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big problems with my ridgid jointer

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Forum topic by just1some1joe posted 281 days ago 816 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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just1some1joe

13 posts in 281 days


281 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: jointer question

i have a ridgid jointer jp0610 that i have had for 4 years of good use . now it is putting a bubble in my stock , it is thicker in the middle than on the ends . and it appears that one end of the jointer has droped , the in feed or the out feed i am not sure. i have not done any thing to it besides move the in feed up and down . so to day i take it apart and clean the dove tail joints that allow it to slide up and down thinking there might be saw dust impacted in the top part of the joint but it dose no good . tried to shim the bottom end of the joint on the in and out feed tables to bring the ends up . no good ether i guess there is not enough play. i am about ready to sell it for scrap dose any one have any ideas.

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

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bendisplays

39 posts in 300 days


281 days ago

Just1some1joe,

This is a common problem with joiners and I would not get rid of your joiner because it is an adjustment issue not an overall functional issue with your joiner. What you are explaining is a adjustment issue with your outfeed table.

Now there are a couple of ways to adjust the outfeed table. Before I go on I will explain the basic mechanics of your joiner.

The infeed table is adjustable so you can make a variable depth of cut in your wood.
The wood is run through the knives which cut a selected depth out of your peice of wood.
Your outfeed table balances the part you’re joinering after it is cut.

If your outfeed table is too high, it will lift your part above the knives and will cut less in the middle of your part. If the outfeed table is way to high, then obviously your part is going to hit the lip of the outfeed table and stop.

Now if the outfeed table is too low, you will push your part and when you get to the end your part drops and the knives take divet out of what you are joinering.

Now here is how I adjust this:

I get a peice of plywood with at least about a 2 foot side (the longer the better).
Adjust your cut depth to a very small amount. (ie 1/64th or 1/32nd).
Take your plywood and run it through the joiner.
You can hear when the part is not being cut by the blade.
If it is not cutting the middle of your part, lower your outfeed table a very little.
Cut the side that you just joinered on your table saw with the factory side of the board against the fence ( if your table saw is out of adjustment and does not make a straight cut, this wont work.)
Run your peice back through the joiner
and keep repeating the steps until it cuts the middle.

If the joiner is putting a divet at the end then lower instead of raise your outfeed table.

Now most people will wonder why the outfeed table will go out when they havent touched it at all. The answer is the knives wear when they cut and over time they will be in a postion that is higher than the knives.
You can actually adjust until it cuts perfectly.

There are many ways to adjust your joiner and there are tools also. I do want to note that there is a unsafe way of adjusting your joiner from the outfeed table but I will not talk about this and I would not recomend doing this.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben

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just1some1joe

13 posts in 281 days


280 days ago

ben, first i have to say thanks. yesterday when i was work on my jointer for 4 hours i think i got to feeling like a bull in a bull fight and started to see the jointer as being red . this morning as i was talking to my wife who was very concerned cause it builds the furniture for our home i was thinking it might bee the out feed table being to high but i still could not under stand why it would have moved up it was still baffling me . so i thought it was just a way more serious problem. but when you talked about the blade wear it makes sense . i am going to give it a try this afternoon thanks.

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

View TomHintz's profile

TomHintz

83 posts in 298 days


280 days ago

I suspect that if you replace the knives, even just get them sharpened and re-install them right, your problems will be over. It would be very odd for one of your tables to droop all on their own. That usually comes from excessive use, carrying or dragging the jointer around by one of the tables or some other big outside error. If you are not familiar with setting up the knives or jointer, I have a few stories on my site with photos and video. (I can’t live without visual aides…..)

-- Tom Hintz, www.newwoodworker.com

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just1some1joe

13 posts in 281 days


280 days ago

it worked all i had to do was adjust the out feed table . it seems that my blades where worn down enough to cause my problem . i also think i should get some new blades or have them sharpened . thanks to all who commented .

i am back to work, yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- i love to work ,the only time i sit sitll is with a beer in hand

View clay's profile

clay

1 post in 58 days


58 days ago

Gentlemen,
I just joined this group and have read the posts about the problems with the ridgid jointer. Having the same issue. Understand the solution but not sure HOW to make the change. The book is not clear. Any detailed instructions would be appreciated.

thanks, clay

View 45acpbuilder's profile

45acpbuilder

49 posts in 112 days


57 days ago

Clay, Joe, Outfeed table adjustment on jointers is THE fundamental accuracy issue with them. To get the best results, the knife edges and the outfeed table MUST be at the very same height. I use a FLAT aluminum bar about 8” long but you can use anything that you know is FLAT and STRAIGHT. I sanded my aluminum bar with 600 grit paper on a surface plate. Don’t rely on stock from HD or Lowe’s to be straight enough, it’s not. You can use a piece of glass with the surface covered in packing or masking tape placed VERY carefully, flat, no overlaps, and no bubbles. The goal here is to end up with an alignment bar with a perfectly flat and straight surface. Don’t use steel unless you put tape on it, it will nick your knives. Put the alignment bar on the outfeed table, making sure the table is clean, very clean. Place it so its end is over the knife edge. Rotate the cutter head slowly, looking for a very light “kiss” of the knife edge (work on one knife at a time) against the bottom of your alignment bar. They should touch, just barely, enough for you to feel it as you rotate the cutter head but not enough to actually grab the bar and move it. Adjust each knife on both ends, next to the fence and on the opposite end, away from the fence. You’re talking adjustments of sub-.001 here so patience and care are paramount. You’ll get cuts that are so flat and straight you’ll be amazed.

-- M1911BLDR

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