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A router for the Leigh Dovetail jig - advice appreciated.

10K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  bluekingfisher 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a rudimentary grasp of the router, however, and although I own a few, I have never utilised their range or expanded beyond the relative basics. Why? I don't know, I suppose because I have often found a way of getting the job done without the mess, noise and fuss associated with setting up a router.

Having purchased a Leigh dovetail jig a couple of years ago I have been thinking about pulling it from the box and making some router cut dovetails.

I know there are some great routing aficianados in LJ land so I am hoping some one can point me in the right direction??

The Leigh jig makes use of 8mm cutters, and although most 1/2" routers come supplied with the additional 8 mm collet to fit the smaller cutters the router itself can be a fairly weighty machine, which may be difficult to control when edge routing or when working on a dovetail jig

So, my question, or questions are as follows -

Is there a preferred router for use on dovetail jigs? would a mid size 1/2" router due to its smaller mass be more effective, comparative to its lesser power output. If so, which models are recommended?

Is a plunge or fixed base router more suited to this procedure?

Alternatively, should a dedicated 8mm router be considered?

Is a variable speed control necessary for this particular operation?

Dust control - The jig is supplied with vacum attachement, will this be enough to deal with chips and dust. Is a vac attachment for the router required, or is the additional hose to the router just an obstruction.

Sub base - The bushing supplied with the jig may only fit specific routers, will I have to consider the additional expense of a sub base?

Quite a few questions there guys and gals I know but if anyone would like to take the time to share their experiences or advice then it would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance

David
 
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#2 ·
Not really a router guru, but I have been using the Leigh super 24 for a long time now. I have a craftsman Router, not sure what model but it is a full sized one that accepts the 1/2 collets. Keep in mind that when using the DT jig one has to make one pass, you can't nibble away at the tails. So you need something powerful enough to eat through the 1/2 stock you will probably be using. One goes into the stock unobstructed by anything, simply glide in between the jig fingers, a plunge base in not required. Once the correct depth is set do not change it until you are finished.
I think the jig itself is more likely to challenge you than a router choice. Read the directions carefully and watch the DVD. When they say make small adjustments they mean just that SMALL adjustments. Too aggressive on the adjustments send your dovetails from "they need a minor tweak" to "Holy crap they are waaaay to lose"
Here are my top few "learning moments" with the DT jig.
1) follow the directions to the letter
2) be patient especially in terms of feed rate, very easy to tear out some stock. This makes really crappy looking dove tails.
3) cut all the tails first, then cut all the pins. make the pins too tight at first, you can always trim some away, but you can't add material to make up space

My .02
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use a Porter Cable 2 1/2 HP fixed base router because that's what I have around for it. I have smaller routers but they don't have 1/2 collets like you said and I find bigger ones or even the plunge base on the Porter Cable to get uncomfortable and tippy even with the dust attachment on the jig. If I could get a 8mm collet for my Dewalt compact router I would use that with the fixed base in a heart beat but I have not seen one.

I see Dewalt does sell the 8mm version of the router in Erupoe but I can't find the collect only at least not in my 2 minute search.
 
#4 ·
Hoosier & Richard - thanks fellas for the input, much appreciated.

I need to have a look at the jig and take the time to set it up. However, as with the router fiddling and fudging around really puts the bite on me lol. That said, once the basic technique is mastered I'm sure if will become an enjoyable experience.

Thanks again gents for sharing your tips and experience with the Leigh jig.

David
 
#6 ·
I like fixed base routers best for cutting dovetails. I have tried Freud, Porter Cable and Dewalt with a jig. I really like the Dewalt 618 best for cutting dovetails because it sits very low and feels stable. I would look for a dedicated 8mm collet, as opposed to a 8mm sleeve that fits in a 1/2" collet.

My favorite joint to cut is a half blind dovetail. I cut it in two passes. One router I set up with a spiral bit, and hog out most of the waste. Another router has the dovetail bit, and completes the cut. That way the dovetail bit doesn't overheat or get jumpy.
The single best tip I can give you is to lubricate the fingers of the jig and your router base plate with a dry lube such as Bostik Top Coat. I didn't realize how much friction there was between the router and the jig. Eliminating that friction makes the cuts easier to make and more accurate.
 
#8 ·
Been using mine for a long time. I reccomend two routers to make your life easy. Use one for the tails and one for the pins. Once you get your setup, you can fly through the cuts. I use a PC690 and festool of1500. Try to avoid heavy units. I have a PC890 that is top heavy and don't prefer to use it.

Once you get the hang of it, it's a snap.
 
#10 ·
I have quite a few routers, 3 of them are Hitachi M12VC. They are my favorite to use, and if you look at
Big Sky Tools you will find that they have them on sale right now. If you don't mind re-manufactured tools
they have them in grade C for $72.00 or grade A for $85.00.
I like to get my router set for my Leigh DT jig and leave it set up unless I have to use the router the bit is in.
If you have the vac attachment that sets at the front of the jig it will handle the chips and dust pretty well.
I actually have to set mine up in the next couple days to do 6 drawer boxes. I have never used all the features
mainly the 1 pass 1/2 blind DT. I may get adventurous and do the 2 pass through DT set up like the hand cut ones.

If I can help you at all with the process don't hesitate to contact me.

