LumberJocks

drive belts for Unisaw

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by mzimmers posted 12-21-2014 05:41 PM 1246 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


12-21-2014 05:41 PM

Topic tags/keywords: link drive belt unisaw

anyone have any recommended sources? I could get them from Delta, but I’m a little hacked off at their customer service right now.

I don’t want to start a thread on linked belts, since they’ve been covered so much elsewhere, but if I were to go that route, how much length would I have to order? This is for a 7-year-old Unisaw.

Anyway, I welcome any recommendations.

-- M. Zimmers


16 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7171 posts in 2038 days


#1 posted 12-21-2014 05:50 PM

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#2 posted 12-21-2014 05:55 PM

thanks. Is 5’ enough to replace all three belts? Sounds kind of short.

-- M. Zimmers

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7171 posts in 2038 days


#3 posted 12-21-2014 05:56 PM

I don’t know as a Unisaw isn’t in my shop.

I’d take a string and measure against a belt and order accordingly.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3928 posts in 1954 days


#4 posted 12-21-2014 06:10 PM

I’d just get cogged V belts, preferably Goodyear. The size is AX 24, those have an outside length of 26” if you still want the link belts. At least that’s what my 2001 Unisaw takes. Good choice on ignoring Delta’s CS, that’s what they seem to be doing to us customers.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#5 posted 12-21-2014 06:18 PM

Thanks, Fred. If I get the cogged V belts, do I need a matched set like I (supposedly) do with the conventional belts?

-- M. Zimmers

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3666 posts in 1181 days


#6 posted 12-21-2014 06:20 PM

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#7 posted 12-21-2014 06:43 PM

Those look good Yeti. So, no concern about them having to match?

-- M. Zimmers

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3666 posts in 1181 days


#8 posted 12-21-2014 06:51 PM

Quality belts are typically made to tight enough tolerances to negate the need for a “matched” set. This has been my experience. Goodyear and Gates as well as a few others can be reliably expected to be very close to each other. Working as a millwright in a recycling facility we had several machine ranging from tens to hundreds of horsepower using multiple belt drives and I never had a problem with goodyear AX, BX and CX belts even with 14 of them carrying 500hp.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3928 posts in 1954 days


#9 posted 12-21-2014 07:41 PM

No, they don’t have to be matched (as bigblockyeti explained).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#10 posted 12-21-2014 11:09 PM

OK, thanks, guys. I’ve got three on order from the big A…

-- M. Zimmers

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#11 posted 12-25-2014 12:27 AM

Update: they came today, and they’re installed. Installation was a bit of a pain, though I could have made it somewhat easier by reading the directions more carefully the first time (you’d really think at my age I’d have learned to do that by now)...oh well.

Unfortunately, it didn’t seem to remove the “clunk” at motor startup as I’d hoped. The tension seems to be right (maybe a tiny little bit loose, but I’m out of adjustment room), so I don’t think the belts were the cause. Oh well, still a worthwhile experience.

Thanks again to those who advised on this.

-- M. Zimmers

View wbrisett's profile

wbrisett

201 posts in 1809 days


#12 posted 12-25-2014 12:44 PM

My 10 year old unisaw also makes that “clunk” sound at times. I’ve never been able to track down what causes it. It doesn’t happen every time, but often enough that I’ve wanted to figure out what it is and rectify it, but thus far haven’t been able to do that. If you ever figure it out (or if anybody else knows), I’d be curious to know how you fixed it.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3928 posts in 1954 days


#13 posted 12-25-2014 12:49 PM

Sorry, I didn’t realize you were chasing a clunk. Check here, down the page 7-8 questions and see if their advice helps.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View wbrisett's profile

wbrisett

201 posts in 1809 days


#14 posted 12-25-2014 12:53 PM

Thanks Fred! I’ll have to look at that, I did check the belts, but not the stop collar.

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#15 posted 12-25-2014 03:41 PM

Hey, Fred – I’d already seen that article, and checked the stop collar.

The pulley screws are a bit of a mystery to me. While I had the belts off, I tried to check the screws, but couldn’t find them. I did find some holes where screws might go (though I couldn’t tell whether they were threaded or not), but there were 4 of these (2 each on the first and third pulleys). I don’t think these are screw holes, though, and it’s kind of hard to believe that I’d be missing all 4 on a 7 year old saw that’s seen little use.

Anyway, the clunk is annoying (and causes me to flunk the nickel test) but not a showstopper; the saw still works fine. I think I’ll consider finding the cause to be a background task from here on out.

-- M. Zimmers

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com