I have an old Stanley sweetheart try square that is 1/16th out of square (i.e., I make a line with a knife, flip the square over and the line is 1/16th away from the base of the square when the end of the line is directly at the tip of the square).
I think a tri square would be more difficult to true up than a framing square. Contact Stanley and ask them. It might be better to hang it on the wall and buy a new one if you can't do it yourself. I really don't know the tricks on a tri
I bought a new, certified engineers square that only gets used to check other squares. One of these days I'll set up to true the bunch of not-quite-square combination heads that I've accumulated over the yesrs….
You can use a machinist square, some high spot blue, and an old file sharpened properly to scrape it in after removing most of the waste with the file part of the file.
Google hand scraping. The info is out there. It's possible.
I've done it many times. I have a carbide tipped steel cutting blade on my table saw. Not to be confused with those other steel cutting blades which give off lots of sparks. This type of blade gives off pretty much no sparks. I set the miter gauge to 90° and trim the outside edge of the square to 90° and then set the reference to make the other edge parallel. A little filing and I'm done. The dimple method is for framing type squares and will not work on other types of squares.
You can use a machinist square, some high spot blue, and an old file sharpened properly to scrape it in after removing most of the waste with the file part of the file.
Google hand scraping. The info is out there. It s possible.
Scraping in? I know many modern day machine shop folks unfamiliar with the term. I guess with the ubiquity of CNC, it may be a lost art, except for equipment that can't fit into the box. I've leveled and/or aligned some large machinery, such as US Navy turbines to reduction gears, and turbine shaft bearings. Prussian blue, I haven't used since I got out of the US Navy in '76, except for marking metal.
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