie, there is a reason to use the plywood. The plywood edge being joined with not flex/bow like a piece of pine, poplar, etc may do when joining.

agreed. now how you reconcile the straightness of plywood on edge as a useful tool for setting up a jointer in the manner ben noted above with the damage that edge can do to the knives of a jointer, as mathias so elegantly pointed out?

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View fredj's profile


186 posts in 1840 days

#13 posted 08-10-2013 01:51 PM

If you google adjusting jointer knives you will find very good info for any make or model. The time spent adjusting machines is well spent. Tweaking a jointer can drive you crazy, at least for me, it’s a short trip.

-- Fredj

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