Merry Christmas and have a blessed evening, Todd
 
#11 ·
Hey Amigo,

Sorry, but I can't help you any…I've never cut a dovetail joint, but I've got a dovetail jig….I bought one from MLCS about 6-7 years ago, and it's still new in the box. I couldn't tell you how to set it up to use…I thought I might be using it, but I use more box joints when I make personal projects, and that's not very often…..So….I guess i should sell it for all the good it's doing me…..I have the right routers, just not the desire to use dovetails.
 
#12 ·
Fellas - thanks very much for taking the time to respond.

Thee are a lot of interesting tips and hints submitted, I will investigate further.

I may have to get back to some of you again, however the battery on my ipad is about to die, so until recharged, thanks very much, greatly appreciated.

David.
 
#13 ·
I have no answers for you David, but, I will be following along. I purchased a Vermont America dovetail jig for a super good price about 2 years ago, and, I'm embarrassed to say, I haven't used it yet. 2015 sounds like a good year to cut some dovetails.
 
#14 ·
Roger, like you I am a tad embarassed, I have had my Leigh jig for a couple of years at least and still in the packaging.

I hope you are right about 2015, a new skill to be learned I think.

Rick, I heard those antique MLCS jigs fetch a fortune at auction lol
 
#15 ·
My biggest problem with using the Leigh jig is setting up the router bit depth adjustment. You need to add 0.45" to the width of your stock if not setting to a scribed baseline. On my PC 690 (two wrench deal) the bit needs to be held up in the air to get the necessary depth which requires 3 hands. I finally gave up and bought a plunge router with adjustable turret stops (Festool OF-1400). Life is much easier now.

IMO, the VRS attachment is worth it. It helps to keep the router level which avoids cutting lower than the baseline. The VRS attachment helps but cannot be relied upon as an immovable router support - you need to check it often. With the VRS, I'm no longer buried in dust & chips. For through cuts, make sure there is a fresh backer (MDF) for every new corner. Make sure your bits are SHARP. If you go by the book (making sure that the proper face is facing out), your pins will start out ever so slightly fat. A slight adjustment should get them dialed in. Then go ahead and cut everything and glue it up before your panels warp.

Make yourself a "cheatsheet" for each type of corner; i.e., through, half blind, etc. It will help you remember the trials you went through. If you update it with how you overcame the challenges of each project, you will soon have a foolproof way to DT corners.
 
#16 ·
+1 on the VRS. I would say it is almost a necessity. As far as routers I think the Hitachi M12VC is a good choice. I tried my Bosch, but didn't like the guides as they are shorter than the PC style. I don't have a PC or Dewalt to compare. i also use my Freud, but it is a bit larger, however the on/off is nice to use with the jig.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Not to be left out, I'll add my two cents regarding the use of the Leigh dovetail jig. I've had mine and used it since the mid-90s. Although I have a number of routers and even bought two (2) Festool OF 1400 EQs for use with the Leigh jig, I prefer my two Bosh 1617EVSs. My preference is based on the manner of control for the depth adjustment, soft start/variable speed and primarily the ability to center the bit in the guide (something you cannot do with the OF 1400 EQ). Two dedicated routers are far more convenient when cutting through dovetails, and I tend to just leave these set up all the time as I use them for making dovetail drawer sides using Baltic birch.

Although the basic concept is pretty straight forward, I found the actual learning curve to be a lot steeper. Read, re-read and keep the manual/DVD handy; and, pay particular attention to the hints and suggestions. I finally used front and back sacrificial 1/4" Baltic birch pieces to cut the dovetails in the sides, front and back of drawers to eliminate blow out-it actually works great and the best method I've found to handle the blow out problem.

I originally bought the Leigh router bit set in 8mm and 1/2" shanks; however, I've since gone to Whiteside dovetail bits and Onstrud solid carbide, up cut, spiral bits. Try to stay with either 8mm or 1/2" shanks, whichever you can get in the larger size.

The router guide that came with my Leigh jig was the PorterCable universal fitting, and you can get this universal bushing to fit the Bosch 1617 EVS, as well as 8mm collets for that router. I've read a lot of complaints about Bosch, but I'm finding just as many about Porter Cable, DeWalt and Milwaukee lately, so it boils down to "pay your money and take your chances" in today world of manufacturing for economic obsolescence.

Regarding dust control: You indicate that you have the vacuum attachment, but don't specify which one. The original dust attachment for Leigh was a unit that fit on the router below the plate and was mounted on a spring so as to catch the dust as it was cut. The current dust collection is far superior and provides an adjustable router support rail in front of the fingers that provides added support for the router base to move ( http://www.leighjigs.com/vrs.php ). This current dust collection system works fairly well, but I use two dust collectors: one for the Leigh unit as it rides under the support rail; and, a second unit directly for the router (Bosch does make a dust collection system for the 1617EVS and I strongly recommend it).

One more experience I'd share is to be sure to release all tension on all parts after each session. Many parts, particularly the fingers, are made from pot metal and distort under continuous pressure.

Finally, I would observe that the new model fingers (having a double wedge locking system) are far superior to the original and older model styles (having a single wedge system), and highly recommend you consider obtaining a second set for an additional bar (about $109 for 13 sets of fingers from Leigh, http://www.leighjigs.com/upgrades.php )

Hopefully this provides some more food for thought, but if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to PM me, and I'll be glad to share any experience I might have.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thank you, Roger. Like I said to David, if you or any LJ have any questions, PM me and if I have any experience with it I'll be more than happy to help.

P.S. I'm not claiming to be an expert but I've played around with Leigh for 15+ years and dovetail jigs back into the 80s.
 
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