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Minwax Polycrylic

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Forum topic by Jen72 posted 12-15-2014 03:33 AM 988 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jen72

4 posts in 721 days


12-15-2014 03:33 AM

I have painted my kitchen cabinets. I wanted a flat look to them so I used a primer and flat based paint. Over time the paint chipped and peeled so I had to sand, re-prime, re-paint and seal. I tried to find a flat based sealant but could not find one. I wound up using Minwax Polycrylic to seal them. I have done my cabinets in stages. During my current stage I finished the back side of some cabinet doors. I flipped them over to do the front side, primed and painted them and decided to hang them to finish the poly portion while they were hung. They are up against the base of the cabinet that has already had all coats done and several weeks dried already. I have two coats of poly on the doors and up against the base the doors look very flat and the base and all other cabinets, doors and drawers are glossy. The new doors are dry to the touch but not cured even a couple of hours yet. Will they get glossier over time? I guess I’ll find out in the morning but wondered if I could get any feedback sooner.


14 replies so far

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firefighterontheside

13458 posts in 1318 days


#1 posted 12-15-2014 03:43 AM

I doubt the gloss will change hours later. That stuff dries pretty quick. You can buff them with a buffing pad or something else and make them shine a bit. What sheen did you use?

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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Jen72

4 posts in 721 days


#2 posted 12-15-2014 04:33 AM

I used clear satin. It was the flattest finish I could find. I used the same gallon from the beginning to the end. In going over my whole process again I’m thinking that I may not have stirred the gallon towards the end. Thinking the flat portion of the stain fell to the bottom ???? I DO NOT want a shiny finish and would rather have it dull. Do you know of any sealant I could buy that will give me the protection I need without the shine?

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Jen72

4 posts in 721 days


#3 posted 12-15-2014 04:35 AM

And yeah the sheen is not changing.

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InstantSiv

259 posts in 1057 days


#4 posted 12-15-2014 04:36 AM

Most likely not. I’ve put gloss polycrylic on top of semi-gloss and it came out fine.

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Jen72

4 posts in 721 days


#5 posted 12-15-2014 04:52 AM

Thanks anyway.

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Purrmaster

914 posts in 1555 days


#6 posted 12-15-2014 02:27 PM

The sheen won’t change once it’s dry to the touch. You may be very correct about not stirring the can. Often the “flattening agent” is something like talcum powder. Which will settle to the bottom.

If you need to strip and sand the stuff at least sands off fairly easily.

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BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1831 days


#7 posted 12-15-2014 02:53 PM

Once it’s all cured, you can use steel wool and paste wax to even out the sheen on the differing pieces. I’ve used steel wool & wax on polycrylic and it will leave a nice satin finish. If it’s too satin for you, you can buff it out more.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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Hammerthumb

2532 posts in 1437 days


#8 posted 12-15-2014 04:14 PM

You are correct that the flattening agents have settled to the bottom. You could apply another coat. Make sure to stir it first.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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firefighterontheside

13458 posts in 1318 days


#9 posted 12-15-2014 04:29 PM

Yes, just stir it up real good and do another coat. That should put the satin back into it.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#10 posted 12-15-2014 04:41 PM

Sorry Ed
But I would not use steel wool on water base finishes if you need to re-coat tons of little rust spot will be in your top coat. I agree with stirring well and trying a re-coat. If that doesn’t work then do a quick light sanding with 400-600 grit,that will knock you sheen down,this should only take a short time because your only sanding almost as if your wiping dust off your cabinet.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1831 days


#11 posted 12-15-2014 05:04 PM

Jim, I agree, I wouldn’t do it unless it was my final coat, and it had cured.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#12 posted 12-15-2014 05:20 PM

Ed
I guess I’m an over kill kind of guy when it comes to this subject .I would never use steel wool on water base finishes period,because you never know if you will need to touch up the finish and sand paper or Synthetic Steel Wool works just as well.

http://www.amazon.com/10118-Synthetic-Steel-Wool-Fine/dp/B00004Z4AC/ref=pd_sim_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XWC3HB95S8MJ9RW66VF

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1831 days


#13 posted 12-15-2014 05:30 PM

Thanks for the link, Jim, I didn’t know they made such a thing. The 0000 synthetic wool package says it doesn’t shred or splinter. Have you used it much, and if so, is this true? The only annoying thing to me about actual steel wool is the shredding/splintering.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#14 posted 12-15-2014 05:38 PM

Yes Ed I’ve used it,it works fine much better than steel wool because of the shredding aspect and it does not leave steel particles on water born finishes. For the most part I think I prefer sand paper over steel or synthetic wool,but if you prefer steel wool then synthetic is a good alternative .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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