Best to apply Titebond glue to a large area?

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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 12-14-2014 07:25 PM 3245 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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349 posts in 1585 days

12-14-2014 07:25 PM

I glued some 2×3s together lengthwise and had to apply a lot of glue so I used a foam brush.
Ended up with way too much squeeze out and the foam brush soaked up a lot glue.
Is there a better way to apply the glue? Would a small roller be good?
This time I am heating it in some hot water so I can get a thinner coat.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

34 replies so far

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1733 days

#1 posted 12-14-2014 07:36 PM

I pour it on and used a notched trowel to spread it around. Start in the center with a little to see how it’s covering then add as needed to get it all the way to the edges.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View jerryminer's profile


944 posts in 1645 days

#2 posted 12-14-2014 07:45 PM

I get good results with a small “disposable” paint roller. I pre-load the roller with glue so it doesn’t soak up any more. Afterward, I wash out the roller and use it again.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Bogeyguy's profile


548 posts in 2272 days

#3 posted 12-14-2014 08:05 PM

Old paint brush, you can thin the glue some also with h2O.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

347 posts in 2666 days

#4 posted 12-14-2014 08:09 PM

I use old credit cards. Easy to spread, and easy to skim some off if it’s too much

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 3175 days

#5 posted 12-14-2014 08:12 PM

I use old credit cards for glue spreaders..
You can make your own notches with tin snips.

View Rob's profile


704 posts in 3275 days

#6 posted 12-14-2014 09:22 PM

I think Rockler sells a glue roller kit which has hard rollers instead of porous foam rollers. I would think any hard roller would work. I just use one of those silicone brushes, but I like the credit card and trowel ideas too.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View a1Jim's profile


117340 posts in 3781 days

#7 posted 12-14-2014 09:30 PM

Pour some glue on the surface and then use a scrap piece of Formica or a bondo spreader to spread evenly over the surface.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View timbertailor's profile


1594 posts in 1628 days

#8 posted 12-15-2014 12:45 AM

Rockler sells these. Works great.

-- Brad, Texas,

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1317 posts in 2139 days

#9 posted 12-15-2014 12:56 AM

A flat scrap is what I use. Anything in the trash with a straight edge works.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View paxorion's profile


1107 posts in 2249 days

#10 posted 12-15-2014 01:22 AM

Rockler sells these. Works great.

- timbertailor

That’s what I use. I also use thin strips of wood when the workpiece is wider.

-- paxorion

View Joel_B's profile


349 posts in 1585 days

#11 posted 12-15-2014 06:23 AM

Tried the credit card. Worked pretty good and didn’t waste much glue.
Also but blue tape along the edges and hardly got any glue on the surface.
Only problem was I didn’t notice one piece was not aligned when I clamped it.
Now I get some practice with the hand plane.
Good thing its only a router stand and cheap DF.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View AlaskaGuy's profile


4812 posts in 2513 days

#12 posted 12-15-2014 06:39 AM

These work well. Can be had in many sizes.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View macatlin1's profile


78 posts in 3147 days

#13 posted 12-15-2014 02:36 PM

I used a foam roller and carefully washed out the glue (lots of glue) then one day I forgot and left the foam roller out and the glue dried. I decided to try it anyway and found out the hardened foam acted like a hard rubber roller. Worked great! And I could easily control how much glue I applied.

The trick I found to making a round roller is to store the wet foam roller with the shaft vertical so the glue runs to the end and doesn’t make a lump or flat spot on one side.

The above desktop shows just how many pieces I had to glue together!

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1733 days

#14 posted 12-15-2014 02:45 PM

Glad the notched trowel worked out for you.
I usually make mine about 6” wide out of a scrap pc of laminate. I cut the notches on my bandsaw usually leaving about an 1/8 in between notches. Height of the notch and spacing of notches is experimental depending what your glueing and how much glue you want on it.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11072 posts in 3632 days

#15 posted 12-15-2014 03:08 PM

Borrow your wife’s pinking shears and cut those credit card edges. Just don’t tell her.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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